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Balloon Festival in Albuquerque,NM
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Jul 23, 2015 11:33:55   #
AMD Loc: Houston,TX
 
I plan to take pictures at the balloon Festival in October in Albuquerque,N.M. I have Nikon D800 with 28-300,80-200 and 24-70 lenses , Sony RX10,Sony WX 350 and Canon Rebel with 24-105, 10-20.
What are your suggestions to bring with me for this event. Thank you.

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Jul 23, 2015 11:50:51   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
Bring the Nikon D800 and your 28-300. That will cover all the focal lengths you need. Get there early because hot air balloons only fly on cool mornings when it's not windy. I used a 24-70, 70-200 and my 300mm lens a few weeks ago and they did fine. But since you have one lens that covers all those focal lengths, you're golden.

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Jul 23, 2015 12:24:23   #
Photocraig
 
AMD wrote:
I plan to take pictures at the balloon Festival in October in Albuquerque,N.M. I have Nikon D800 with 28-300,80-200 and 24-70 lenses , Sony RX10,Sony WX 350 and Canon Rebel with 24-105, 10-20.
What are your suggestions to bring with me for this event. Thank you.


I haven't been to the Albuquerque event, but we do have the Reno Balloon festival. There are a variety of situations at these events. Remember, these are big balloons and the ground action takes place across say 20-50 acres. So, try for an elevated spot for a while and get down and close to get the individual character of each balloon and crew. These are engaged and engaging folks, and some what exhibitionists. They LOVE to be photographed, and get cards and send them pictures. Don't forget the ground crews and chase truck drivers. A landing and recovery sequence would make a good essay to summarize the story. Most of these are family edeavors and have stories with forever appeal.

The most impressive is there is a morning "Glow Show" as the propane burners fill the balloons. And in the dark, they also project a very warm as in color temp (as well) glow into the balloons. So to get many of them, a wide angle view works. Since they don't all start at the same time across the field, these glows and inflating balloons are somewhat separated. The actual filling operation of a single balloon is graphically pleasing and is somewhat a ballet like a racing car pit stop so you will want to get tight(er) shots. I've used 150-300mm depending on the distance and 20-35mm up close.

Also, flying balloons:
Right after the glow show is the Mass Ascention and wide angle views are essential. Individual Balloons, especially the character kind like Porky Pig, Darth Vader and many more--Wells Fargo Stage Coach etc. deserve their own isolated shots at 100-300mm. But many appear in formation and a 50-100mm view would isolate them well. Look for juxtapositions. One of the best shots by my favorite local newsie is of a dragon appearing to be munching on the hot dog Balloon. Darth makes an inviting target, too. Juxtapositions with landmarks make very unique photographs, too. It takes the old and "tired and mature" images and icons and gives them a new look. Over water thre are good reflections. And, perhaps over some flat desert, you might even get a mirage reflection. I'd look for it, but not go hunting for such a thing.

Exposures run from low light at pre-dawn to very bright with backlit balloons probably compensated +1-2 stops depending on their positions relative to the sun and clouds, if any.

All mine Balloon photos are still on Ectachrome and not scanned. But it is a fun event. And opportunities last all day. You will turn a corner and see this giant balloon filling the fram--er sky! Or maybe looking light it's tied to the Golden Arches or the Honda Logo. Have fun, bring batteries, Cards and coffee (perhaps mildly fortified). The pre-dawn in the desert is cccooold!

What to bring?? You've got the focal lengths overlapped, so grow 4 hands and bring 'em all. But, the big Nikon will be the star because of the resolution and DR will record the colors that these balloons show. Each of the others will have their place either on the walk about, the mass ascention with a wide on one body and a tele on the other. Bring your tripod because the early action, when they're all together, starts in the DARK and a 30 sec exposure will be likely. Don't forget a falshlight and/or a headlamp.

Orient yourself to get the sunrise as a background, or that early light front lighting the field and early risers. If you're going with others dispatch someone for the sunrise or sweet front light shot from the opposite direction with one of the compact cameras. Bring your smart phone for compass directions and communications because groups get separated in the dark and visibility is cut down when the balloons start to inflate.

Have fun and visit us next time weekend after Labor Day.
C

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Jul 23, 2015 12:39:56   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
AMD wrote:
I plan to take pictures at the balloon Festival in October in Albuquerque,N.M. I have Nikon D800 with 28-300,80-200 and 24-70 lenses , Sony RX10,Sony WX 350 and Canon Rebel with 24-105, 10-20.
What are your suggestions to bring with me for this event. Thank you.


Do you have a 1.4x?

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Jul 23, 2015 12:41:31   #
Capture48 Loc: Arizona
 
AMD wrote:
I plan to take pictures at the balloon Festival in October in Albuquerque,N.M. I have Nikon D800 with 28-300,80-200 and 24-70 lenses , Sony RX10,Sony WX 350 and Canon Rebel with 24-105, 10-20.
What are your suggestions to bring with me for this event. Thank you.


First let me say you have one useless lens in your bag. The 80-200 is covered by your 28-300. Unless they have very different apertures, I'd sell it and buy a wide angle lens.

OK, enough of the unsolicited advice, In the morning as they blow up the balloons you will need a wide angle, the 28 end of your zoom will work. The further up in the air they get, the longer zoom you will need, the 300 end in combination with being able to crop like crazy with a 36 MP camera makes that 28-300 a good choice.

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Jul 23, 2015 12:54:08   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Capture48 wrote:
First let me say you have one useless lens in your bag. The 80-200 is covered by your 28-300. Unless they have very different apertures, I'd sell it and buy a wide angle lens.

OK, enough of the unsolicited advice, In the morning as they blow up the balloons you will need a wide angle, the 28 end of your zoom will work. The further up in the air they get, the longer zoom you will need, the 300 end in combination with being able to crop like crazy with a 36 MP camera makes that 28-300 a good choice.
First let me say you have one useless lens in your... (show quote)


Don't know anything about the 80-200, do ya?

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Jul 23, 2015 13:09:42   #
Capture48 Loc: Arizona
 
SteveR wrote:
Don't know anything about the 80-200, do ya?

Not about his, since he did not specify, and why I asked about the aperture. Could be a 2.8, or the f4, or an older model which can be very nice.

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Jul 23, 2015 13:14:37   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Capture48 wrote:
Not about his, since he did not specify, and why I asked about the aperture. Could be a 2.8, or the f4, or an older model which can be very nice.


f2.8 or f4 it should have nice optics, which is why I asked if he had a 1.4x.

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Jul 23, 2015 13:20:29   #
Capture48 Loc: Arizona
 
SteveR wrote:
f2.8 or f4 it should have nice optics, which is why I asked if he had a 1.4x.

Thats true but anytime you put another piece of glass between your subject and the sensor, you will take a quality hit. That hit may be completely acceptable, I realize that, just never been a big fan of TC's

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Jul 23, 2015 13:46:36   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Capture48 wrote:
Thats true but anytime you put another piece of glass between your subject and the sensor, you will take a quality hit. That hit may be completely acceptable, I realize that, just never been a big fan of TC's


48, because YOU are not a big fan of TC's does not mean a TC is not the most appropriate optic in a pro's bag.
I can put a 1.4 behind every lens I own that will accept one and I guarantee, YOU could not see a hit in IQ in any of them. Some TC's cost as much as some of the sharpest lenses made and contain the exact same glass, not to mention are engineered to be in the optical path.
I do not hesitate to put one on when I need more reach!
I know you qualified your bias with "accetptible", but that's all it is, your personal bias, whether experienced or not!
Just my opinion! ;-)
SS

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Jul 23, 2015 13:53:20   #
Capture48 Loc: Arizona
 
SharpShooter wrote:
48, because YOU are not a big fan of TC's does not mean a TC is not the most appropriate optic in a pro's bag.
I can put a 1.4 behind every lens I own that will accept one and I guarantee, YOU could not see a hit in IQ in any of them. Some TC's cost as much as some of the sharpest lenses made and contain the exact same glass, not to mention are engineered to be in the optical path.
I do not hesitate to put one on when I need more reach!
I know you qualified your bias with "accetptible", but that's all it is, your personal bias, whether experienced or not!
Just my opinion! ;-)
SS
48, because YOU are not a big fan of TC's does not... (show quote)

I don't disagree with you, in fact I reveled my bias. Neither did the OP list the aperture of the 80-200, adding a TC might (depending on aperture) cause issues with auto-focus. The OP listed their equipment and a TC was not in the list. So I was just trying to work with what they listed.

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Jul 23, 2015 14:12:58   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Capture48 wrote:
I don't disagree with you, in fact I reveled my bias. Neither did the OP list the aperture of the 80-200, adding a TC might (depending on aperture) cause issues with auto-focus. The OP listed their equipment and a TC was not in the list. So I was just trying to work with what they listed.


Not exactly....you advised him to sell the 80-200.

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Jul 23, 2015 14:18:33   #
Capture48 Loc: Arizona
 
SteveR wrote:
Not exactly....you advised him to sell the 80-200.


Yea, come on now, that was a little tongue-in-cheek as you should have been able to tell by the statement.....
"Enough of the unsolicited advice"

Even so, how is that not working with the equipment the OP had listed?

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Jul 23, 2015 15:10:50   #
dmraves Loc: Austin, TX
 
I've been to the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta 3 times in the past 5 years, and each time, the attendance has gotten larger. For weekend Mass Ascensions, the field can get very crowded. Without an ultra-wide, you're probably going to need to stand further back to frame your shots, and that means a lot of people in the foreground. Depending upon your height, it can be a real problem if you can't shoot over them. I may go again this year, and I'm going to take a 20, 24-85 VR, and 70-300 VR. Also, my 20 is the 1.8G, and having at least one fast lens is good for Dawn Patrol and Evening Glow.

If you've never been there, don't underestimate how cold it can be in the morning. I've seen it down into the mid-30's before sunrise. Add to that even a slight breeze, and it's bone chilling. Dress appropriately.

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Jul 23, 2015 18:20:48   #
strobe Loc: Central Iowa
 
As much as you can, you want the sun at your back, so it is shining on "your" side of the balloon. Your eyes will easily adjust to seeing colorful balloons lit from behind, but the camera will just see large dark sillouttes, or if the balloons are properly exposed everything else will be blown out.

That being said, the balloons will 'lay out' to inflate with the basket 'upwind' and the envelope downwind so the wind helps inflate the balloon once they lift the neck open. (And to keep the wind from blowing the envelope over the flame before the balloon is inflated enough to keep the flame away from the fabric.)

After lay out, once inflation starts, most of the activity is around the neck of the balloon so you want to be at a 30 to 60 degree angle from directly upwind of the balloon.

So you have to keep both the sun and wind in mind when you choose a location to shoot from.

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