Yes, there is some beautiful wildlife in Iceland, especially the horses. I had a 1.7X tele for my 70-200mm with me as well as an 80-400mm, but I rarely used the 80-400mm and was sorry I brought it. Also, to be clear I was shooting with a crop sensor Nikon at the time so my reach was longer. My only point is that sometimes carrying around a much longer, heavier lens can have a negative effect on your overall experience.

I've made that trip for a magazine assignment and rarely needed anything longer than my 70-200mm f/2.8. Most of my shots were with a 24-70 and 18-35mm. A good tripod is a must for capturing the beautiful waterfalls and ocean beaches.

You may want to consider the Godox brand, also sold at B&H. I have three units which have replaced my much more expensive and harder to use Nikon Speedlights. Godox seems to have a larger selection of products for both pros and amateurs as well as a number of handy accessories. I don't think you can beat their quality, especially considering their reasonable prices. Google Godox, and you'll find a number of very helpful YouTube videos on their product line.

I didn't realize how much detail was lost or even distorted (the notorious "worm" effect") on certain images in LR until I tried Iridient and then compared both images at 100%. So while your image looks very good, it's hard to judge it unless compared to one converted in Iridient. But again, it's only on certain images with very fine details of grass and leaves and then only if I plan to make large prints. LR is fine for converting the majority of Fuji's RAW files.

The latest version of LR works well with the majority of Fuji RAW images, but for those with fine details of grass, leaves, etc., I'd recommend first using Iridient X-Transformer to convert to dng and then finish with LR or PS. It's an easy workflow. Check out Thomas Fitzgerald's e-books. http://thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com

Good question. After retiring from my photojournalism career, I have found that producing books on my more exciting trips (via Apple or Blurb) that include text and maps are a great way to share my travel adventures with others. Friends that see these books sitting on a table at home often ask to borrow them so that they can learn more about where I've been and to enjoy my photos. Friends and relatives seem to be more comfortable viewing these books on their own rather than sitting and watching me show images on my computer. I've also entered my best shots in various art shows and exhibits and have had some success in selling the framed and matted prints. And lately I've found that various clubs and organizations, especially senior centers, are interested in having me make Power Point presentations of my trips. They stimulate lots of questions, and many folks become engaged and start talking about all the places they've been to. Of course, social media is another venue I use, but frankly nothing beats books, prints and live presentations.

While it would seem that using another program to cull images before importing into LR is a slower process, using Photo Mechanic actually speeds up the process. That's why the majority of AP photographers use Photo Mechanic to preview and select thousands of images they might shoot in one session. There are preferences that can be set that make selecting "keepers" incredibly fast. As a photojournalist, I also like using it because my LR catalog is not clogged with thousands of images that I will never use. I'm not advocating Photo Mechanic for everyone, just mentioning that it is actually a fast and easy way to cull before importing hundreds and thousands of images and that pre-selecting before importing reduces the clutter of rejected images. It works very well for me who sometimes shoots 1000 or more images for a magazine assignment with a deadly deadline. But I appreciate that most photographers don't need to use this workflow and wouldn't want the added expense of buying the program.

Consider a trial of Photo Mechanic by Camera Bits. It's a super fast browser used by many pros to rate and select what they import to LR. It's star and color ratings can be read by LR. There's an initial cost, but many photographers like myself find it is worth the money.

I wondered about the same thing before taking a trip to Europe. In the end I simply bought an extra dozen 32 GB SD cards and two 256 GB cards. Since my camera (Fuji XT-2) takes two cards, one of which can be configured to be a backup, I shot each of the 32 GB cards until full, leaving the 256 GB as a back up. I kept the 32s and the 256s in separate carry on bags until returning home, so I essentially had the original card and a backup without worrying about charging or HD malfunctions. Cards are relatively inexpensive and quite indestructible. I think this was the most simple solution for me.

I also loved my D750 with a collection of pro glass, but eventually I found I was leaving it home because of its size and weight. I began taking the wonderful little Nikon P7800 with me everywhere and got some terrific results, especially considering its small sensor. And then I bought the compact, mirrorless Fuji XE-1 with the 18-55mm "kit" lens, and it changed everything. After moving up to the Fuji XT-1 with some extra lenses, I found that I was taking my Fuji everywhere and leaving my Nikon gear home. Finally, I sold all my Nikon gear and moved up to the Fuji XT-2 with all pro glass, including several fast primes. I couldn't be happier. While I really did love my Nikon gear, I am taking many more and much better shots with my Fuji because I keep it with me and I've focused on learning how to maximize its performance. Selling my Nikon kit was a tough decision but I'm not sorry I made the switch. Perhaps you'll eventually come to a similar conclusion. For me it was just a matter of time and a realization that i was using my Fuji much more than my Nikon gear. If I were in your shoes I'd also take a look at the Olympus system as well as Fuji. Many are switching to FF Sony, but while the Sony body is small, the lenses are still quite big and heavy. Lots to think about, eh?

I have the same Lowepro 150 AW bag that I carry my Fuji XT-2 kit (body, 3 lenses, filters, charger, batteries, flash, memory cards, cleaning cloths, etc,) and love it. I can also attach my Gitzo traveler tripod or Joby mini tripod. It has traveled cross country as well as throughout Europe. I think the Fuji or Olympus systems are the best for traveling light and still getting incredible images.

I have TrueDoF-Pro which works very well, and is worth the $10. But after I switched to Fuji, I use its built-in DOF indicator which can be displayed in the EVF or on the LCD. And because the mirrorless system is "What You See Is What You Get" I can actually see the effects of changing my aperture before I shoot. So now, I rarely use the i-Phone APP.

I recently shot a special Mass where the Archbishop of Baltimore presided, and flash was discouraged. My Fuji XT-2 did OK at ISO 2000. Wide shot was with 16-55mm at f/3.6 and 1/450th. Close up was with 50-140mm (at 140mm) at 1/500th. If you can use flash be sure you have a powerful unit, as bouncing it may not work because of height of ceiling. I believe your Canon will do fine at high ISO.

If these don't work the way you want, consider getting a Godox flash and trigger for your Fuji. They're inexpensive and work in TTL and HSS with Fuji.

While I now shoot with my XT-2, I started with an XE-1 and then XT-1 both with the excellent 18-55mm Fuji lens. But I also adapted my older Pentax SMC Takumar lenses with very good results. Focus peaking really helps and as others have said, Fuji's manual controls make adjustments quick and easy.