streetmarty Loc: Brockton, Ma

Best help yet! Thank you so much, loved your Flickr site, especially the black and whites in the Hillbilly Grill, nice!

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

No problem!

PM me if you need more help than that.

Wallbanger Loc: Madison, WI

Best answer!

BadBill

Don't the lights have a "cycle", much like the lights in small venue sports stadium such as high schools etc., where the color temp depends on where in the cycle the photo is exposed?

If that is the case it's my impression that any light you add to the scene must overwhelm the cycling lights to produce a constant temperature.

I shoot a lot of high school soccer and the 3nd halves are almost always under the lights with the result that a sequence of images taken with the motor drive set at 9 shots per second will frequently result in half a dozen or more color temperatures which I need to process in post.

Wallbanger Loc: Madison, WI

Cycle is different than white balance or color temperature. If you are set on auto white balance while shooting a burst, you could end up with different settings based on what the camera adjusted to.

wisner Loc: The planet Twylo

Photo 3 has blown out highlights on her shirt. If you have a RAW file, you may be able to bring these back. As to WB issues, try the WB tool in Lightroom or ACR and click on the grey metal the horse is standing on; it pears to be an element that should be neutral. After that, if you know how, a 4 point color correction using curves in Photoshop will take care of any color issues.
Rongnongno is correct, the images are a bit soft due to camera shake.

SheriB Loc: York Co, PA

fluorescent light fixtures 'cycle' and your light temp will change.You cannot see it but the camera does. I brought this up in another forum a few years ago when I first started shooting and some of the guys there got into the technical nitty gritty about it . Over my head. But basically I remember them saying that if you shoot slow enough ( 1/60s I think it was) your WB will not change and you could use a custom WB then. I have some shots from a horse expo where the rider/horse is normal at one end and tinted at the other. No way you can shoot a moving horse at 1/60s.I just shoot on auto and adjust as best I can in post.When all else fails , convert to B&W. I have seen posts by sports shooters,and this is a problem for them too, especially in old gyms.

Larryw918 Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma

Go to your local plastic supply house and get some milk plexiglass 1/8 inch thick. Put it in front of the lens and do a custom white balance.you will get perfect white balance every time.

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

May I suggest when you upload pictures that you send the data along with it. This allows us to see all the settings the camera was using.

If it's a portrait taking time with a bride I'll use a custom white balance but sometimes on the run you don't have time .....

Always shoot in Raw when you think your going to have white balance issues, this of course gives you much more flexibility in PP.

In the first 2 pictures the camera tried to balance what was in the FOV. You have a few different sources of light which all have a different kelvin temp. By cropping your shot in camera and not relying on PP crop, plus using your metering sampling options you can set the light source. As they say, it's always better to get in in the camera right, plus it will make you a better photographer. PP is for touch up work ;)

In picture #3 is the gal is the subject you missed the sample area. Appears that you tried to sample to the left to offset the influence of the bright light. You can set to the window for exposure as suggested already and then use a flash to fill. Or you can use a Hoodman like I do and find that compromise using live view mode and then do a bit of exposure fixing in PP. As you will be relying on PP to fix it's important that you nail that compromise because if you don't you will end up with more noise.

An added tid bit ....... your DOF was to shallow in Pix #3. When your that close to the subject your DOF is real short, but then again that's not what you asked help on .....

Have a good day 8-)

Redron Loc: Fairfield. California

If you shoot Raw you can adjust the white balance in Photoshop, even if you shoot jpeg you can open it in Adobe Bridge which is an add on to photoshop and open it in raw and adjust it there.
the window you can burn in photoshop to darken it
$10 a month for photoshop, lightroom and bridge. Not a bad deal

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Welcome to the land of, "Automatic White Balance sucks!"

Fluorescent lights are green. If they are Cool White, the color temperature is around 4100K. HOWEVER, in situations like this, using a Pre-Set White Balance off of a neutral test target or through an ExpoDisc works best, because you can measure the full mix of light from all sources, including light reflected off the walls, coming through windows and doors, etc.

Delta-1 Gray Cards cost less than $10, and make perfect exposure and white balance references. Find 'em on B&H or Adorama or similar retail sites.

See your Nikon manual for instructions on Pre-Set White Balance (almost every other camera manufacturer calls this a CUSTOM white balance).

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

You guys know that you're responding to a two year old thread, right?

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

Not much you can do with WB. Here I adjusted in Lightroom.
The Highlights were turned down and the Shadows and Blacks were turned up.
It's that simple if you have a Post Processing Program.
Craig