I did a search on this subject and most of the threads are 2017 or older. I have a stitched 20x40" landscape that I think will translate very well to high gloss metal. Aluminyze offers this size and finish as one of their standards (Costco does not). It's a bit pricey but given where I'm going to place it (over the fireplace in the living room) I'm okay with a $225+ tab. The reviews from 4 or 5 years ago were overall positive about the quality from Aluminyze, but things change. Does anyone have recent experience with them or is there another vendor I should check out before placing the order?

You can batch process right out of Photoshop. Go to the "File" pull down menu. Select "Scripts". Then select "Image Processor". That will give you a menu that allows you to process all open images (or you can select a folder and process those RAW files) into JPEGs - and will actually let you select a resizing option (for instance 800 x 1200 px for Facebook) or any other size and quality you want. At the same time, it will also give you the option to save all of your open images as PSD files. It creates folders in the original RAW folder - interestingly enough labeled JPEG and PSD. And if you open more RAW files from that same location and process them using the "Scripts" option it will save those in the same JPEG and PSD folders. I usually open maybe 10 images at a time and always run the "Scripts" option when I'm finished with my PS processing. Hope this helps.

I'm currently playing around with Impressions and Remask5. I'm on the road so I don't have any examples to post but if I were to use your picture I'd mask out the horse from the background - use Impressions on the background - then add the natural horse layer onto the "impressionistic" background. It's a pretty cool effect with the right subject and one that I've received pretty good feedback on.

I highly recommend checking out Topaz Remask 2. It does an amazing job. I shoot against a light gray wall. Tried green screen but it tended to add a green hue to hair wisps, especially blondes.

Another reason to read the manual. I upgraded from the Canon 5D MKII to the Canon 5D MKIII 18 months ago. Didn't feel the need to read the manual page by page since I knew the MKII inside and out and so I just scanned through it. Imagine my surprise when I saw another photographer display a two way (side to side and tilt) electronic level on the LCD monitor on his 5D MKIII. Went home and pulled out the manual and there on page 60 were the instructions for activating the level (push menu button once then info button twice). For 18 months I've been using a manual level that snaps into the hot shoe. Doh! I'm posting this not to demonstrate my ignorance but because I've since talked to two other friends of mine who have MKIII's and they didn't know about the level either. So just in case there's another Hogger out there with a Canon 5D MKIII who like me, doesn't read manuals, this post is for you.

Yes they are in both places. However you can pick and choose which Dropbox folders you want to sync with your computer. I archive shots on Dropbox but choose to not sync them. I can still see them using my browser at Dropbox.com. Using the app on my Mac, I only see those files I have synced.

The Scripts option is a wonderful tool for "save as". I shoot in RAW. Adjust in Lightroom, then open about 10 shots at a time to Photoshop CC for final touch up. When I'm done with all ten shots in PS
1. Go to File and select the "Scripts" option
2. Then select "Image Processor" option
3. Select "Use Open Images"
4. Select "Save in Same Location"
5. And under file type I select "Save As JPEG" and the quality I want
And I also Select "Save as PSD" At this point I don't save as TIFF but
that's a third option. ( You can choose to resize the pics for Facebook
or email where full resolution might be to large.)
6. Click "Run" and Photoshop will create a "JPEG" folder and a "PSD" folder
in the same folder as your RAW files and automatically save all pictures
you have open

Best part, is when I open the next 10 images to process and do the same routine, it places the JPEGs and the PSDs in the already created folders. It doesn't create new ones. When I'm done, each format (RAW, JPEG, PSD) is saved in its own folder. Hope this helps.

Went to BBF about 6 months ago. Took a week of shooting to get used to but I'm now kicking myself for not going to this mode years ago. With the Canon 5D MKIII you can also lock exposure with the button right next to it. It becomes second nature very quickly. Try it. Bet you'll like it.

Agree. 800 was tops except in extreme emergencies. I figured a noisy shot at 3200 was better than nothing. ISO limitation was the reason I upgraded to a MKII. Gave my 40D to my brother who loves it. He does mostly family gatherings and uses a strobe.

Thanks everyone. Based on the feedback going with my first instinct which was the SX60.

I thought this would be a no brainer decision - buy a great walk around camera for my wife so she would quit using my MKIII. SX60 is newer technology so might as well get the latest. Checked it out and was very disappointed in how slow the auto focus is at the longer telephoto settings. And it seemed really hard to hold it steady (guessing some of that is due to the light weight and smaller size than what I'm used to). We hike so the wider angle of the SX60 is a plus and she's also a birder so the longer zoom is also a plus. That being said, there's a good number of reviews/side-by-side comparisons and blog posts that seem to point to the SX50 being the better choice. Has anyone moved from the SX50 to the SX60 and would you do it again if you had it to do over? Also, does auto focus speed up in outdoor lighting? I was in a camera store and gave the camera sharp well lit edges and it seemed like an eternity compared to what I'm used to. Final thoughts, difference in cost is not an issue and I'm not interested in looking at other brands - been a Canon guy since 1973 and to old to change now. Thnx in advance.

No it shouldn't. I did this very quickly just because I was wondering what might be lurking in the shadows. To do it right would probably take 3 or 4 masks with much finer precision brushes than the broad brush I used. so that you don't have a brighter reflection than the sky.

Very nice shot - hope you don't mind but I played around a little bit with your shot to see if I could bring out a bit of detail in the lower right corner of the picture. This is very quick and dirty and obviously I'm doing this on a JPEG and not the RAW file but it always amazes me how much detail can be recovered.

Used exposure brush and increased saturation

i use the 16-35 f2.8 at least 90% of the time on my MKIII when shooting landscapes. I find it hard to believe that you're not seeing the significant difference between 16 and 24. My experience is that when I looked at lenses wider than 16mm, the fisheye effect/distortion became very distracting. It is a pricy lens but your hanging it on a pricey camera. And at f11 and up, the DOF and sharpness is incredible.