SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

aj, stop lusting and post your avatar on my Sunrise/Sunset thread. It looks like a good one!! You can even tell us you shot it on manual(even if you didn't)!! :lol:
SS

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Most macro-photographers shoot straight manual, usually ISO 200, 1/200-sec at f/16, manually varying speedlight output for proper subject exposure.

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

I shoot a mix of manual and aperture. It really depends on what I want to achieve. I keep my ISO as low as possible.

lukan Loc: Chicago, IL

^^^^ Good call... I do this exactly, too. My most frequent adjustment is aperture. I let the meter(s) in the camera figure out the shutter speed (exposure), unless I'm shooting sports with a lens at or over 200mm. Then I'll make sure i'm shooting fast enough to accommodate my focal length. Ideally, I want to keep my ISO as low as possible, though. I also bracket at 1/3 stop intervals. :-)

blackest Loc: Ireland

Can you explain how you get to control all 3 of shutter speed iso and aperture and still meet the requirements of the light available.

I think there is some latitude in getting an exposure, you can be a bit over or under exposed and still get a good photograph but it rapidly deteriorates.

Sometimes there is no shot open if the light is too low.

blackest Loc: Ireland

hmm i pondered a little about manual with auto iso not being manual
isn't it just like using a calculator instead of working it out in your head?

E.G
given the light level, the aperture, and shutterspeed, calculate the iso required to give the correct exposure...

You could work it out and dial it in but the camera will calculate it for you.

But what is the camera doing? Assuming the world is at mid grey with the aperture and shutter speed calculate the iso needed to record mid grey on the sensor maybe? It probably doesn't even take into accounts the highlights of a scene and will blindly blow them.

i'd hazard a guess a camera would underexpose a scene with a lot of snow or sand
if it calculated the iso needed does that make sense?

pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

Me three. And in dim light I have to go manual on my lens. I guess that constitutes really 'Manual'. Pin a pork chop on my tail end. That said, I do prefer auto-focus.


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Nice result, but I'll stick with A or S. I did enough Manual back in SLR days.

wteffey Loc: Ocala, FL USA

"Manual" modes are fine for subjects that just sit there, like your engine, because you can keep trying various settings until you find one that works. (I use manual for things like flowers). Subjects like animals, kids, sports etc usually photograph better with a little automation. .

Jcmarino

I use manual on the camera and also with my flashes. I guess Im just a control freak! But I can't blame the camera for bad settings and I learn a lot.

Gary Truchelut Loc: Coldspring, TX

The best way to learn how a camera works is to shoot in manual mode. Once you understand how changing this effects the other then you can understand what the camera is doing for you in all the other modes and use them if you wish. Too many people use them as a crutch and don't ever bother to find out why they work in this situation and not this one. Once the light comes on in your brain, the fun begins.

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

I use (M) all the time.

jcboy3

So you were trying to take a "portrait" of an engine block?

First, the auto modes are designed primarily for JPG shooters, to get a certain style of shot. In this case, you want to get this right in camera, because JPG does not give much latitude for adjustment afterwards. I have used an auto mode occasionally, but only because it was the quickest way to get to certain camera settings that are buried in the menus. But I do this only because I know what I want and what the auto mode provides.

Second, you underexposed the shot by over three stops (three stops just for the ISO adjustment, plus 1/3 stop for the aperture adjustment). Fine if you don't intend to try to get detail out of the shadows, and you shot RAW. But if you shot JPG the detail is going to be lost. And you get better IQ with higher ISO than exposure compensation in post.

It wasn't clear why you changed the settings, and whether you shot the second with flash. If you just want to see what the picture will look like, you can try live view before shooting. If you want low ISO, then just set it and use your exposure meter to set aperture/shutter speed.

If you want to shoot fast, you can use program mode with auto ISO. Dial in some negative exposure compensation for high contrast shots to avoid blown highlights.

chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

99% of the time I am using M (not auto ISO, but auto focus). As has been stated already, the control to get the image to look good is what is all about.

Chuckwal Loc: Boynton Beach Florida

Ajohnston
Use M 90 percent of the time along with BBF makes my photos
look differently also my cataract surgery helped a lot. Just having
Fun. Also just bought the Canon 6D and it make a difference
Chuck