I've used the Canon Remote Switch RS-80N3 on both the Canon 5D and 5D MKii. The switch has a locking position which may be the problem. If the switch is locked it causes the shutter to remain open, good for very long exposures.

The connector is a 3 pin and one of the pins could be bent. Is this an after market switch?

Could be a slow writing CF card?

I have used the Canon MP-E 1:5 macro lens for several years and have found it to be acceptably sharp, But, as you say, it dosen't go far enough. The best solution I have found is to use a microscope objective lens on a bellows.

I'm now using a Nikon CF E Plan Achromat 10X. It works quite well and the only problem is the very very small DoF. These lenses are available for around $100 on eBay.

One of the many reasons a professional wedding photographer is concerned about other photographers shooting at a wedding could be that the lighting balance will be changed by the light from other flash units. This is especially true with group shots and photos of the bride and groom.

Another reason is the professional is being paid to produce a wedding album without the interference of untrained photographers.

I feel that is is rude not to ask permission from the bride. If there is wedding planner involved you might want to ask that person too.

Good point, putting it in visual terms.

Nice long trail. Good job!

AutoFocus: OFF
AutoEposure: OFF
Vibration Reduction: OFF
Focus: Infinity ∞
Camera: Manual
Shutter: B
Focal length: 50mm or shorter.
ISO: 400+ until noise becomes a problem
F/Stop: wide open or 1 stop smaller.
Use a tripod, cable release and sunshade (if you are in an urban area).
Exposure varies depending upon too many things. Try starting at 10 seconds.
Examine the exposure and increase or decrease it by 5 second steps until you can see some values in the sky.

Or, you could point the camera at the North star and get some star trails and a meteor or two. Star trails require much longer exposures.

It is tricky, Hope this helps.

I am interested in your technique of removing DoF. It seems to me that you have taken advantage of the aperture and increased the depth of field in your panorama images, providing overall sharpness. Setting the ∞ mark opposite the aperture, F/8 in your case, would increase the DoF in your image, especially in the foreground. Unfortunately, this requires a depth of field scale on the lens and some newer lenses lack the scale.

This method is based upon the hyperfocal distance for each aperture on your lens. These numbers are often published for prime lenses and some zoom lenses. The hyperfocal distance is derived from the F/stop, the focal length of the lens and the dreaded Circle of Confusion (CoC). This number is easily calculated for each of your prime lenses, zoom lenses too if you have the time.

If anyone is seriously interested in learning to use DoF effectively, I suggest finding a copy of: Applied Depth Of Field, by Alfred A. Blaker. Focal Press, Butterworth Publishers, 1985. ISBN 0-240-51730-X

An instructor once told me about an interesting photographic experiment regarding DoF. Simply put his hypothesis was: Lenses of unequal focal length, set at the same aperture will have the same DoF provided that the image is that same size on the film/sensor.

Skeptical student that I was, I created an overly elaborate set of two images. I used a cantaloupe and a yard stick, a Pentax body and 50mm and 100mm lenses. The prints proved my instructor to be correct. However, seeking an opportunity to raise my grade, I used the classical DoF calculations to verify the prints.

From the little that I can remember ( it was 50+ years ago) DoF is a function of the size of the aperture, the limits of the Circle of Confusion (sometimes called a blur circle), the subject distance and the lens focal length.

The image of the leaves is very nicely done. The shapes and tonalities work together to give the image a sense of depth.

The creek shot has the same print quality, unfortunately there is no clearly defined subject. The hanging vines, moss and branches block any visual entrance into the image.

Oops, I didn"t include the url: http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/adapter-rings.htm

Here is a site that may have the adapter you are trying to find. Email them with a description of your lens and camera.
Hope you find the correct part.

Walking around with a tripod can be awkward, especially when setting up for a quick shot. My solution is to leave the camera attached to the tripod and to have the tripod set at a comfortable working height. A small foam pad on my shoulder and I am able to carry tripod and camera in one hand or on my shoulder.