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Feb 21, 2017 22:57:06   #
minniev wrote:
(To see the alternate version, rotate the image to the right.)

Seriously, I would like some feedback on this one. I've been following Erich's excellent thread on Natural Abstracts, and reading on my own about this topic, which I find I have interest in but not specific knowledge. So, like I do whenever I find something interesting to study and experiment with, I am out trying new things.

All suggestions, edits, comments are appreciated. It is pretty much "as-shot", but I'm sure I'll do more with it, just not sure what.
(To see the alternate version, rotate the image to... (show quote)

Like it as-is! You might try reversing black & white.
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Feb 15, 2017 15:36:49   #
ebrunner wrote:
Next Monday we are having an informal "competition" (in quotes because the results don't count for anything and judging will be from members) with a theme of "abstract". This gave me a chance to experiment which is something I love to do. I came up with this idea. Just looking for impressions here. Not serious photography as such; but fun.
erich

You're onto something, here, Erich. Stick with it. I've been thinking along the same lines. May post some experiments myself if this thread keeps going. I understand the struggle to define "abstract" but it doesn't matter how or whether it's defined as long as it is what you believe you are doing to be.
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Feb 15, 2017 15:30:00   #
JD750 wrote:

This is a really good video, thank you for the link. Should be required viewing for serious Nikon users, as author Tony Northrup makes some right-on-the-money recommendations on what Nikon should be doing to enhance its line of DSLRs. Obvious stuff, such as hiring people who are really good programmers and who are adept at creating intuitive user interfaces, such as those produced for smartphones. It is so funny when he compares smartphone swipe-type, intuitive interfaces that have mind-reading search technology, with Nikon's seemingly unending stacks of menus that you have to practically memorize to use quickly.

He praises Nikon for getting out ahead of everybody on wireless communication with SnapBridge, and then slams it hard for the poor, unsatisfactory way it performs. He makes the point that, rather than listen to consumer complaints and immediately fix problems with its products, it makes a software or firmware product, installs it in a camera, and then walks away, not doing anything to update it when there are problems with it. And those are just two of a whole slew of suggestions that are spot on.

This is a long video, half an hour, but for my money worth every minute. Gives us die-hards hope.
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Feb 15, 2017 13:52:50   #
crazydaddio wrote:
Does anyone have experience with DxO Pro and Lightroom and can comment on the pros and cons? I have heard that the noise reduction capabilities of DxO Pro alone are worth makinr the investment.

I've used 'em both and prefer DxO. DxO does not try to manage your photos for you, which I prefer. Also, yes, its noise reduction capability is impresive. Not perect, but pretty good.
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Feb 12, 2017 17:27:20   #
legalese78 wrote:
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/02/things-you-didnt-want-to-know-about-zoom-lenses/


Excellent article, very informative. Thank you, Legalese.
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Feb 12, 2017 16:57:58   #
camerapapi wrote:
Interesting to me because it has not happened before with any of my SD cards or cameras. Using my Olympus EP-5 the card sometimes does not register all of the pictures I shoot. If I download to Photoshop and let's say I want to use Olympus Viewer editing program I get a window that tells me that the files are corrupted with Windows.???
If I delete the images sometimes they are back when I do a new download, very hard for me to explain.
I already thought my speedy SD card was corrupted and thrashed it. I think I made a big mistake because it was my best card but we learn something new every day.
If anybody has a clue to what is happening, I sure do not, please let me know. I already sent an email to Olympus to see if I can solve the mystery.
Thank you in advance.
Interesting to me because it has not happened befo... (show quote)
Camerapapi - The exact same thing started happening to me, coincidentally when I started using fast cards (95MB/s). Try transferring directly from the camera to the computer. If that works, then the card reader is the suspect. I went through several readers, all to no avail, until I tried Sandisk's Extreme Pro UHS-II SDHC/SDXC Reader/Writer (B&H, $17.99). That did the trick. Also, the readers who mention that USB1 & USB 2 ports (due to their slower read speeds) could be part of the issue are correct. However, the Sandisk card does not seem to care (mine plugs into a USB2 port).
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Feb 10, 2017 15:52:36   #
boomer826 wrote:
. I tried focusing on different subjects at the same distance and different lighting and contrast, but still would not confirm focus. Thanks for your reply !!
Boomer - Does this happen with other lenses at 28mm (or their widest angle)? The D7100 is not known to have this kind of problem; however, it does allow you to adjust focus accuracy if a lens focuses improperly. Suggest that you take some (measurement) test shots and see if you can recreate and then identify the problem.
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Feb 10, 2017 14:17:06   #
pinkkie wrote:
I am looking to purchase a used canon 5d mk II body only from a retailer with whom i've done business...it is advertised as excellent++ condition, with
90-96% of its original condition. however, i am curious about the shutter count which is 125.. the sn# begins with a couple zeros which i considered first
generation. can this be real? i need your feedback
If the camera is a factory refurb and the shutter was replaced as part of the process, then the shutter count would revert to zero and the number you see is the number of actuations since the camera was refurbed, including the test shots taken by Nikon, plus the demo shots at the dealer's. -George-
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Feb 10, 2017 14:09:30   #
boomer826 wrote:
I have a Nikon D7100 and have a Tamron 28-75 mm f2.8 lens on it. I was using the center focus point on it yesterday. I noticed if I tried to focus on something in the 28mm setting,and it was fairly far away from me, I could not get focus confirmation. If I zoomed in on the subject then I would get focus confirmation. It did not seem to matter what I tried to focus on. If it wasn't fairly close to the camera, I could not get focus confirmation in the wider angle setting. Don't know why this is , would appreciate any help I can get with this issue.
I have a Nikon D7100 and have a Tamron 28-75 mm f2... (show quote)
Possible lack of contrast in the scene. I've experienced this with wide angle housing development shots, where the houses all were the same relative tone as each other and the same as the landscape around the houses. Lots of focus searching. Finally had to find some contrast at the right distance, freeze focus, and shoot.
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Feb 9, 2017 15:21:06   #
St3v3M wrote:
Looks pretty low cost! S-
Yeah, that's the point. I just bought two soft boxes and a backdrop . . .

Wish I'd-a thought of this.
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Feb 9, 2017 15:17:04   #
RedArrow wrote:
George, It is amazing that they do not collide a cause serious injuries.
Same goes for fish in a school. Wish these animals could teach some people how to drive.
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Feb 9, 2017 15:07:44   #
RedArrow wrote:
I was working the rice growing area of Southwestern Louisiana and stumbled across a tens of thousands Snow and Blue Geese in the rice fields.
I was on a back road and the light was fading and with brutally high ISO the image quality is poor but still a sight to see.
Some really good captures here. Like esp. #4.
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Feb 9, 2017 15:02:47   #
St3v3M wrote:
How To Make A DIY Photography Studio At Home
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiVVWiqTnQc
Hope my wife doesn't see this . . .
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Feb 9, 2017 14:57:31   #
Thank you!
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Feb 9, 2017 01:18:04   #
ebrunner wrote:
By all means. I'm just learning this technique and all information and edits are welcome. Thank you.
Erich
Thanks, Erich. The question as I understand it revolves about learning the ability of the sensor to record detail at the extreme ends of the histogram, and using that to decide whether to add EV (overexpose) or deduct EV (underexpose) when shooting - to push the image toward storing more detail. Then having taken the picture, pull the detail out in post. This would then influence whether you shot with +EV or -EV as a standard.

In the samples below, check the histograms. While there is still irretrievable detail at the extreme ends of the images, the retouched versions both show almost the same amount of ultimate loss - namely, not much. Maybe a bit more is preserved in #3, but to confirm that you would have to have everything the same except for EV. So, for the images chosen, it really is hard to say whether more detail is preserved in either over or under. It is also possible that the D7100 doesn't favor one over the other.

As an aside, I agree with those who opt to try to get the right exposure, meaning to keep the pixels within the confines of the histogram, and not try to "cheat the camera" to get more detail. Personally my default setting is -0.3EV.

FWIW

Original image

(Download)

Detail pulled out, image cropped to pull closer

(Download)

Original image

(Download)

Detail pulled out, cropped to pull closer

(Download)
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