Beautiful. The place and the photos. Well done!
Good place for excellent photos. Nice set.
I take another that got too dark, but after doing some black magic with the "Levels" tools...
Well, probably today or tomorrow it will rain (polar cold front reaching Brazil in the next days), and that means red clouds/skies in the morning and afternoon.
I did some more fiddling... I should have asked for more photos...
This picture is from Out/2014, I did some fiddling with it in http://ipiccy.com/
I used a manual lens (Helios-44 58mm f/2) and... still need to do manual focus correctly (the ponytail is on focus, the eye, no).
Take a look at this "softfocus" tricks: http://blog.freepeople.com/2014/08/3-softfocus-lens-effects/
It appears to me that there's something between the flower and the camera, and the camera did the autofocus on the flower. Perhaps the foreground was too close to the lens to be focused, and the camera focused on the flower.
Every time you point a camera to something and acquires focus, there's only a part of the passage that will be on focus. We call this the in-focus region, and its length is the depth of focus and depth of field. The trick to get something blurred is making the focus such that the thing we get blurred is outside the in-focus region.
There are a lot to learn here, but the basic to get shallow depth of field is:
1. use long lenses. Short tele is enough (80mm or more). Long tele will force you to use a walkie-talkie to communicate with the subject (more than 400mm).
2. use wide aperture. A bigger aperture can compensate for a shorter lens - but within certain limits.
3. get the closest you can to the subject, maintaining the background the farter possible.
You can use a shorter lens, like a 50mm, if you use a wide aperture (f/1.8) and keep the distances correct.
With autofocus there's a trick, you can choose the autofocus point the camera will use, in most models. But in certain modes, you can't do this. Refer to the camera's manual.
More experienced photographers can give you better advice, I only know this little.
After looking closely, I discovered that the photo is blurred - there was wind, and using the aperture f/11 resulted in low shutter speed...
I think I will up the ISO and do the pictures again, if this guy is still there (a lot of birds around - Sabia Laranjeira).
Someone filmed the flower opening. It closes every night.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHidtyJss0
Found this guy today, during my lunch time.
I think most people buy this kind of lens because of:
1. great bokeh/background blur. It has a big aperture, and that allows for some creamy background blur.
2. excellent performance in low light situations.
I'm not exactly an expert, but I think you should take advantage of it and do portrait in existing light.
As for the landscape and scenery, you have a cropped sensor camera, and that means that you will get the equivalent angle of view of a 80mm lens in a full-frame. In other words, a 50mm in a cropped sensor camera will funcion as a short tele. Not very good for landscape and scenery, but as always, you can get over limitations with creativity.
Here you get some samples: http://pixelpeeper.com/lenses/?lens=16&perpage=12&is_fullframe=2&focal_min=none&focal_max=none&aperture_min=none&aperture_max=none&res=3