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Posts for: Metpin777
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Jan 22, 2018 21:51:15   #
Anybody use a macro lens for Portraits? Heard maybe they have great detail and sharpness, in my sights is the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro Lens , shooting with 80D, yes I realize focal length is different on crop sensor, FF next investment, opinions please and thank you
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Jan 14, 2018 11:03:04   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Nope, youtube is always hit and miss so what I may find interesting would be boring or out of subject for you.


Thank you
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Jan 14, 2018 10:40:00   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Best bet is for you to create them. Search youtube for tutorials.


Yes, You Tube and Google the almighty resource, do you have some favorite links ?
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Jan 14, 2018 09:58:31   #
Looking for links for PS brush presets please, just learning Photoshop, thank you
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Dec 4, 2017 23:41:19   #
rehess wrote:
Honestly, I doubt if camera shake will be noticeable at 1/250 - with film I took pictures of moving trains using that shutter speed. If you do have strobe lights {I'm not sure what "modeling lights" means in your second post} then you definitely don't have a problem, because they flash at something like 1/1000.


Cool thx, modeling lights are what I have learned is on a strobe is the light that stays on to adjust your light flow, shuts off when strobe activated, located in center of strobe, what does everyone else call it?
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Dec 4, 2017 08:38:04   #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
How much ambient light is there?
Looks like none.
If that is the case, your effective exposure time is the duration of the strobes, not your shutter setting.
Probably won’t see much shake at all.
Looking nice!


Modeling lights only, thanks
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Dec 4, 2017 07:50:21   #
Shooting motorcycles, Canon 80D, 1/250, 100 ISO , f5.6, 3 strobe lights, black background, How much camera shake will I get without tripod ? Will it be noticeable or is shutter speed fast enough ?current one is broken, Thank you!


(Download)
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Nov 29, 2017 07:55:07   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
SIZE COUNTS but distance is just as important. With any conventional photographic light source, that is one equipped with a parabolic reflector or a pan or dish type reflector with a center deflector (AKA "beauty dish") the degree of softness or evenness of the beam is greatly depended on the distance that the light source is placed from the subject. For head and shoulder, closeup and small group portraiture, where the main light will be placeed between 3 and 5 feet from the subject(s) a smaller dish or even a 16" feathered parabolic will do the trick. For full length portraits, larger groups or any scenario where the main light may be placed between 8 to 12 away from the subject(s) a larger dish or other modifier is recommended to maintain the same degree of softness and even spread of light that a closer distanced affords.

What many photographers, who are new to lighting theory, fail to realize that even a very large modifier like a giant umbrella is not all that soft and even at very far working distances.

Sometimes, a "beauty dish" ain't all the beautiful- well, it does not automatically provide a glamorizing or dramatic lighting. The basic concept of the beauty dish is the central deflector eliminates the so-called hot spot, however, a basic parabolic reflector with a hot spot and a certain degree of fall off at the edges enable FEATHERING, that is using the EDGE of the beam rather than the hot spot. This method reveals a natural skin texture and is compatible with many classical lighting forms such as "Rembrandt", butterfly, modified butterfly (loop) and split as well as hair and kicker lighting. This kind of unmodified parabolic lighting requires a more precise lighting placement and keen observation of the lighting's effect highlight and shadow placement and the subject's facial structure.

Many of the classical "Hollywood" portrait stylings were done with feathered parabolic or SPOT lighting.

Ain't nothin' wrong with a beauty dish. Besides portraiture, it's even beam can also be uses as a fill light source, for certain still life and product shots and interior architectural work.

Nowadays there are so many reflector configurations, light modifiers, bounce umbrellas, shoot-through umbrellas, soft-boxes, octo-boxes, scrims that are fitted to umbrellas and beauty dishes, hybrid soft-box/umbrella/ beauty dishes etc- it's enough to drive someone nuts! Each manufacturer touts their's as the best, the latest and the revolutionary one. If, however, you understand your lighting principles as to, to feather or not to feather, to use you hot spot or eliminate it, and the softness/distance effect and you study your ANGEL OF INCIDENCE theory you will easily cut through the confusion. If you have a medium sized beauty dish you can pop off the deflector and do some feathering. You can simulate many kinds of modification effects by varying the distance from you primarily light source to your umbrella surface.

Over the years, I have collected enough reflectors and modifiers to fill a warehouse. Many of them just wore out from hard use and needed to be replaced. Others were used for specific jobs like very slim soft boxes to light wine bottles (etc) and doubled as hair lights for group portraits. At the end of the day, I do most of my studio work with 3 modifiers and one set of dirty old parabolic reflectors and barn doors. Saves money!
SIZE COUNTS but distance is just as important. Wit... (show quote)


Very useful info, learning basics with OCF, thank you
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Nov 29, 2017 07:52:40   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Whenever I hear that term, I think the model must smile when he/she hears that the photographer is bringing out the Beauty Dish.


Lmao, thats funny
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Nov 27, 2017 00:10:37   #
CO wrote:
I have a Paul C. Buff 22" white beauty dish. It easily has enough coverage (130 degree beam spread). They have a formula on their website for calculating the coverage. The coverage is 2.14 times the distance between the dish and subject. Their silver beauty dish has a much narrower beam spread (45 degrees). The coverage for that dish is .83 times the distance between the dish and subject. I was doing some test shots when I first got it. You can see the dish on the right side. The distance between it and the fireplace is about 8 feet there. In the lower photo the dish was 2-1/2 feet from the wall. I actually measured the distance with a tape measure. I did a series of photos like this because I wanted to see if the center direct light blocker disc would create a darker central area. I didn't see that the central area was any darker than the outer portions.

I don't have experience with any other beauty dishes. It's possible that you can get coverage information from the manufacturers of the two beauty dishes you're looking at.
I have a Paul C. Buff 22" white beauty dish. ... (show quote)




Thanks, will go with 22
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Nov 26, 2017 14:19:27   #
Interested in purchasing a beauty dish. 22" vs 28", mostly photographing 1 or 2 subjects, will 22" be enough? Thank you
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Nov 12, 2017 18:37:03   #
brucewells wrote:
Go to the folder where your catalog file lives and see if there is a ‘lock’ file there. If so, delete it.


Yes that was it, thank you so much!!!
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Nov 12, 2017 18:09:38   #
Win 7 Professional, upgraded to LR classic, keeps saying "Lightroom catalog used by another program" error, not loading, worked fine before upgrade, went back to original version and downloaded again, same error, no programs running, PS and Br upgrade went fine, any ideas please?
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Oct 28, 2017 16:56:03   #
Saving my RAW files after editing from LR, Which has better quality uncompressed? and which is better for uploading? thank you
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Oct 16, 2017 12:41:25   #
Canon 80D, portraits, 1-4 subjects, studio and outdoors, just want to know what wattage strobes I would need please

300w. Or 500w, and do they have adjustable power outputs? Finding speedlights not enough power
Thank you
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