focus problems at horse events
Mar 31, 2013 09:38:39 #
chebe48 wrote:
Thanks guys, I am on 400ISO , F5.6 and speed up to 2500 of a second. Thanks for the advice in regard to using a single focal point. I was using a cluster in the centre of the images, and high speed shooting in order to catch the best action of the horse and rider.
I would think f11 would give you more DOF so the horse and rider are sharp. Question you really need ISO 400 outdoors to shoot, they seem a little dark. My guess is your shutter speed is to fast. I am guessing here but f11 at at 1/1000 sec. And an ISO OF 200 should work outdoors. Under reasonable light
Mar 31, 2013 09:39:46 #
Unfortunately, the first photo had no metadata. I would have liked to know more about your shooting such as the lens. The lens will, of course, matter. I think I detect a little post-processing sharpening.
But aside from that, I think the shutter is faster than what you really need. By slowing it a notch or two, you will increase your depth of field which should help with any focusing errors. My Canon 60D has a focusing mode that adjusts as needed. You might want to check your camera for something like this. Another suggestion is to shoot at high speed.
From my standpoint, the sharpness from a normal viewing distance is still very good. But, more importantly, these are very nice and interesting pictures. My favorite by far is the first one. Keep us posted as you tweak your technique.
But aside from that, I think the shutter is faster than what you really need. By slowing it a notch or two, you will increase your depth of field which should help with any focusing errors. My Canon 60D has a focusing mode that adjusts as needed. You might want to check your camera for something like this. Another suggestion is to shoot at high speed.
From my standpoint, the sharpness from a normal viewing distance is still very good. But, more importantly, these are very nice and interesting pictures. My favorite by far is the first one. Keep us posted as you tweak your technique.
Mar 31, 2013 10:12:28 #
Chebe48, I really like #1. I checked download and zoomed in. The upright posts both sides of the horse are sharp. As we can all see, both the horse and rider are slightly blurred. (Indicating slow shutter speed.) Your shutter speed was high so the H&R should have been pin sharp, too. I agree with the request for the exif info before betting on camera shake. (How can it be camera shake if the uprights are sharp?) Yep, more questions than answers.
Mar 31, 2013 10:25:39 #
rpavich wrote:
So far I looked at the first shot and this is what... (show quote)
That's something I forget often second series 3 and 4 very true
Mar 31, 2013 10:26:35 #
jim charron wrote:
some shots don't look so bad?
Try the other suggestions and sharpening in software.
Try the other suggestions and sharpening in software.
Very right of you 1 and 3 are
Mar 31, 2013 11:10:10 #
I've had a look at No2, where the horse and rider are blurred. This is due to a combination of motion blur, caused by the movement of the subject across the picture, and the focus being behind the subject, on the hedge, which is nice and sharp. You used 1/1000 for this, which is not fast enough. Try prefocussing on the point where the horse will be, then switch to manual focus without changing the focus. Use a faster shutter speed, and pan with the horse if you can. You can also fire off in burst mode, so that one shot at least should be OK.
Back-button follow focus is a good technique to practise for moving subjects. There is quite a lot about it on here, for example:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-100660-1.html
Do a search on here for "back button focus".
Good luck!
Back-button follow focus is a good technique to practise for moving subjects. There is quite a lot about it on here, for example:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-100660-1.html
Do a search on here for "back button focus".
Good luck!
Mar 31, 2013 11:15:35 #
I've read all the posts and I haven't seen mentioned a valuable technique when shooting action. In almost any action there is a split second when the action stops but the action is still evident. In the case of a basketball player, it's when he/she is right at the top of a jump, not still going up nor coming down. You time your shot, either single or burst mode, for when that split second occurs with the ball still in the picture to complete the story. In horse jumping, it's much like in track with hurdlers. This technique is referred to as "Peak of Action." Google it, study it, understand it, study your horses jumping, determine the optimum points when it occurs, and follow the other advice here. You should see some drastic improvement, get as close as possible, get the shutter speed up, use an f/stop that will give you a good dof, possibly use burst mode, pan with the action, and be steady. You have a beautiful subject and you're not that far off. Possibly studying peak of action and adding that in might go a long way in completing your desires.
Mar 31, 2013 12:49:00 #
chebe48 wrote:
Hi All,
I am becoming increasingly frustrated at not being able to capture realy sharp images when photographing horses in motion.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong.
Here are a couple of examples
I am becoming increasingly frustrated at not being able to capture realy sharp images when photographing horses in motion.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong.
Here are a couple of examples
I shoot World Cup Grand Prix events at Spruce Meadows/ Thunderbird Show Park and various others. Here are a few examples with the settings. Single focal area set at a fixed anticipated point on the course Download to full screen if you can. Hope this will help. CJ7
Nikon D3
Nikkor 200-400VR
White Balance/ Sunny Weather
ISO 200
Shutter Speed 1/500
Aperture f/11
10FPS High Speed Continuous
Anchored Tripod/ VR off
Remote Shutter Control
Mar 31, 2013 12:54:31 #
PipesCJ7 wrote:
I shoot World Cup Grand Prix events at Spruce Meadows/ Thunderbird Show Park and various others. Here are a few examples with the settings. Download to full screen if you can. Hope this will help. CJ7
Nikon D3
Nikkor 200-400VR
White Balance/ Sunny Weather
ISO 200
Shutter Speed 1/500
Aperture f/11
10FPS High Speed Continuous
Anchored Tripod/ VR off
Remote Shutter Control
Nikon D3
Nikkor 200-400VR
White Balance/ Sunny Weather
ISO 200
Shutter Speed 1/500
Aperture f/11
10FPS High Speed Continuous
Anchored Tripod/ VR off
Remote Shutter Control
excelllllent ................
Mar 31, 2013 13:10:05 #
Mar 31, 2013 13:12:37 #
chebe48
Loc: Leicestershire England
Thanks for the tip, I guess practice will make perfect in the end
Mar 31, 2013 13:14:04 #
[quote=chebe48]Very nice compositions. I looked at the first photo. A faster expensive lens would speed things up. I think you may have to go from ISO 400 to 800 or 1600. F 5.6 does not allow a very deep DOP (depth of field). I think 1/800 shutter should be fast enough to stop the motion. Just my guess. IMHO. David
Mar 31, 2013 14:21:06 #
I am by no means a good photographer, but I mix photography and horses with great love for both. One thing I CAN tell you is that photographing horses is not at all like anything else you shoot at!!!
Pay attention to these things when horses come into view.
Are you there to shoot horses are people?
Do you want to focus on the horse's eyes or the rider's eyes? No question for me. I am there for the horse!
With a moving horse, center focus may be your saving grace.
What Gessman says....PEAK ACTION is a MUST, MUST, MUST!!!! Watch the horses jump and study exactly when he is ABOUT TO start to unfold at the very height of his jump.
AND remember that very often, with any animal, a 3/4 angle, instead of a flat, side view or front view, can make the photo a shot to remember.
There's a ton of money to be made in horse and any pet photography. People REALLY want those pet photos. Ask me how I know. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Pay attention to these things when horses come into view.
Are you there to shoot horses are people?
Do you want to focus on the horse's eyes or the rider's eyes? No question for me. I am there for the horse!
With a moving horse, center focus may be your saving grace.
What Gessman says....PEAK ACTION is a MUST, MUST, MUST!!!! Watch the horses jump and study exactly when he is ABOUT TO start to unfold at the very height of his jump.
AND remember that very often, with any animal, a 3/4 angle, instead of a flat, side view or front view, can make the photo a shot to remember.
There's a ton of money to be made in horse and any pet photography. People REALLY want those pet photos. Ask me how I know. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Mar 31, 2013 16:15:54 #
The problem with the first two images is definitely slow shutter speed. In the first one the uprights are sharp - the one closer than the horse and the one further away. So it is not poor focusing and it is not camera shake. It is subject movement. You need to use a faster shutter speed or refine your technique. One trick that might help is to go to manual focus, focus on the thing the horse jumps over, then pan with the moving horse and shoot when he is at the top of the jump. Shoot several frames in CH (continuous high) starting when the horse leaves the ground and ending when he hits the ground. Oh, and use a monopod.
Mar 31, 2013 16:16:16 #
chebe48 wrote:
Thanks guys, I am on 400ISO , F5.6 and speed up to 2500 of a second. Thanks for the advice in regard to using a single focal point. I was using a cluster in the centre of the images, and high speed shooting in order to catch the best action of the horse and rider.
Actually the metadata says that your images were shot at 1/800th and one of them at 1/1000th. One was 800ISO and the other 2 at 400ISO. I think a camera setting adjustment for single point focus, as mentioned above, some more practice keeping the spot on the riders face, IS setting on your 100-400 set to position 2 for panning stabilization, and keeping your shutter to something above 1/1000th will improve your equestrian images. After you become more efficient at panning you can probably use a slower shutter speed.
In addition, you might try stopping down to f/8 for more DOF to keep such a large animal more in focus.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.