dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

While viewing somebody’s pictures on line (I didn’t pay attention to the name) I noticed that he always used Manual exposure mode. More than that he used spot metering. He is landscape photographer and his photos were beautiful.
Is it typical to use spot metering for landscape? If yes, what part of the scene I should meter from? I am not questioning his technique, on the contrary, after viewing his work I want to learn from him.
Another question: I understand that Manual exposure mode gives more control. Can I have the same control with one of the Auto exposure modes plus exposure compensation? Thank you.

Blaster6 Loc: Central PA

By definition auto means you are giving up control.

Trying to use auto with exposure compesation is going to end up being much more difficult than just using manual and that is not how or why you would use EC.

It is hard to tell why a photographer used a metering mode but one thing is for sure: one mode would have to be selected even if not using the internal meter. It has no effect in manual mode.

You need to understand your exposure triangle. One or more sides of the triangle are usually dictated by the result you want. For landscape you set your ISO low (maybe 100) and your aperture for good depth of field. Now you can use experience or rule of thumb or an internal or external meter to set the shutter speed. You can increase or decrease the shutter speed to get the exposure you want.

When you think of it this way and really only have one setting to play with, who needs auto?

If you are looking at pictures from a photographer who does a lot of landscapes there is a chance he didn't even use the internal meter and the EXIF is just showing the last mode that was selected for metering. It doesn't mean it was used. The only way to know for sure is ask that photographer.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

Many landscapes have a very large dynamic range which will require significant postprocessing (pp). The general rule is to expose to the right and then bring up the shadows and other dark areas in pp. For exposing to the right, I would use spot metering on a cloud since matrix metering would cover too great an area with more dynamic range. Using spot metering enables you to pick something bright if exposing to the right. Alternatively, for landscapes that do not have a very wide dynamic range, I'd expose for neutral gray and point the spot meter at a rock or grass or anything neutral. I use spot metering more than matrix. I don't use central weighted much(portraits sometimes).

Dave_TX

Check out Sekonic's webinars for info on metering and setting exposure for landscape photography.
http://www.sekonic.com/classroom/webinars/archivedwebinars.aspx

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

When you use spot metering do you consider the Zone System?

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

Thank you for the good link.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

Absolutely, otherwise there may not be enough information in the photo (I only shoot raw and everything manual) for adequate pp. You also need to understand your camera sensor's capabilities for this purpose. For example, I can adjust portions of a raw photo from my D80 by up to 2 stops and up to 3 stops from my D800e. So I test the dynamic range before I decide what to expose on. If it's greater than 3 stops then I won't expose far to the right. Hope this makes sense.

BTW, that was a great question - Ansel Adams would be proud!

Dave_TX

Ansel Adams was doing HDR photography long before digital photography was invented. That is what the Zone System was all about.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

Exactly right, but there's an exact correlation to digital photography per the OP's question.

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

Yes, it make sense to me, I have D200, I think it's the same sensor as your D80. Do you use this technique for all your shooting or just landscape?

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

So now I have to ask - where is the best place to learn The Zone System? I see a few posts in Google, but is there a definitive place?

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

Typically only landscapes have the broad dynamic range. There might be other situations, similar to landscapes that would require it but I'haven't encountered any - like portraits taken outdoors at a waterfall with a bright sky - same idea but called a portrait.

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

There is a book by Ansel Adams "The Negative." I didn't read it, but somebody told me that he covers the Zone System in details.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0821221868/kenrockwellcom

I understand that spot metering does not make a lot of sense without the Zone System. Spot meter is used to get a very accurate exposure and it requires correction for whites and blacks.

There is another interesting site:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm

This is interesting to understand and fun to practice sometimes but for me it's too much. I use matrix metering most of the time, too lazy I guess.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

The link to Sekonic webinars above is good. I've watched a few and found them helpful - they almost convinced me "not" to buy a meter and just expose to the right and do pp, but I bought a Sekonic meter anyway (a base model) - use it primarily for indoor portraits. The webinars do not use the term "Zone System" but that's the concept presented. Also, if you google exposing to the right there are tutorials with same concept. After you understand it you then do what makes sense to you - don't follow any script exactly, just get the concept and develop your own.

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

Excellent.