Thanks again everyone. It just goes to show you, if your willing to spend the money there is something out there for everyone. The one thing I did pick up on is that due to the actual length of the eclipse and the fact that the sun only moves 1/4 of a degree each minute it may be a moot point. I think testing would be the best way to find out and the closer to the time of the eclipse the better or more accurate it is going to be.
The sun's apparent diameter is 1/2 of a degree. If the figure you have (1/4 degree per minute) is correct, then it is going to be moving half of its width each minute... One way to test without having an actual eclipse is to work on the moon instead. The moon is very close to the same apparent size (or else eclipses wouldn't work...), so you can see just how much it moves during a given exposure. It does move *slightly* slower than the sun (25 hours to come back to the same spot in the sky vs 24), but I think this would be close enough.
Also, don't forget about the magnification of telephoto lenses... If you use a wide-to-normal focal length (50mm lens gives a sun/moon image of 1mm on a full frame sensor), you will be looking at a dot. With longer lenses, you are not only magnifying the *size* of the image, you are magnifying the *speed* across the frame too...
Given your investment in the event, you really need to do some significant testing beforehand, or you will be severely disappointed. On the day, there are going to be millions of people completely disgusted at their cellphone images!
Whatever you do - do *NOT* point your camera at the sun outside of totality unless you have a proper solar filter on the lens. This should be obvious to everyone, but who knows? You will seriously damage your camera, and if you look at the sun through a telephoto lens and no filter, you will remember the sight for ever. Probably be the last thing you see in that eye...
Pop over to the astrophotography section and check us out. We don't bite very often!
No, not mine. I can only wish I could aspire to this level....
But way to wonder filled to not share.
Thanks to my friend Bruce!https://vimeo.com/214616715
And the music is great, too!
Go full screen, go loud, and share!
Great camera work, but I can't agree about the music... Scenes like that demand soothing, tranquil music, not thumping bass! I've done a few daytime timelapses, but never tried at night - takes me enough struggling to get single photos!
Yes, an eye on the scope is required to accomplish... (
I can't get up from a kneeling position, without something pretty sturdy to pull myself up on... There would be this nice sturdy tripod there, right in front of me, but could never get up without moving it a bit, I'm sure.
I have looked at a couple of tripods which would probably do the job, but big plus sturdy = $$$... Don't even need to be light, since I am only a few feet from the car at my only darkish-sky spot.
Yeah, I don't see how I could be sitting down and still get my eye to that. That was what I thought when I first saw the device advertised... The only way I think I could do it is to spend $$$ on a big, solid tripod. I have several, and they are fine at 'normal' height, but to get that alignment, I would need to extend the center column, which is asking too much, I suspect.
Yes, I could experiment,but I was hoping for a definitive answer.
On *this* forum???
The answer will end up depending on whether you use Canon or Nikon (yes, I saw what your cameras are, but you might get over that someday...) and whether the card contains jpegs or RAW images! Not to mention if you shot in auto mode..
There isn't a smiley for 'tongue-in-cheek', but I hope it is obvious here that I am not serious...
We live in Southern New Jersey, USA and we went to visit the Freedom Tower in Manhattan. On the way back on the Staten Island Ferry, (which is FREE) I took this shot. Hope you like it. Colors are a little off with this upload. I don't know why.
So it's free now? My last visit, in 1990 (first weekend in the US...), it cost 10 cents - but you could stay on as long as you liked! I went back and forth several times... It definitely gives the best viewpoint for the statue.
Good to see you online. You've been quiet lately.
Yes, I have been learning the art of stretching without blowing the highlights.
I know... I check the forum every day, but haven't had anything to post in so long. Health stuff... I took some photos of my church's new softball team in their first game this week, and it suddenly struck me that this is the first time I have picked up one of my cameras since last September...
Additionally, it is so quick to align that you are not in the uncomfortable position long.
It isn't just discomfort which gets in the way. If I get down 'low', then I cannot get up without pulling up on something, and if I use the tripod, that is going to mess up the alignment... I have had serious back issues since a car accident many years ago, and with dealing with that and the logistics around it, both my knees are pretty much shot...
I'm basically falling apart at the seams!
You can also use a chair to sit while you align. This is how I do it.
Don't you need to be able to get your eye up to the device? I just find it hard to picture the process, and don't want to spend a bunch of money on something that I only use once and put on a shelf - too much stuff like that already!
Some shots from Jan 15. Used a m4/3 camera that is modded for full spectrum along with a Samyang 135mm f2. I stacked 24 images. At ISO 1600, and at f2.0, my histogram was at 50% with only an 8 sec exposure.
But the big difference is that I boosted the color saturation a lot and found some color. Did all my stretching and adjustment in Photoshop. And it has me encouraged.
Nice! You have managed to pull quite a lot of detail from the outer edges without completely blowing out the core...
I've been thinking about one of these for quite a while... Trouble is, I would also need to spend a fortune on a tripod tall enough to let me polar align it. Health issues prevent my bending into the required 's'-shape! Maybe one day...
I have seven folders set up in SyncBack for backin... (
I use syncback pro, but I seem to remember that this procedure is the same. I have several external drives which I use for backup. One of them is kept unplugged from the power and the PC, in case of electrical mayhem. Sometimes when I plug it in, it will be allocated a different drive letter, and of course that backup will immediately fail.
If you select the required backup profile in syncback, and click the modify button, you will get a dialogue which allows you to add files etc. to that profile. At the top of the screen are boxes with the source and destination drives. Just click on destination, and change it to the current drive letter of your desired spot. Bob is your then your parent's proverbial brother!
Hope this helps...
Reading other posts, I see you have found a more intricate solution. This one is worth bearing in mind for future use, though.
That was the title supplied by the videographer and I have to agree that it is a little misleading. Looking at the video clearly shows that they were talking about thermal springs. Maybe the videographer was Greek and didn't speak English too well?
Maybe he didn't, but *you* do... I presume that you watched the video before posting it? You didn't think of changing your title to something a bit closer to the actual content?
Volcanic springs! Not volcano!
Your title *and* the actual link both distinctly say "volcano", and "spitting water into sea". Talk about clickbait...!