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Posts for: CraigFair
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Mar 27, 2017 12:21:44   #
nikonshooter wrote:
I use an IR/UV cut filter on the Atik but that is it.

This is for Sonny - if you re-read my post - I am in total agreement with you about the "up real colors" but I also refer to the operative word "relative". We know what colors gases emit on the color spectrum - Hubble was the best guess for translating those emissions if hydrogen, oxygen, sulfur, iron, helium and on.... into a palette that can serve as a baseline - is it color accurate - I guess we may never know but it allows me to work on my image's relative color to be as close to Hubble as I can. It's part of the fun inherent in photography to strive or color consistency. So if I shoot one part of the sky one night.....and months later, with a different scope, camera, take the same part of the sky....the stars in one, hopefully with consistent with the color of the stars in the other. For me that is important. I am not taking a position on artistic imaging (heavy handed use of PS) vs purist imaging (no retouching)...which is laughable because the choice of the lens alters the image, the in camera settings alter an image - in short there is no way to not influence an image even if you leave the camera settings unchanged - even then you made choices determines the image. I spent a lot of time in a dark room (only developed B/W) but long before photoshop I was making Ansel Adams type changes to image using dodge and burn techniques as well as other dark room adjustments.

We have some pretty interesting debates in our photo guild about this topic......I tell my naysayers, "when they get honest with themselves, they will end agreeing with me" which always serves to piss them off.

BTW, I have a decision to make - go to a star party next Saturday or go to Arizona and photograph the final four - Unversity of South Carolina is playing! Go figure. But getting a floor pass is going to be highly unlikely, the Spartanburg Herald Journal is working on it and I will know later today. I will pay my way there and back, flights - they pick up the rest....and I will get paid for the pics - I will own - I have to provide 50 for the paper the rest our mine to do with as I see fit.......so I can broker them the other outlets. It should more than enought pay for my flights and rental car. Obviously I will go if I can get on the floor.
I use an IR/UV cut filter on the Atik but that is ... (show quote)

Good luck Ed I hope you are able to get your floor pass. And look forward to seeing some shots in the photo section in UHH???
Craig
 
Mar 27, 2017 11:31:04   #
nikonshooter wrote:
I have no problem removing them....what I want to do is to be able process an image bringing out the star's original colors (color that is relative to the rest of the image). I am not a purist but I like my images to be color balanced correctly - if that is done then I should be getting close to the real color configuration of the global image. True, my colors my be totally different from what is really up there but they will all be relative to each other. For example, if I use the hubble palette, then my colors (when properly color balanced) should be reasonably close to those images taken by the hubble cam. From what I have read - the hubble palette is close to identifying the colors produced by the gases suspected to exist in these DSO. I guess we will never know! True color is the bane of all photographers!

As long as I am using a mono camera (with filters, R,G,B,Ha,Oiii,and Sii) then to get what I want....I need data from all. Glad I have an automated 7 position filter wheel. I have another solution - to mount a tandem DSLR or Atik383L OSC (better option) and take the stars from that camera and scope and take at the same time I am shooting Narrowband. I am still thinking on how I can do this quicker.
I have no problem removing them....what I want to ... (show quote)

Hi Ed, do you use any filters on your Atik 383L One Shot Color Camera????
I just got the QHY10 OSC Camera and am wondering about filters to use???
Craig
Mar 26, 2017 18:22:35   #
SonnyE wrote:
So far so good. As I expected.
I really expected they would merely slip a new board in the substantial housing.
But an entire new unit is a treat.
Great folks!

And Thanks to Matthew for recommending them in the first place. Cured all ailments.



Craig
Mar 26, 2017 14:58:49   #
SonnyE wrote:
The CFO said no.
Heck of a deal though. 1/4 of the M$RP, 1 year warranty.

Why did Celestron discontinue this camera?

According to their calculator, ideal focal length (telescope) was 489 mm. Mine is 480 mm.
S_it.

Celestron decided that they did not want to compete in the highend camera market but have plenty of decent planetary cameras.
You can ask Jim. Anyway I did love the Celestron 8300 but the the weak USB conector did me in I am glad the have fortified it.
I plan on sending my old one in and get it refurbished. Any questions anyone may have please ask.
Mar 26, 2017 00:01:53   #
nikonshooter wrote:
That's probably what I am up against. If you make a global color adjustment - changing the color of one star, changes the color of all stars. So, shooting RGB along with the NARROW band processing both separately and loading both as layers in PS .....and paint them in with a mask would work....or I could using a blending filter using "difference" that might work. But the time it took to get enough NB data was a gracious plenty.....and then to add RGB - wow. I think I can get CLOSE to the same detail with either the Atik383L OSC or either Nikon. What am I saying - this is probably the best detail for the so so 'seeing" nights I had ever. Holy smoke it takes a lot of imaging to get a good image using mono.
That's probably what I am up against. If you make... (show quote)

I have a fair amount of patience but no where near enough to get hrs of mono/filter shots that you guys are willing to put into it. I do appreciate all your hard work and beautiful pictures.
Craig
Mar 23, 2017 16:54:28   #
nikonshooter wrote:
Well done! I spent five different days on this animal and got loads of data then "F"ed it up in post processing. All Narrowband with twice the Ha, and Oiii, than Sii. I need to revisit this data and redo. My stars are all blue and the flower is over saturated but the detail is some of my best.

I took this with the new ASI1600MM-cool camera. Actually my first images taken when I got the camera.

Great detail Ed.
Craig
 
Mar 22, 2017 21:15:17   #
Europa wrote:
Thanks Craig. I took these from my backyard at the end of December, with my normal, QHY12/Rasa...it was 107 lights of 180 seconds. PP in Photoshop. The color thing is always difficult, when its in PS it looks one way, then when I open it, or upload, the color and brightness is different. Sometimes takes me a dozen tries saving it with the misc changes to get it took look better outside of PS.

I figure there must be some setting in PS that is giving it a different look, just have to figure out how/where to change it. Sometimes, I just save to my iPad and fix the color/bright adjustments from there, then upload them. But I think it may lose some details when I do that.
Thanks Craig. I took these from my backyard at the... (show quote)

In your save-as do you have the ICC Profile: Adobe 1998 box checked. Does that make any difference???
Craig
Mar 22, 2017 19:27:23   #
Europa wrote:
Some day our skies will clear and can get new images, until, just have to play around with reprocessing older images. I can never get the color to be the same once I leave Photoshop. Maybe setting somewhere in PS???

Beautiful shots Brian. I don't seem to lose any color in Lightroom. I've never been able to learn PS. I need to take a class at the C College. I would guess there are YouTubes out there somewhere. Did you use the QHY12? What setup, camera and processes.
Craig
Mar 20, 2017 18:53:14   #
Europa wrote:
Thanks Craig, I did remove the cover plates and everything "seems" okay. I'm assuming they don't require much grease, there was a little. I'm wondering if there are ball bearings somewhere that need grease? I leave the mount out (covered) all of the time and with the damp weather we have had, maybe they are rusting. I see signs of rust on the counter weights and counter weight bar.

I'm pretty sure they would use Worm Gear Bearings. There are articles about hypertuning your mount and I have read one of those and did some of the work: Cleaning gears then Lithium Grease & removing some of the backlash in the worm drives. You can buy a whole kit to replace bearings etc.
Here is a quote from an expert: ""Unfortunately, I do not have a DVD on the CGE Pro. That mount is fairly difficult to work on and requires some tools and materials that are a little less common for most people so I have been hesitant to complete a DVD for it"".
https://www.deepspaceproducts.com/hypertune-service-for-the-celestron-cge-pro-mount_8_4226_9319.html
Good luck Brian. I don't know your mechanical abilities but it's something to consider before attacking.
I just assume your talking about the CGE Pro mount.
Craig
Mar 20, 2017 14:52:14   #
Europa wrote:
Thanks guys. Since is been so crappy out, I either play with old imagines, or lately been working on alignment and guiding. Playing around, I noticed some spots where I hear squeaky kind of noise from gear boxes...I'm thinking it may need some grease??? Have you guys had to do this to your mounts?

Hey Brian if you are using the CGE Pro mount it has some easily removed cover plates over the worm drives.
You may want to use a cloth soaked in alcohol to remove the old grease first before using a Celestron
approved grease. Now the squeaky noise, I'm wondering if you have a worn gear or a misalignment of gears???
I know the Celestron's wrrrrrrrrr slightly when slewing but are almost silent when guiding. Any other sounds are
suspicious to me. You do want a slight amount of backlash in the worm gear setup. If the gears are to sloppy
or too tight will cause excess noise.
Craig
Mar 19, 2017 15:01:10   #
SonnyE wrote:
Beautiful Brian!

I just marvel at the imaging you can get.

I agree with Sonny, Brian, wonderful work.
Craig
 
Mar 18, 2017 20:29:50   #
Curve_in wrote:
OK, I'm getting the hang of this. The moon rise was happening at 11 so I shot these 30 second images starting at 8:15 and ended at 10:45. 17 mm shot at 2.8. I did the RAW adjustments using a linux program Darktable and then combined them using GIMP. After looking at the image for a while, I made it less Blue and darkened the house but left one window bright. I don't think I'll make longer trails than these.

Wonderful work Curve. You are really getting the hang of this.
Craig
Mar 18, 2017 12:46:11   #
SonnyE wrote:
I use a Nikon 10-24mm wide angle lens on my D3300.
But I usually have it around 18mm, IIRC.
Basically, I look at what will be around the frame of my shot, and dial the zoom accordingly to include or exclude foreground.
So I don't really pay that much attention to my zoom factor.

(I often fly by the seat of my pants... )
(Looking for Planets Aligned, I wound up with The Space Station. In 30 second exposures. )
I use a Nikon 10-24mm wide angle lens on my D3300.... (show quote)

Very nice job Sonny. I always love watching ISS.
Craig
Mar 18, 2017 01:27:18   #
JimH123 wrote:
Why don't you post what attachment thing you purchased so that others may benefit?

Thanks

https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/accessories/canon-nikon-lens-adapter-qhy8-10-12/
Here you go Jim H this is the only QHY to Canon/Nikon Lens adapter setup I could find
and I bought one and it fits my Nikon Lenses. I also got the tripod adapter for a tripod
or my adapter plate I made to go on my Celestron CGEM Mount.
Craig
Mar 17, 2017 13:10:44   #
Europa wrote:
I believe he is referring to The Photographer's Ephemeris App.

Thanks Brian I think it might be a very good app. It will get him dialed into the Moon phases​ for his night shoots. I'm going to look at it for myself too.
Craig
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