Here are a couple of pics using that lens from last night (minor edits with Topaz Sharpen and Studio). It was freaking cold on the shores of Lake Ontario. My finger were so cold I couldn’t feel the shutter button.

Yes that would ruin the lens. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks all for the replies.
I’ll look for electricians tape in my oil bag. Presume you mean a strip of tape parallel to the lens and not around the barrel of the lens?

I couldn’t see anyplace on the lens that those parts.

I’ll give the lens a workout tonight in another 45 minutes or so for sunset and then wait a bit for the full moonrise.🤞🤞

After stepping away from recreational photography for an number of years, I am currently assembling my new (for me) kit of a Nikon D750 and glass, I came upon a Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 70-210mm 1: 4. This manual focus lens though confusingly noted as an E series lens, is the old E series, and research indicated that it would fit on my D750, and indeed that was the case.

The purchase price of this lens was a steal at CAD$50 so even if it is a dud, I’m not losing much. The lens came complete with a lens case and lens cap but no rear end cap, though when in its case, the attached lid compresses on to the exposed end of the lens holding it snugly in place. If the lens case is original, it’s impressive that after 40 years the foam inside the cap shows no sign of breaking down, thus reducing my concern that bits of foam will enter the lens.

In any case, I’m hoping some of the old Nikon lens aficionados can answer a couple of questions.

The lens has a trombone style zoom/focus ring with the ring closest to the camera body at 210 mm. The ring slides forward to 70 mm focal length. A problem that became immediately noticeable was that the weight of the zoom ‘trombone’ zoom/focus ring causes it to slide back from 70 mm towards the camera body when the camera is tilted up, as in taking a pic of something in the sky. It’s probably not going to be a big deal because I’m more likely to be taking a pic at full zoom length of 210 mm with the camera pointing towards the sky, in which case the zoom/Focus ring will be snug at the bottom of the lens body with no downward movement of the ring possible.

My question would be how to keep the zoom length fixed when wanting to take a pic at something other than 210 mm ie 100 mm, with camera pointing up? This would require keeping the zoom ring from sliding back towards the camera. Sure I can try to hold it with my fingers, but I think camera shake would increase.

Another question is, does anyone know what these extra parts (see first 2 pics) are the the seller provided? Seller had no idea what they were other than that they were in the lens case.

Initial pics look sharp btw.

Many thanks in advance.

Former green peace terrorists from the 80's would be in their fifties at least. It seems that the current crop of terrorists are very young and would not fit your description. Only a young naive person would believe they are going to heaven to be served by a hundred nymphs if they become suicide bombers.

Are you going to stretch the canvas on stretcher bars?

If yes, is the frame size you want 48" x 16"?

If yes again, and you want to wrap the image around the sides of the frame, you actually need to print about 53" x 21" for 1-1/2" stretcher bars.

What size of cell can you get in Lr>Print module?

I think there is a way to downsize your canvas in Photoshop without cropping, though my knowledge of Ps is at the beginner stage so I cannot help you there.

Agree, let alone dried print heads!

I have a Stylus Pro 9900 that I never turn off. I doubt it uses much power.

Not sure what program you are using to print, but make sure that your paper profile was not inadvertently changed to the wrong one.

Same thing in the print driver, where you select the print media.

Lastly, if your printer allows, make sure you select the correct media from its on-printer menu.

Ummm.....unprotected from what, while in Canada?

A lens I am looking at on Henrys.com is CAN $899, which is about US $612 plus currency surcharges. On B&H same lens is US $799. The OP is right. Buy Canadian now but check import duties as well which might reduce the spread, though, when buying from B&H, to ship to Canada, duties are very low. Might be low duty applied from Canada to th US.

[quote=bkellyusa]I am not being mean and I don't know what may have been going on with the A6000 you tried but from your comments it is obvious that you don't understand what EVF is or how big the advantages are. I think EVF alone is nearly as big an advancement is mirrorless is. Now that I have it I wouldn't consider owning a camera without it. As it is, it is such a big improvement over optical I can't imagine that there is anyone who would prefer it over and EVF.[/quote

I understand what an EVF is and strange but true, I prefer the optical version.

You and the other poster exhort the benefits of an EVF vs optical but fail to list them. Please enlighten me.

Nice to be so emphatic that I'm wrong, when you appear to not have your facts straight.

I wish you were more specific as to what your magic EVF will do better than the viewfinder on my D800. All important data that I need to see, is visible in my viewfinder.

My viewfinder is @ 100% and a pentaprism.

Some DSLR viewfinders are 95%. Some DSLR viewfinders are pentaprism, and some are Pentamirror. Both, in my experience, offer brighter and larger views than the cameras mentioned below.

The viewfinders I used most recently on point and shoot cameras (Nikon P530 and P900) as well as that if the Sony a6000, while adequate for their owners, are very small and dim in comparison to my viewfinder. You say I'm wrong. I'm basing this on very recent experiences. Are you suggesting that the users unknowingly have the setting on their EVF set to dark and small? I appreciate your comment about not having any first hand experience with the a6000. It might have been more forthright had you had mentioned that in your first post.

Not sure what you mean that the EVF on the a6000 will do things impossible in an optical only viewfinder. Also, my post was an opinion on a DSLR viewfinder vs P&S/a6000/mft, not vs optical only viewfinder, whatever that is....

I don't want my viewfinder to "do things", rather I want the view of my subject to be bright. The view of the subject in EVF's are dark and it seems like I'm looking in a tunnel, as is the case on a a6000.

Agree!

The optical viewfinder on my DSLR is much better than the viewfinders on every point and shoot camera and the A6000 that I have used. The view is small and dark. If you can't 'see' your subject, how is the composition of your shot? Then there is the LCD screen used exclusively on phones and some point and shoot cameras that are totally is useless in daylight. Until the viewfinder improves on point and shoot or mft cameras, I know that I would never buy one.

And while some cell phone pictures can be great, for most of us, blow them up a bit and you will see that most cell phone pics have motion blur.

I use Lightroom CC (2015).

in Lr>Develop>Spot healing tool (either in heal or clone mode)

Clicking on an area in the picture does not highlight the suggested area from which to heal or clone the original spot selected. ie when clicking, there should be a two areas connected with a solid line, and one should be able to move one of the areas to select the area from which I want to heal or clone the selected spot.

I only became aware of this function when I installed Lr on a second PC of mine, the Spot healing tools works differently than the version I have on my main PC. I have updated my original download of Lr to the most recent update.

Thanks for any assistance offered.