Jerry, Best appearance is achieved with oval head screws.
jerryc41 wrote:
I want to buy washers that some with screws, and the washer rises a bit so it's almost flush with the head of the screw. I thought they might be called shoulder washers, but the pictures I see of shoulder washers aren't what I want. What are those washers called?
Everything returned to normal immediately after I posted my question. I still am curious about why the problems cropped up.
Recently I installed Windows 10. Several of my Watched Topics did not appear in the daily edition. I immediately followed directions for adding to my Watched Topics list. However, a Watch-button was not available. Admin has not responded to my requests for assistance.
"LOCKED" appears at the top of the opening page. Is this causing the problem? What did I do to cause it?
Your advise will be appreciated.
Manglesphoto wrote:
Very nice image
The power lines seen in the download bother me, maybe they could be cloned out .
It appears to be a pasture fence, not power line.
Jerry, Your bias is showing. In 2014 Chevron paid $20-billion in US income taxes, and Exxon-Mobile paid $31-billion.
jerryc41 wrote:
Price fixing? In the oil industry? How could you even think such a thing?! :D
When there is even a hint of a problem in the Middle East, gas prices go up. When oil prices go down, gas prices don't change, or they go up. All these guys want is record profits. They don't pay taxes, and they get government subsidies. Price fixing is the last thing to worry about.
Health issues and other matters imposed a hiatus for me on all things photographic. Hence this delayed follow-up.
Thanks to all of you who participated in the initial conversation. Special thanks go to Leitz for providing an exploded diagram of the entire mechanism. Here it is again for those who want to follow along.
http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/2747/media_document/live_2/394_20030407.pdf?1272346407One of you suggested that the mechanism was overly tight, and that some people reported sanding the paint on the base plate (R394.01) eased up things. Application of 180-grit sandpaper, glued to a flat hardwood block, created almost no sanding dust. However, two pinpoints of bright metal appeared. An emery board (i.e. nail file) quickly flattened them and removed some paint.
The remounted locking lever (R410.15) encountered no resistance to movement. It turns out that the only thing designed to resist movement of the locking lever is a coil spring (second part down from the top in R354.08).
One end of that spring engages a hole in the top hex nut. The other end engages a slot in the locking lever.
The spring must be pre-tensioned after mounting the locking lever subassembly on the pivot assembly (R354.08). Holding the bottom screw and turning the top hex nut was no easy task.
The faces on the hex nut are so shallow that a standard socket wrench does not reliably hold the nut. A sharp-edged adjustable end wrench* worked, provided I maintained sufficient thumb pressure on the jaws to keep it engaged on the nut. (*I do not own a suitable open-end metric wrench.)
QR 394 now operates slick as a whistle.
All best, Leo
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Hi tarfun. I had the same issue with my Manfrotto 498RC4 ball head. I use it with a D610 and a Sigma 150-600S. It's a heavy rig. I couldn't get mine to release smoothly and I had to send it to CRS service in Arizona. They service Manfrotto equipment here in the U.S., and did a great job with a fast turn-around in less than 10 days. I'd totally recommend them. B&H and Manfrotto distribution also recommended them.
Here's their info:
Manfrotto Service@CRIS
250 N. 54th Street
Chandler, AZ 85226
(480)940-1103
Hi tarfun. I had the same issue with my Manfrotto... (
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Nikon_DonB, Called them first. They never returned my call. Very strange.
gmb3 wrote:
I really like the ARCA-Swiss style. Very universal. I converted my Bogen-Manfrotto pistol grip ball head to the ARCA style. Never looked back. All my tripods and equipment are now fitted with ARCA-Swiss quick releases and plates.
However, YMMV.
gmb3, Thanks for the Arca-Swiss QR comment, I am thinking of converting.
warrior wrote:
Whoa!! Have you tried given it s hot of WD-40? :)
Have not yet tried that Warrior. May give it try. If so, will post results. Still wondering how to untighten the QR.
Jim Bob wrote:
Excellent description of how to use the quick release.
Appreciate your input Jim Bob.
jcboy3 wrote:
Millismote described the correct procedure for operating this QR adapter.
The locking lever (black) should move halfway without depressing the safety lever (silver). This is a friction lock; it moves when pressure is applied. Nothing will suddenly release it. There is a stop at the halfway point where the safety catch prevents further movement; this is the point where pushing the safety lever in will release the safety catch and allow the lever to move all the way. When the lever is moved the full distance, a brass rod will pop up (on the inside) to hold the lever in the open position. This will also pop the QR plate up. The QR plate will release this lock when it is pressed back in.
Because this is a friction lock, if you press hard on the lever to lock it, it will be difficult to unlock. However, you have released the friction lock per your description; so it will move. Just apply consistent force to move the lever to the stop, then press in the safety lever and move it to the open position.
Millismote described the correct procedure for ope... (
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Thanks jcboy3. The problem is the lever will not move. MT Shooter suggested I had over-tightened the QR by applying excessive pressure on the locking lever. My response to him asked how I can eliminate the overly tight condition. Am awaiting his response. Do you know the answer?
RRS wrote:
Before you buy another one you could mail this item to me and I will do my best to make it work. I also use Manfrotto and have never had a problem. This isn't a joke, I can fix almost anything. Do you not have a friend near by that is into photography too. PM me if you like.
Thanks RRS. I once thought I could fix almost anything. I hope to do so with the QR394. I will get back to you later.
DaveO wrote:
How about a camera shop where you might "look" at different qr's like a 394? Not tasteful, but it may be difficult to solicit help for a product you purchased somewhere else. Any clubs around?
Dave, Nearest camera shop is 40 miles from here. There are a couple of clubs. They meet in the evening, but I am shying away from driving after dark. Your suggestions are appreciated.
MT Shooter wrote:
The Manfrotto 394 is the replacement mount for the 410 plate commonly referred to as the RC4 QR system. The RC4 is designed for larger format cameras or heavy video gear and as such takes a lot more pressure to release than the RC2 system. The security latch is the chrome button on the lever and that has to be depressed before the latch lever will move, it is stiff to press because of the load rating. If you have tried to force the lever without pressing the button then the lever gets very heavily locked in position because of the ramp-latch style of the plate. Never use force on these latches as it will work against you every time.
Depress the button, pull the lever, it will come loose, but may take some force due to the pressure you have applied to the latch by now. If you bought this head/plate new it came with a breakdown drawing detailing the operation. If you bought it used then they may have been lost.
Follow this procedure and it will open.
By the way, the RC4 is not a good choice for a DSLR type camera as it is pretty much overkill for what you are doing.
The Manfrotto 394 is the replacement mount for the... (
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Thank you Carter.
The 394 came with the 055 pan tilt head. I have the drawing detailing the operation of the quick release. The original had the same defect. My botched attempt to repair it led me to buy the replacement. I found it odd that both items would have the same "defect." Hence I turned to UHH for advice.
Does it mean anything to you if the safety button on my 394 is aluminum (not chrome)?
You suggest that pressing on the locking lever tightens the mechanism. Is there a way to loosen it—to start all over so to speak? I have tried depressing the safety button and pulling the locking lever, but nothing seems to happen.
Update: I just completed disassembly of the original 394. I do not see any irregularities that might impede movement of the locking lever. :-D
A clear view of the base plate shows why pressing the safety button serves no purpose until the locking lever is half-way across. It's regrettable that the printed instructions do not include that information.
Examination of the under side of the locking lever reveals a chip in the black finish on the flat leading edge, and a sloped line is scribed across the bottom edge of the canted face.
That is my forensics report for now. Never before have I felt so incompetent. :(
Pete, Thanks for the exploded drawing. Sub-assembly R354.08 stymies me. I do not have a tool sufficiently small to engage the screw.