Posts for: WxGuesser
May 30, 2018 13:02:55 #
wdross wrote:
It probably is being created by the JPEG settings for your thumbnail image. That would probably be why you are seeing
a different image then it opens on the LCD or in Lightroom. You may be able to find a place in the menu on how to change the display settings for the thumbnail JPEG.
a different image then it opens on the LCD or in Lightroom. You may be able to find a place in the menu on how to change the display settings for the thumbnail JPEG.
Would you happen to know where that might be (in Lightroom and/or Photoshop)? There are so many options in the settings that even when I know the setting is there, I have trouble finding it.
May 29, 2018 22:03:12 #
AndyH wrote:
I look at my iPhone as being the equivalent of the... (show quote)
I most definitely do not bemoan the film days!!!!
May 29, 2018 21:59:09 #
I was there for 45min 8 years ago. (110deg was too much for my wife). While I did get some good pictures the one I wish to share just makes me shake my head. This guy should be nominated for the Darwin award.
May 29, 2018 21:13:33 #
I have a general question which I don't think is specific camera related although I have a Canon SX60 IS for those interested which I got for Christmas. When I take a picture with it the image shown on the LCD appears overexposed at least 2/3's a stop. When I open the image in Lightroom or Photoshop it has the same appearance. However, when I print it out, the colors and exposure match **exactly** the original subject. That is good, but it leaves me in a dilemma, what is my image, after editing **really** going to look like? I really hate to spend money on paper and ink just to get the print to look like what I have on the screen. BTW I have Photoshop, Lightroom, and my printer set to Adobe sRGB.
Apr 25, 2013 04:01:34 #
The first one you could post on one of the UFO sites and I'll guarantee that you will get people believing that you captured an image of a UFO! :D
Oct 19, 2012 01:48:17 #
natalietapley wrote:
Yep. The darned flash. Well at least this is where... (show quote)
Please let us know what happens, we are curious.
Sep 10, 2012 15:47:09 #
Amateur, I don't think that anyone has yet figured out what you are doing. Why don't you tell us your process step by step and attach your pictures (original and as they have been changed-be sure to use store original option)so we can try to do some detective work for you?
Sep 10, 2012 00:57:51 #
megbend wrote:
It is the same with Paint Shop Pro, we pay more than America, in the Australian Corel Site. I could not see why I had to pay so much more.
There must be something in the excise tax structure. When I visited Australia several decades ago I noticed that the prices of CD's were double that in the US and Japan.
Sep 10, 2012 00:46:48 #
wteffey wrote:
You might do this later in PS Elements with good results. You simply take two or more photos from exactly the same spot, with exactly the same settings,(a tripod makes it easier), then use the Photomerge Scene Cleaner. Worked like magic the few times I tried it, removing anything that moved between shots and replacing the empty spaces with the correct background. A little cloning finished the job.
Just about any software that has masks and layers will do. Just take several pictures with a tripod, so only the people change from image to image. Then in a new image put each picture in a different layer and just work your way through the layers masking out the people. I have found this is also a good way to take group pictures so that no one is yawning, or has eyes closed or is looking the wrong way etc.
Sep 10, 2012 00:41:37 #
You would spend years in western Oregon/Washington before you got pictures like that. We have about three thunderstorms a year and then it is usually 3-5 minutes between lightning strikes.
Sep 10, 2012 00:37:32 #
I started off on PaintShop pro (x2 and then x3). While it is a good program my biggest frustration is so little on line tutorials and help compared with Photo Shop. After I was able to buy P.S. on an educational discount I switched and never turned back. My feeling is if I can't get help on how to use a program then it's wasted money.
Sep 10, 2012 00:24:31 #
while this http://erikjohanssonphoto.com/work/ikea/ wouldn't bee too hard for most of us with PP skills to do, the concept was absolutely hilarious. That appears to be one of his strong skills to come up with an original concept.
Sep 9, 2012 23:55:09 #
amateur wrote:
Please advise: Property values of my photo's show that it is 5616 X 3744 pixels (which corresponds with my 21 MP camera) But whenever I send it to a DVD or a printing company via the internet the property value drops to 800 X 534 pixels, which is useless to print. Although my Canon 5D Mark II shoots Jpeg and RAW, Picasa which I use saves the photo's in Jpeg. My photo's are straight from the camera - no pp. Why am I loosing all my pixels and how do I prevent it?
Need more information. What program are you using to burn the pictures to CD? If you use something like Nero or even Windows via drag and drop, there should be no changes what ever. What company are you using to print? If I try to upload an 800 X 534 picture to Walmart to print on a mug their software complains that it is too low a resolution. They have printed on large format paper (18" x 12" ) a 2688 x 2112 pixel image for me.
Sep 7, 2012 02:32:55 #
Greg-Colo wrote:
I couldn't find anything in print to back up the 8fps, so i'll go with the 3.5 fps.... :-D
Fast enough unless you are trying to make video the hard way. (card flipping)
Sep 5, 2012 22:12:23 #
Skeezit wrote:
What candle?
Set the dial to SCN, press [set] scroll left or right until you see the candle icon. In the manual (p62) it's described as the low light mode, but in daylight I use it to increase the burst speed. It is a lower resolution but when you use burst you usually aren't going to do a lot of cropping anyway so you are good.