JD750 Loc: SoCal

I have developed a list of things to check, and some tips, that help me avoid missing important shots, time wasted trying to figure out what the he__ the camera is doing, or having to spend hours in post and getting substandard results fixing the effects created by a mistaken setting.

This list and the tips below it, are really for those new to DSLR's.

Because the old crusty pros and even us experienced amateurs are much wiser and would never make a mistake with camera settings. ;) However all are invited to comment, deride, endorse, etc.

(1) WB
(2) ISO
(3) Aperture
(4) Shutter

(5) Metering
(6) Focus settings & image stabilization
(7) Shooting Format (Raw/JPG - quality, size)
(8) Shutter Mode (Single, continuous, 10s timer,…. etc)

(9) Battery Level
(10) No Shots remaining on card


1-4 every time you put the camera to your eye <- DO THIS
1 - 10 when you pull the camera out of the drawer/before a session
5-8 when “default” settings were changed for a special case*
9-10 periodically during the day/night/session

*TIP: When changing default modes (5)-(8) for a special case, always put the settings back to default when done

TIP: Never leave the camera sit without a memory card. Replace the card immediately after downloading images.

TIP: When the memory card is removed for downloading, leave the camera access door open as a reminder.

TIP: if you like to keep images on the memory card after downloading, when replacing the card, shoot a black frame. The next time you insert the card in the computer for download, sort by date or number, then the black frame makes it easy to see where the new images start.

TIP: Do not "touch" images stored on the memory card. Do not rename them or erase them on the memory card using the computer. Do that work on the images stored on the computer hard drive. Reformat the card using the camera if you want to clear the card for the next shoot.

anotherview Loc: California

Your tips make plenty of sense in view of my experience.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Useful, but some people download images by cable or wifi, so some of your tips seem more representative of personal workflow than general advice. Perhaps a few extensions would be useful for other people's habits, camera types, different software and so on.

Good start though!

JD750 Loc: SoCal

It was developed from my habits and shared for new users and info to use or not use as they like.

Please do post extensions based on your workflow!

BebuLamar

While the WB isn't important if you shoot RAW. It's a difficult setting to check.
It's a very good idea to check the aperture, shutter speed and ISO even if you shoot in full auto. You need to know what's the camera is doing and if it makes sense.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

Hard to check? Maybe it's harder to check WB on some cameras than others.

Some people say that WB doesn't matter with raw. I personally don't agree. First I like to spend the minimum time in post. When I open a raw file it opens displaying the camera's white balance setting, which I can change if I want. But I personally don't want to have to change it on 500 pictures because it was set wrong in the camera. And if I was shooting different lighting situations, like outside all day, morning mid-day evening, sunny cloudy shady, and I forgot to set WB accordingly, then that is a real mess to fix. I consider that a complete waste of time.

Second, even with raw, there are differences in the WB choices based on post processing software used. Again, it takes some additional time to get it right in post.

But some people like working and spending time in post and that's fine if that is what they like.

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

By making WB adjustments in camera, you're not really saving time. You may be spending less time in post, but in turn, you are spending more time fiddling with the camera menu while shooting. In the raw editor, you have far more precise controls and tools available than you have in your camera. And automatic default setting options as well, so you don't need to start WB adjustments from scratch for each of the 500 sequence images, as you claim. You just need to learn your raw editor's capabilities in more depth so that you can operate the editor more efficiently.

lev29 Loc: Born and living in MA.

JD750,
I don't know yet if I'll be able to contribute, qualify, or dispute any of these pointers you or others make. All I can state at this time is: thanks for putting this together and posting it! &#128077;&#127995;&#9996;&#127996;&#65039;&#128512;&#128526;

JD750 Loc: SoCal

Thank you!

JD750 Loc: SoCal

I agree, learn the editor, I am always striving to become more efficient in post as I want to spend the minimum time there.

Re the WB issue, I beg to differ. I can change WB in about 3 seconds on my camera. So maybe it is you who need to learn your camera's capabilities so you can operate it more efficiently?

The discussion of WB in-camera or in post is far more complex, and depending on the situation one or the other may be more effective. That is a topic for another thread.

But knowing what your WB is set to when shooting is always important.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

I must be frickin dyslexic. I got this post's title wrong and I just noticed this, and now it is too late to edit the title.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Crusty here.

1 - given what I shoot, (everything) and how I record (raw only) WB is set to auto or whatever - I make that decision in Lightroom or DXO.

2-4 - these settings are always in constant flux - I will adjust as necessary while I shoot.

5 - metering - I always, always always use spot, and no auto exposure. Again, I make exposure decisions manually, primarily based on the Zone System, which I adopted back in the late 60s. I go for the highest amount of light hitting the sensor without overexposing (blowing out) the important highlights. On my D800 at low ISOs this is usually measured of the brightest part of the scene that needs detail, and I add 1-1/3 to 1-2/3 stop more exposure.

6 - I use no stabilization - I've determined that it does rob sharpness, softening very fine detail, though it may be useful for non-critical applications where I must use a slow shutter speed and can't use a tripod. In my current work, that is almost never. Focus is set to AF0C, dynamic area, one point to 51 points based on subject and circumstances.

7 - always raw

8 - always continuous high speed, but if I use a different mode for whatever reason, it will be reverted

9 - before a shoot I will charge up several batteries

10 - after every shoot I copy files to memory stick (in the field, sometimes while I drive home. When I get home I copy everything to my hard drive, which is then backed up to two separate hard drives automatically every night. Card is formatted in the camera.

But everyone's mileage can, and often does, differ - thanks for posting!

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Seeing a list like this makes me glad I shoot a film camera with no features like AF, or IS, and no need for batteries or WB adjustment, etc.

As long as the lens cap is off I'm good to go. :)

Crwiwy Loc: Devon UK

Sound fine except for 'TIP: When the memory card is removed for downloading, leave the camera access door open as a reminder.'

I always push mine nearly closed to save accidents and a broken access door. I replace the card as soon as the pictures have finished downloading.

Glaspark Loc: Glasgow, Scotland

Why is WB any more difficult to check than any other setting? My Nikon D7100/D90 shows this setting in the top panel along with ISO, Shutter, Aperture etc.