stillducky

I have a d750 and a yn568EX high speed flash. I usually shoot in manual or A. I seldom use the flash but when I do I usually have to take several photos to get the exposure right because my cameras exposure bar does not compensate for the flash. Is there a way to set the camera to compensate for the flash or another way compute for the exposure so I don't have to take as many test photos?

Thanks

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Use the exposure table on the flash (if there is one) otherwise unless you have a dedicated compliant flash with your camera brand/model you are kind of doing the right thing already.

Note that there maybe an exposure table for your flash on line.

Page 67 in the manual. (Guide number)

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Many ways. Depends on the system.

Full manual flash requires a flash meter, or a string pre-knotted with f/stops. All light, sound, and radiation dissipates with the inverse square of the distance from the source. If you have 100% at one foot, you have 1% at ten feet.

BebuLamar

If the YN flash support TTL it should deliver correct exposure without any calculation on your part. Of course TTL sometimes doesn't deliver the correct (or more correctly the exposure that you want) then you do have to take test shots and set the flash exposure compensation. There is really no easy way to predetermine flash exposure except using guide number and the calculating dial on the flash. This method only work with direct flash if you bounce the flash or use diffuser/modifier then it won't work any more. The better way is to have the flash on manual and use a flash meter but still you have to fire the flash to make the measurement. It comes down to if you don't have time rely on TTL it works fairly well. If you have time use manual and use the trial and error method.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Ducky, I just do what you do, I chimp! If you're gonna use an exposure meter, why in the heck are you bothering to use a camera mounted flash anyway?
for very fast shooting use it on ettl. for non ettl. If you use it a lot you get used to how much power to dial up or down so you'll be at acceptable levels most of the time. The flash has no idea what your intent is, so you have to adjust for the intent with every shot.
As I said, if it's ettl, for fast event shooting, you'll never get a shot if you're using something to measure the exposure, so let the brain in the camera and the flash work for you.
Good luck.
SS

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

You just dial the same aprerture and ISO into your speedlight as you have set for the camera, the the flash will tell you the proper distance for the subject and there you go! That's your starting point, any tweeks from there on are on you! Just remember, for any changes in the ambient light, you use the shutter speed for flash out put use the aperture!

Rick36203 Loc: Northeast Alabama

Your flash does support TTL and autoFP sync (also called HSS). Whether you are shooting from the hotshoe or not, be sure "Custom settings menu" "E1" is set to either "1/200 auto FP" or "1/250 auto FP", if your shutter speed might exceed one of those settings while using your flash.

If shooting with the flash in the hotshoe and set to i-TTL you can quickly adjust flash exposure compensation with the left and right arrow keys on the flash. There are other control methods, but that should get you started.

As with all TTL controlled flash units, exposure may vary from image to image depending on how each pre-flash return is evaluated by the camera. For absolute best consistency, use manual flash settings and a light meter.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Your Nikon D750 should fully support TTL functions of your Yongnou 568EX speedlight, which includes speedlight auto-zoom to match your zoom lens coverage. Minor "+" or "-" exposure adjustments may be needed.
http://yongnuo.com.cn/usermanual/pdf/YN568EXny.pdf

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

You can use as a starting point, TTL auto settings. Back in pre-digital days, my most successful formula (works with the very tight latitude slide films) Half the exposure necessary for the ambient light, set by adjusting the shutter speed. And one stop under exposure for the power of the flash, set by adjusting the aperture, or the flash power output. The combination of the two half- power settings, most often resulted in a decent (balanced) exposure. Of course light meters/ flash light meters helped with the basic setting up. But Press Photography, often did not did not afford the time / facility to carry a mobile studio around, with brollies/ soft boxes/snoots/ light stands/etc. Digital, of course , gives you instant playback. So adjustments can be made on the spot. "You've never had it so good" Quote by Harold Macmillan British PM.years ago.

WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio

Use TTL and set camera on P.

daldds Loc: NYC

Well, I hate to admit it, but I cheat sometimes. I put the camera & flash on full auto, let it do the thinking to take the shot, then look at the info and extrapolate for the situation.

picsman Loc: Scotland

Don't forget to adjust your ISO if on manual. As others have said test shots will help set up the various settings you need. I once had the ISO at 1600 on a overcast day with MTB riders coming out of a dark trail in the trees so they appeared to have come from nowhere.

picsman Loc: Scotland

Here's what I mean

Attached file:
(Download)

CO

Is this a situation where the main subject is close to the camera and is getting overexposed ? Bryan Peterson, in his book "Understanding Flash Photography" describes a good way of dealing with that. He puts both the camera and flash in manual mode. He exposes for the background with the camera by watching the exposure indicator in the viewfinder. He exposes for the main subject by estimating the subject to camera distance. When the flash is in manual mode it will display the ideal subject to camera distance on its LCD screen. You adjust the flash output level until the display is showing the distance you estimated.

I've used this method from time to time. You really get an even exposure on both the background and main subject.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Indeed SS why complicated the world when we have automatic tools at hand.... but "chimp" is the key to creativity... an experience chimper can do a lot and fast. My Manual is set for taking flowers close up... on my Canon SX50 I have C1 C2, one is setup for HDR.

I often use my SuperZoom with the on board flash, intensity is adjusted by distance from subject and zooming. Wet finger in air method.
If I use a table top set up, then all photos are similar and the best distance for the light source is prescribed based on previous trial and error.
If you want to get scientific regarding light balance using multi flashes, then check the guide # and calculate how much light you are getting from which placement. We can also bracket.

Photography is a repetitive game... historically we trained our brain to just-know how to set our cameras for the Kodachrome film we used.

AS SS advises " let the brain in the camera and the flash work for you. " those experts in the far east are sitting there ready to adjust your camera and they know what to do.... Auto is not a shame to use.. it is there to do what it was designed to do ... fast compute based on fantastically fast readings and adjustment. Do you have a stick shift and clutch or use an auto transmission that programs shift points based on speed and load and also tweaks the injection ports for correct fuel/air ratio. We live in an automatic world.