I had problems with IR shots appearing different between RAW and JPG. The RAW IR files appeared pink like the one you showed, while the JPG IR files showed the correct IR color and white balance settings.
What kind of camera are you using? If you're using a Canon DSLR, check your color shift settings in the Menu.
Rent one and test it out under all conditions you normally would to see if it makes that much of a difference.
There's lightning storms almost every day here... rain storms at 4pm daily during summer and then lightning storms without rain (heat lightning) almost nightly.
If you have a Canon dslr, you might want to check out the Magic Lantern firmware and see if it's available for the model you have. I've gotten great shots with their motion detect function (for lightning).
It's free. http://www.magiclantern.fm/
If you can't get a lightning trigger or the firmware, you could always set up an intervalometer. It might sound wasteful on the camera's shutter to take a bunch of photos that might not have anything worth keeping, but if it's a good storm, you'll get what you need.
Glad you got the answer you needed. :thumbup:
If it's not the white balance, as said above, check to see if your camera has a color shift option (like the Canon 600D/ T3i) and adjust it so it's back in the middle of the grid instead off to one side.
Why would someone have to learn the craft of photography when the technology has evolved to the point where it doesn't matter? The little screen on the back of the point and shoot beeped, focused, and then took the picture. I just had to point it in the right direction. Exposure, aperture, rule of thirds, blah.
Oh, I'm being sarcastic (above) by the way; but the Internet and technology in general is totally dumbing down my students when it comes to having them learn actually real world skills and thinking abilities. They can totally make stop-motion videos, but can't go outside and tell me which plants are edible or poisonous, or how to change a tire, or even how to tell which way is north, etc...
From NY, on July 4, you will be able to see it in a N to S arc, with the dark rift being at the southern end of it. Check out the dark sky researchers website. It estimates where the most to least light pollution per capita is. Go to the dark places for best results. Best results = at least 50 miles from metro and suburban areas. Start looking around 9:30 or so... Usually an hour past sundown is when the stars start showing up. You will get better results the later at night it is though.
As already mentioned, the Milky Way is viewable every night in the right areas, however the best part of it is only viewable in the northern hemisphere from late spring to early autumn.
There are a lot of useful apps out there for mobile devices that are interactive and show you where stars and planets are located on any given day. I use GoSkyWatch on my iPad. It's saved me several times with my astrophotography.
For the t31, it says I need 1.0.1 firmware, but my camera was preloaded with 1.0.2. Do I need to roll back the firmware to load the magic lantern program, or will it still work with the newer firmware version?
Okay, I thought of another dumb question. If I swap memory cards, will I have to have magic lantern on the other cards as well? If not, do I leave the camera on while I swap cards out?
Thanks for the info! HDR and IR is what I mainly use the camera for, so those settings changes will help a lot. The 30"- Bulb with no in-between is really killing my shots.
I just switched from Olympus E series to the T3i. I downloaded the ML program but haven't installed it for the same warnings listed above. I've also checked out the videos online about it, but since I'm new to Canon, I still don't really understand how much better this makes the camera.
Also, since the SD card needs to be made bootable, do the images go on this same card as well, or do I swap out cards for the images once the camera is on?