petego4it Loc: NY

I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Generally speaking, a high shutter speed will negate the effect of slight camera movement. The "rule" is to use a shutter speed related to the focal length you're shooting. If you're shooting at 350 mm, you should use at least 1/350 sec, etc. I try to lean up against something whenever I take a picture, regardless of shutter speed. If there's no leaning post available, I get into a tight shooting stance and exhale. I've seen recommendations to use the stance a rifleman would use, too.

As for the tripod, you really it's better than hand-holding (turn off lens stabilization), especially if you lock the mirror up and use a remote or a timer.

http://digital-photography-school.com/remote-shutter-vs-delayed-shutter/

JPL

The reason for using tripod for sharp photos is simply that it is the best tool to ensure sharp photos. You can of course raise the ISO and use larger aperture and higher shutter speed. Also you can use in camera stabilizing or optical stabilizing or turn on more lights or wait until you have more light or sharpen your photos in post processing. All this will help you get sharper photos, but still the tripod is the best tool for it.

dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl

Jerry pretty well covered the info on shutter speed vs f/stop. Keep in mind that if you open up you f/stop (go to a lower number say f/1.2 up to f/5.6) you are making your depth of field smaller (very small at f/1.2 to f/2 or so) so you need to keep in mind the trade off of depth of field in focus to your shot. If you can use flash or in other ways add light intensity to the shot (reflectors, slower shutter speed, etc.) with out ruining the shot, you might be better off. As an example, a 50mm f/1.4 lens (I often use this for portraits on a crop sensor camera giving it an angle of view similar to a 75mm lens on a 35mm (non-crop sensor) camera, my depth of field can be as narrow as 1 inch. This means that if I don't pay attention to what I am doing, I will end up with a portrait that only the nose is in focus in. I am not saying that opening up the f/stop to use a higher shutter speed is bad, just that you need to be aware of the consequences of doing it and be aware of the other options. Sometimes, you are better off to use the slower shutter speed and higher f/stop or to find ways to add light rather than open the f/stop.

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

There are millions of examples of sharp photos taken without a tripod on the internet, I have at least 20,000 in my archives alone. A tripod is an excellent tool to use, but to suggest a tripod is the only way to accomplish a sharp photo is absolutely false...........

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Let me see if I can put some order to your question and concerns although I am sure that many other members will participate in this discussion with very interesting comments.
Yes, if you play with aperture and ISO you can reach high shutter speeds easily. Such high shutter speeds do not require the use of VR or a tripod since they can control slight movements of the hands.
Using a tripod is a totally different story. Although a tripod has been used to keep the camera on a steady platform especially at low shutter speeds it is also indispensable when it comes to composition. I have always said that a tripod is not an accessory but a necessity.
Even with my VR lenses and whenever I can I use a tripod in my photography.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Another reason for "not sharp," which I don't think was mentioned, is atmosphere. If you are shooting in high humidity or in haze to distant viewpoints, or across a road from which heat is rising, all will affect.

I'm concerned with your comment about "juggling" aperture and ISO, though. Yours is not the first mention of this way of setting exposure, and it always seems backwards to me - lol.

If shutter speed is of most importance, use shutter priority or manual mode. If depth of field is of most importance, use aperture priority or manual mode. If you want to set both, like I do (reason below*) and are in frequently changing light, set aperture and shutter, but use auto ISO.

Seems so much simpler to my mind than juggling!

*I always set a minimum shutter speed, based on focal length as Jerry mentioned, because I tend to sway (and don't use a tripod). I always set my aperture because I want depth of field in my control (more for landscapes, less for close-ups). And auto ISO for the reason mentioned above.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

You have already received lots of good advice, but I don't see an important fact from you that should have impacted the entire discussion: Do you have Image Stabilization available to you? Even the least capable IS / VR / SR system available today "buys" at least three-stops of stability; so if you needed 1/500 without IS, you should be able to go to something like 1/180 with IS. Perhaps your definition is different than mine, but I can't imagine needing a shutter speed greater than 1/2f, where f is the "35mm equivalent focal length" to photograph a basically still object.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

False
Maybe with a wide angle lens but some of the longer lenses need to be pretty still especially with LOTS of mp which is getting very common in today's cameras!!
SS

parenta

lots of gray areas...What is the subject? What is the lens, ISO...For long lenses fast moving objects yes...sports, birding etc. In these situations though, the tripod may be cumbersome so do so testing to see what movements your are comfortable in using the tripod. Try a monopod instead. A Gimbal head is best for long lenses. Handheld/long lenses you need to be steady and press the trigger smoothly and watch how much whipping and jerky movement you make finding your subject. I shoot a lot of sports and birds so I use a 300mm + lens and no tripod for tracking moving birds, perched birds, nesting birds I use a tripod. Sports a monopod depending on lighting (day games vs. night games) and fatigue holding a long lens for hours.

Landscapes I always try to use a tripod and a remote trigger when I can to eliminate and movement and maximize focus. In those situations I generally don't need the fast shutter speed unless there are fast moving objects in the frame (a speed boat tracking through the frame).

The rule of thumb to remember is to always set the shutter speed to at least equal that of the focal length (300mm lens / shutter speed 1/300th or higher).

I hope some of this helps.

Don Parenta
www.photographybydonparenta.com

par4fore Loc: Bay Shore N.Y.

"juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot"

Mabey true but if you want a sharp photo with low ISO and/or want to have your lens stopped down to the sweet spot or require a greater DOF then a tripod is very useful.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

If you are shooting a stationary object that does not move (no animals or birds in motion) then use a tripod and lock up mirror before exposure. You can shoot at most shutter speeds without much worry. If you shoot wildlife that moves a tripod can get in your way, I try to keep myself at 1/1600 sec. minimum.

DavidM Loc: New Orleans, LA

This is how I do it! I have enough gear to carry and seldom use a tripod. I just boost my shutter speed if possible. This is why I bought a full frame camera so that I could get less noise at higher shutter speeds and still keep a lower ISO.

MtnMan Loc: ID

One thing to note: the advice to turn off VR when using a tripod no longer applies for some new lenses. Notably the Nikon 200-500.

I have left VR on using the tripod with lenses that say to turn it off and not noticed an adverse effect. But I try to remember to turn it off for them anyway. And then often forget to turn it back on.

You'll also get advice to turn VR off above a shutter speed of 1/500. I don't buy that. Their reasoning is wrong technically and I like the stabilization of the image in the viewfinder regardless of shutter speed.

Also I believe there is mostly agreement to use VR when using a monopod.

Dan De Lion Loc: Montana

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To get all the sharpness your lens/camera is capable of delivering you must use a heavy, sturdy tripod. Not a 5 pound tripod but one that weighs around 20 pounds. Once you have your camera mounted, pre release the mirror, set at least a 3 second delay between pushing the shutter release and taking the picture, use an electronic first shutter if you have one, and make sure the tripod's legs are on a non vibrating surface.

This procedure is particularly important for full frame cameras with 36 MP (or greater) sensors or APS-C sensors with 24MP (or greater.) If you don't use these procedures you might as well be shooting with a lower MP sensor. You should also remember that with high MP cameras that image degradation starts at about f8 not at f11.

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