Need analysis of this photo !!!
Feb 9, 2016 13:39:48 #
acellis wrote:
All: I can't for the life of me figure out what I ... (show quote)
HI. The best shooting is when it is overcast, (as the light is defused). Another point is that the faster the shutter speed the darker the background ( especially if you are using a flash as fill light). To get better exposure you need to open your aperture ( letting more light in). You need to take advantage of knowing how to interpret the histogram. https://photographylife.com/understanding-histograms-in-photography The histogram will tell you after the shot about the exposure, and allow you to make changes. I suggest that you shoot outdoors using Aperture priority, as this would adjust the shutter speed and get you close to good exposure. For still shots; IE; F4, 1/60th, ISO 800, Aperture priority,- would be a good starting point, needing only a tweak and later PP.
Feb 9, 2016 13:48:33 #
acellis wrote:
All: I can't for the life of me figure out what I ... (show quote)
Do not use your cameras LCD monitor to evaluate exposure! Use your histogram!
Feb 9, 2016 14:31:09 #
Do you have shutter setting so it only releases when focus is attained?
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d7000/users-guide/menus-custom.htm
read about release priority which depends on focus mode.
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d7000/users-guide/menus-custom.htm
read about release priority which depends on focus mode.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:46:39 #
Feb 9, 2016 23:49:47 #
coj
Loc: NJ, USA
If you convert to a jpg before posting there are boxes you can check. One of them is "remove exif data" if you are using Nikon software.
acellis wrote:
Looking for exif
Feb 10, 2016 00:03:49 #
coj
Loc: NJ, USA
[quote=amfoto1] "You need to use a single AF point, one that you select instead of the camera. In this case, it appears the center one would have worked great. I probably use a single AF point around 85% of the time and I get accurate focus on upwards of 95% of my shots ".........that is my formula and I like it a lot, except for landscapes. That way you are exactly sure of your focus point. If the OP went back to his original image, opened it, right clicked on it and then clicked on "show focus point" he would have half of his answers, the other half being underexposed, which could be fixed if you shot it in NEF.
Feb 10, 2016 00:12:07 #
coj
Loc: NJ, USA
Exactly.
[quote=Madman]A couple of suggestions for you.
This situation demands single spot focusing - and the spot being directly on the kingfishers head. AF has the tendency to focus on what is closest to the camera, and here you can see that the front column is the sharpest part of the image.
[quote=Madman]A couple of suggestions for you.
This situation demands single spot focusing - and the spot being directly on the kingfishers head. AF has the tendency to focus on what is closest to the camera, and here you can see that the front column is the sharpest part of the image.
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Feb 13, 2016 10:52:04 #
dpullum wrote:
If no one else mentioned it... procedure is to press half way and then the camera focuses and then you press the rest of the way. We have all shot a few pushing the button too quickly.
Be sure to set the camera on focus priority for release. Then this can't happen.
Feb 13, 2016 10:59:48 #
I did not see closure on the underexposure.
If you used manual exposure then that explains. But if you used any of the autoexposure modes you must have exposure compensation set negative. Note that on Nikons EC settings persist after turning camera off. You need to set it back to zero.
Sometimes underexposure is due to using spot or center metering on the wrong spot but this image is pretty even in brightness so that cause is unlikely.
If you used manual exposure then that explains. But if you used any of the autoexposure modes you must have exposure compensation set negative. Note that on Nikons EC settings persist after turning camera off. You need to set it back to zero.
Sometimes underexposure is due to using spot or center metering on the wrong spot but this image is pretty even in brightness so that cause is unlikely.
Feb 13, 2016 13:00:27 #
MtnMan wrote:
I did not see closure on the underexposure.
If you used manual exposure then that explains. But if you used any of the autoexposure modes you must have exposure compensation set negative. Note that on Nikons EC settings persist after turning camera off. You need to set it back to zero.
Sometimes underexposure is due to using spot or center metering on the wrong spot but this image is pretty even in brightness so that cause is unlikely.
If you used manual exposure then that explains. But if you used any of the autoexposure modes you must have exposure compensation set negative. Note that on Nikons EC settings persist after turning camera off. You need to set it back to zero.
Sometimes underexposure is due to using spot or center metering on the wrong spot but this image is pretty even in brightness so that cause is unlikely.
MtnMan, I don't like to contradict another poster, but here for the benefit of the OP, I must.
If the camera is set to a multi-point focus mode and one of those spots resides on something in front of the subject, that is where the camera will focus. That situation will make spot focusing on the subject a necessity. (Focus Lock could also be utilized.)
Secondly, if the camera has a defined ISO setting, i.e. 400, rather than the auto ISO setting, it can take an over or under exposed shot. The setting of exposure compensation will not alter this.
In the image shown by the OP, you can see that the pole to the right of the bird is the sharpest element of the image, indicating that one of the focus points found that item and caused the bird and everything behind that pole to be out of focus.
Your comment about exposure compensation remaining as set until changed is absolutely correct; that situation causes me much aggravation because I am forgetful.
I am grateful that you took your time to help the OP. I trust that you will not take offense to this posting.
Feb 16, 2016 22:12:19 #
canon Lee wrote:
HI. The best shooting is when it is overcast, (as ... (show quote)
I believe the wide-open aperture on this lens is f/5.6 at this focal range
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Feb 17, 2016 02:58:06 #
Photo way underexposed.
Yes, you may have the Exposure Compensation adjusted to a minus setting.
Where is the focus point? It appears that it lies somewhere in the foreground, due to the background appearing somewhat out of focus. That kind of background is normal. A Canon camera can be set to show the focus point in the camera monitor screen.
Yes, you may have the Exposure Compensation adjusted to a minus setting.
Where is the focus point? It appears that it lies somewhere in the foreground, due to the background appearing somewhat out of focus. That kind of background is normal. A Canon camera can be set to show the focus point in the camera monitor screen.
Mar 29, 2016 10:03:50 #
This is unrelated, but Chaman's hummingbird image is a positive testament to the lens.
Mar 29, 2016 17:01:25 #
acellis wrote:
.All: I can't for the life of me figure out what I am doing wrong. I am having a terrible time getting sharper pictures.
This photo screams hand held OR certainly not braced enough. That's it. There are other problems that were pointed out but for sharpness ... the camera moved. NOT MUCH, but enough to give that soft look.
Apr 2, 2016 13:22:44 #
There is little contrast from the bird and its surrounding. A tight crop of the bird would eliminate the superfluous surrounding.
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