Lens for Low Light (Page 2): Apologies for my reply. which was meant for "Nannyrazzi"'s post. Ian E...

Ian E

Apologies for my reply. which was meant for "Nannyrazzi"'s post. Ian E

twowindsbear

A circular polarized filter is a CPL rather than a CPU . . . So the store will know what you really want when you go shopping.

Post some pix of your trip? & Have fun

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Are you saying that you HAVE all of the lenses listed in the first post?

You have everything you need for any situation..no need to buy anything.

I'd bring these three

3. AF-S 35mm f/1.8G DX
4. AF-S 50mm f/1.8G
5. AF-S 14-24mm f/4G IF ED DX

dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl

NealB wrote:

I am going to the Museum of Science and Industry i... (show quote)

The Nikkor 50mm 1.8 is a good one for low light, I got lucky and got a used Nikkor 50mm 1.4. I love it on my D7100. great Bokeh. The 1.8 is also a good one.

The 35 mm 1.8 is also good and the 2 should give you a good selection.

Although, the D7100 is very good in low light and you can probably get away with the 18-140mm by cranking up your ISO some. Be sure and get a good wide shot of the Submarine. (I am a Dan Gallery fan and love the history of the capture of it)

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

twowindsbear wrote:

A circular polarized filter is a CPL rather than a CPU . . . So the store will know what you really want when you go shopping.

Post some pix of your trip? & Have fun

I was trying to picture some sort of filter that would cover a processing chip. :D

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

High ISO will help/ Practice adjusting settings in low light situations before you get there.

A flexible rubber lens hood will help will glass reflections. Place it right up against the glass.

AZNikon Loc: Mesa, AZ

I have an Eitar Digital UV filter on my lens all the time. I also have a Vivitar CPL filter which I have yet to use. I understand that you should not use both of these filters at the same time. Is that true? At the local dental college there is a small glass display set up as an old dentist office and I bought the CPL to use in photographing that when I get around to getting permission and taking the shot. Thanks for the advice, Bob

old hippy wrote:

Circular polarizing filter. But take it off for things like the model railroad, doll house, circus display. Ag exhibit, baby chicks being born.
Who sell CPU Adorama, amazon, eBay. Best advice. Get it to fit largest lens, and adaptor rings to use on smaller lenses. Later Ed
Talked to Ken Travis this morning.

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

jethro779 wrote:

I would suggest the 35mm f1.8.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Jbat Loc: Charleston, SC

I used to use the UV filters but stopped many years ago. One of the problems I had was that stacking a CPL or any other filter on top of the UV filter tends to cause vignetting in the image. For that reason and the fact that I felt I could not go wrong by putting less of any kind of "obstruction" in front of my primary lens, I don't put anything there now except a filter I need for a purpose. A CPL would be a good example of that.

bobbennett wrote:

I have an Eitar Digital UV filter on my lens all the time. I also have a Vivitar CPL filter which I have yet to use. I understand that you should not use both of these filters at the same time. Is that true? At the local dental college there is a small glass display set up as an old dentist office and I bought the CPL to use in photographing that when I get around to getting permission and taking the shot. Thanks for the advice, Bob

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

When using a Polarizing filter you remove the UV filter. That's standard.

Jbat wrote:

I used to use the UV filters but stopped many years ago. One of the problems I had was that stacking a CPL or any other filter on top of the UV filter tends to cause vignetting in the image. For that reason and the fact that I felt I could not go wrong by putting less of any kind of "obstruction" in front of my primary lens, I don't put anything there now except a filter I need for a purpose. A CPL would be a good example of that.

Festus Loc: North Dakota

NealB wrote:

I am going to the Museum of Science and Industry i... (show quote)

No need to purchase a new lens. The 35mm F1.8 should be just fine.

sirlensalot Loc: Arizona

First choice - #3
Second choice - #5
Have fun.

jethro779 Loc: Tucson, AZ

dcampbell52 wrote:

The Nikkor 50mm 1.8 is a good one for low light, I got lucky and got a used Nikkor 50mm 1.4. I love it on my D7100. great Bokeh. The 1.8 is also a good one.

The 35 mm 1.8 is also good and the 2 should give you a good selection.

Although, the D7100 is very good in low light and you can probably get away with the 18-140mm by cranking up your ISO some. Be sure and get a good wide shot of the Submarine. (I am a Dan Gallery fan and love the history of the capture of it)

Cap'n Fatso rules!!!

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...I shot the Library of Congress and various Smithsonians last summer with my 24-70 f2.8 and results were very cool. AFA a flash, with all the glass cases and whatnot I would (and did!) stay away...instead find the angle to avoid reflections/glare. Just takes a little time and you get better at it...

plimsoll

I second the recommendation for a rubber lens hood. This lets you put the lens right up against the glass, eliminating reflections.

I would recommend a sync cable for your flash - you can hold the camera against the glass and aim the flash through the glass at your subject.

Find out if the museum allows tripods - this opens up many more possibilities. If you do not have a cable release for your camera, this is a good accessory to use when your camera is on the tripod.