That should have been "JPEG images", not "JPEG ages."

I hardly notice any substantial difference in the results that I get from the Nikon B700 vis-à-vis the Fuji S-1. The B700 has 4K video capability but I have not utilized it yet. I do like the ability to capture 8mp stills snipped from the 4k video. I liked the S-1 menu better, and though it is a very subjective thing, I think I liked the straight-out-of-the-camera color rendition of JPEG ages better in the S-1.

Best regards,

Hi, Tony

I owned a Fuji S-1 bridge camera for about a year until it was stolen out of my vehicle. I liked it, but replaced it with a Nikon B700 simply because I could not find another Fuji S-1. As far as tips for use, I would say: (1.) In general, be aware of the limitations of bridge cameras and be prepared to work around them; (2.) for best performance at the longer focal lengths and distances, you will need good light--bright sunshine is best; (3.) the Fuji RAW format may not be compatible with all editing programs; Lightroom can now handle it, I think, which is a great advantage; (4.) hand-holding such cameras for shooting at the long focal lengths is difficult and requires practice for most people; when outdoors, I found it helpful to stick mine on a monopod and carry the combination around in my hand; (5.) in general I am disdainful of the "scene selection" shooting modes on many cameras, but as I recall, some of them on the Fuji were pretty good, especially the one for close-up shots of flowers, etc.; (6.) battery life is not so great--a couple of spare batteries would be helpful.

I feel sure you will enjoy your camera. Good shooting.

Great photos! I really love the "diamond ring" & "string of pearls" shots. Great touch and timing. Thanks so much for sharing them with us.

IMHO, there is no such thing as just one all purpose lens for a Canon dslr such as the T6. If I were forced to choose just one lens for such cameras for most common day-to-day uses, it would be the Canon 24-105 f/4L. If you could pair it with a Canon 100-400L, either the older and cheaper Mark I or the newer Mark II version, you would be getting close to having coverage for all but the more extreme and/or specialized situations--certainly enough, as a practical matter, for your trip. If I could not spring for one of the Canon 100-400's, I would try to obtain and pack along with the dslr a small bridge camera such as the Canon SX60 or the Nikon B700 to guarantee coverage at the longer focal lengths for wildlife, birds, etc. Indeed, a bridge camera could become your sole camera (with permanently attached lens) for your trip, but then that's a whole 'nother discussion!

Get in as much practice as possible, have fun, and have a great trip.

Okay, I see. Thank you for your patience as well as the information. Perhaps the time will come when I progress beyond the ranks of the severely digitally challenged.

With regard to the "My Pictures" folder (which I assume was already on your internal hard drive and available in LR), did you copy it to the external drive and then import it into LR from the external drive? That would seem to set one up with the option to remove the images on the internal drive from Lightroom, and if desired, to also remove them from the internal drive, right?

I have the 6000 and my first thought upon reading the OP's topic was the matter of shutter lag. While I would not use the word "horrendous", I would say that it is very noticeable. Looking beyond the kit lenses for "native" Sony lenses proves daunting both with respect to price and selection. I have found it to be an interesting, often enjoyable, learning experience to search out old, relatively cheap, manual focus prime lenses, especially Canon FD's and Minolta MC/MD's, for attachment via an adapter to the a6000. With the focus peaking feature of the 6000, manual focus is not a problem with stationary subjects.

Hi, bdouglas,

I have the Nikon B700 and find it to be a very decent instrument--for a bridge camera. My opinion is that there is very little real difference between it and the Canon SX60. Of course the Nikon P900 has significantly greater magnification than either of them, but otherwise probably suffers from much the same limitations as the other two. My greatest objection to my bridge camera, though not the only one, is the difficulty that it has in acquiring focus in low-light or low-contrast situations. For example, it has real difficulty in acquiring focus on a red-winged blackbird perched among a background of dark green cat-tail plants, and I understand that this is not unique to my particular bridge camera. I have no idea of the additional expense required to pack a full size dslr with something like a Tamron or Sigma 150-600mm lens, but for an African safari opportunity, I would strongly advise against scrimping on your photography equipment. I would see the bridge camera as something to be packed along with a good dslr and to be used when there is not time, space, opportunity, or inclination (for whatever reason) to deploy the dslr. Since you have plenty of time before the trip begins next March, try to beg, borrow, or rent a bridge camera and put it through its paces. Shoot birds and wildlife at longer distances, not just pets and kids on the other side of a room. If you are not familiar with dslr's, do the same with a dslr with a decent telephoto lens of at least 300mm or longer, then make your decision. Just my humble opinion.

Best regards,

I have been shopping ebay and other sites for a used Canon 5D iii. Occasionally I find offers for cameras that have almost ridiculously low shutter counts. I often suspect that they have been used primarily for video, perhaps extensively. Sometimes the video use is acknowledged by the seller. My interest is in still photos, almost exclusively. To what extent should one expect high video use to affect the remaining usable life of such a camera?

Across the entire spectrum of my shooting with the a6000, I find that, based upon repeated use and effectiveness, the "chimp" feature is my favorite. The actuation process is initiated by depressing the shutter release button with the right index finger . . . .

I am also considering an upgrade to a larger monitor--a 27" 4K monitor-- from an older Viewsonic 21". My computer is a Hewlett Packard hp-1380t with an i7 processor and AMD Radeon 7550 video card. I use Photoshop CC but do not do gaming. How does one determine what type (i.e. brand, size, capacity,etc.) would be appropriate prior to purchase and installment of a replacement monitor? My question was about what type video card, not what type monitor. I apologize for any confusion.

Hi, Carolyn,

I too have a B700 and I feel that it compares quite well to other cameras of this type. With your statement that "The camera is hard to keep the picture steady on zoom", I think you have essentially identified the major aspect of your problem, that is, camera shake. As others have suggested, it would be helpful if you would post some pictures for them to analyze, but in the meantime I suggest working on the matter of camera shake. (1.) Try using a tripod. Make test shots at long, medium, and short focal lengths. Camera shake becomes much more noticeable at the longer focal lengths. Try releasing the shutter with the 2-sec or 10-sec timer on the camera and your hand removed from the camera--or use a cable/remote shutter release. Try setting the camera in the "S" mode (shutter priority) at 1/1000 sec or higher--the faster shutter speed will help to "freeze" the motion of camera shake. The classic advice seems to be to turn VR (vibration reduction, same as image stabilization on your Canon) off while using a tripod, but some say that it does not matter; perhaps you should try it both ways and see for yourself what difference it makes. (2.) When not shooting from a tripod, use some sort of rest, like a monopod, a post, a wall, a tree, a monopod, the window of your car with a beanbag or piece of foam over the top edge--anything to help steady the camera. Use VR and when you press the shutter to autofocus, wait to see the VR steady the image before releasing the shutter. (3.) Research and read articles on good shooting technique--you could start with the search feature on UHH.

In addition, you might want to check the "AF area mode" setting that you are using to be sure that it is appropriate for the type of picture you happen to be taking at a particular time. If shooting birds at longer focal lengths, you probably want to use the "manual spot" setting to focus as much as possible on the bird and not its surroundings. If shooting broad landscapes, you would probably want "manual wide" to try to get as much of the scene as possible into focus. In order to use these options, you will have to shift out of the auto shooting modes, (i.e. the "green camera icon" and "Scene" modes), and go to the P, S, A or M modes on the shooting mode dial. To be consistent, of the P,S, A, M modes, I suggest concentrating on the "S" mode until you become comfortable with trying the other modes.

Shooting these cameras, especially at longer focal lengths, is sort of like shooting a fine rifle at long ranges. Regardless of its capabilities, one cannot reasonably expect to do well without practice.

Best regards,

I have not been there but I understand that there are limitations on the size of backpacks (which would include camera bags, etc.) allowed within the site itself. Twenty liters seems to be the limit that I find, and frankly, that seems to me to be large enough for all practical purposes. I also understand that a special permit, which of course involves a fee, is needed for "professional" camera equipment. From what I read on TripAdvisor, the interpretation, and therefore enforcement, of what constitutes "professional" equipment may vary somewhat with the personnel in charge at any particular time. I have read in the past that lenses over 200mm in focal length would be considered "professional. Recent travelers on TripAdvisor indicate that they used zoom lenses up to 300mm without a problem. I would expect that tripods would be frowned upon.These size limitations may be something to check out more closely.

You asked specifically about a telephoto lens for your Canon t5 and have received much good advice regarding such lenses. However, given that you describe yourself as "only a beginner and casual user so don't want to break the bank...", you might want to consider (if you have not already done so) a "bridge" camera, such as the Canon SX60, in lieu of an expensive telephoto lens of 400mm or more. I think you can pick up a used Canon SX60 on eBay for $300, very possibly less. It would give you 65x magnification, a so-called "equivalent" of approximately 1560mm max focal range. It would be relatively compact and fully usable for "normal" shooting as well as longer shots.

The Canon SX60 certainly isn't the only such camera around. It is just one of a number of sophisticated and reliable bridge cameras that happens to come to mind.

Best regards,