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Feb 3, 2017 00:47:39   #
crafterwantabe wrote:
Great picture.... we have those destroying our garage at the cabin.


What are they hammering on , making holes in wood , or ? I know how to fix some stuff they do , no violence, good information
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Feb 2, 2017 22:27:59   #
HelleGuy wrote:
Wow your very helpful. Ill give that a try too and get back to you.


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Feb 2, 2017 16:01:27   #
Shakes69 wrote:
Longshadow said: "I would be very tempted to keep at least one and use a digital camera for guide shots and set the RB or 645 accordingly and shoot. (Then you can coordinate the two using the digital as a control.)"

I would like to know if the film in the camera say on 100 ISO is an exact match to the DSLR sensor at 100 ISO and how does this affect APS-C sensors and also entry level (D3300 Nikon) vs. say D7200 Vs. D810?

If it is NOT the same and the settings are duplicated to the film camera, the images might differ substantially when the photos are developed?
Longshadow said: "I would be very tempted to ... (show quote)


What " it sounds as if your going to try and shoot film in your digital camera , I know your not , but that's what my brain is reading , if you could it wouldn't have the latitude that digital has you can push a black and white tri x 800 film to a 1600, asa but with digital you can go 200 to way up into the thousands iso, asa . I remember it was a few years back that digital caught up with film , but the sensors they have
Now has surpassed that mild stone .
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Feb 2, 2017 15:36:28   #
via the lens wrote:
So you are advocating that a photographer not use the focus points? Seems a waste of a good tool to me. The focus points allow you to choose where the focus originates from as well as what tone you want to set the metering on. It's not complicated at all, just good use of all of the tools given to us in the camera. In digital photography when shooting RAW it's especially important to expose for the highlights. When shooting in JPEG one would need to expose on the brights, but keeping the exposure point more at the end of the midtone levels as there is not as much leeway in JPG. Why not use all the tools we have to get the photo we want without having to rely strongly on post processing: makes sense to me.
So you are advocating that a photographer not use ... (show quote)



,,, oh and that's another thing I use nothing but raw nef , if there are things I may want to keep , if I want to send family, I send large
Fine
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Feb 2, 2017 15:28:03   #
via the lens wrote:
So you are advocating that a photographer not use the focus points? Seems a waste of a good tool to me. The focus points allow you to choose where the focus originates from as well as what tone you want to set the metering on. It's not complicated at all, just good use of all of the tools given to us in the camera. In digital photography when shooting RAW it's especially important to expose for the highlights. When shooting in JPEG one would need to expose on the brights, but keeping the exposure point more at the end of the midtone levels as there is not as much leeway in JPG. Why not use all the tools we have to get the photo we want without having to rely strongly on post processing: makes sense to me.
So you are advocating that a photographer not use ... (show quote)


I thought the poster was asking about BBF , and that's all I ever use , most use it just for action shots , but I have no trouble using it for every shot , and all my sitting birds are sharp as a tac , and my flying shots are 80% better than tickling the the shutter button maybe even
95% better and I just use spot metering , mind you a flying bird is the only thing in screen except for sky, or clouds so what ever else is there besides the bird is moot point, does not matter , and my shots of mountains , Ocean etc are with ar with a f stop of f11 or smaller so they are in a range where every thing is going to turn out most of the time any way , I get my share of blurred ones but that's is just to slow of shutter for most BIF I'm at 1600 to 2100 depend how the light is .
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Feb 1, 2017 23:38:06   #
Some people are setting up a small dark room and are using those to develop black and white , and that format is good for that sort
Of shooting , I may even do that myself , I took a course in that years ,there is not much to it ,it's all in measuring amount of developer
Fixer , temperature, timing of solutions, exposer under light , if you get good at it, I'm sure you could make enough to pay for your ongoing
Cost , blowing up black and white of old schools ,church , beach , mountains , land marks in your area ,schools old and new ,
Ocean going love boats, you can sell them to tourist as they get off the love boat have them all made and framed before hand .
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Feb 1, 2017 22:53:21   #
via the lens wrote:
One of the main reasons to use BBF is to be able to set the autofocus and the exposure separately. So, lets say I am shooting a waterfall with dark mountains. I cannot focus accurately on moving water so I move my focus indicator just to the side of the running water, which will then be on the dark mountain, and I press my BBF to set focus. What I need to do now, however, is to set my exposure on the brightest part of the moving water in order to get a correct exposure for this shot. BBF sets and leaves the focus set unless I hit it again, which I do not do in this case. What I do is move my autofocus indicator button (in shutter mode this button connects auto focus and exposure), which is set separately from auto focus in BBF, to the brightest part of the moving water and the exposure will be automatically corrected. At this point I might take a test shot to see if the exposure works and perhaps take the exposure down a stop or two if it is too bright. So, you don't really need to have a separate exposure button with BBF, at least not in this type of situation.
One of the main reasons to use BBF is to be able t... (show quote)


You are making it more complicated than it needs to be just set BBF with spot metering , take shot , if not right , take another shot put
Spot on a lighter patch or a darker patch , your not going to get a perfect whit spot and a perfect dark spot and a perfect middle tone
Unless you burn and Dodge, you can just make a few adjustments and pic the one you feel is the best , you can play around in photo shop if your good at that sort of thing .
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Feb 1, 2017 13:13:28   #
HelleGuy wrote:
I set my exposure lock to hold when I half press shutter. Works well for me. Hope this helps.


How is that working for you , on BIF as there changing position ever wing flap , I use cf on every thing , but I also use BBF, on everything
It's the best for both worlds .if it's sitting on a stump not flying I just lift my thumb and take as many in focus snaps as I want, if it's flying I
Just hold my thumb down and take as many snaps or spray and pray as I want . Try that by locking your exposer every shot , it never worked for me , ??
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Jan 31, 2017 23:28:14   #
[qote=Uturn]I know that there has been some discussion on this topic before but here goes:

I have an RB 67 ProS system and a Mamiya 645 and I have just about decided to take them to KEH and take what I can get but with the current chatter about Ektachrome coming back I am now more confused than ever.

My intent would be to shot film and scan the transparencies.
I have had some good results scanning my older images -both transparencies and negatives.

I would appreciate any input to help me decide.

Thanks
Bill[/quote] I would keep them , your not going it get much for them now , you should have solid years ago ,when they were worth something you missed by at least 35 years . But if it ever catches on big time or even small time ,any time in the future would better than now , I have a 645 pentax mint shape and 3 lenses flash etc about $5000 with the goodies
Filters and such , I would be lucky to get $2 or $300 : that's what a body sells for now , keep it
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Jan 31, 2017 23:06:19   #
Fantastic, you will win , I feel it i told every one Trump will win months , before he did
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Jan 31, 2017 22:41:21   #
photoflorida wrote:
This was shot at the Circle B Bar Reserve, Florida Feeding the family...


Tell me what you know about the young ones , when do they go out on there own , what do they do to kill time etc😆
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Jan 31, 2017 22:07:44   #
mwsilvers wrote:
Maybe English is a second language for him? Based on his post I certainly hope so.


ALL he's saying is if your shooting raw it doesn't mater what setting your using in camera , as it will be captured any way , ln light room or what ever other program your using you can bring it out , that's all , no problemo
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Jan 31, 2017 21:29:40   #
martinfisherphoto wrote:
I set my D7200 to, In Camera Sharpening of 6, for all my JPEG shooting. Do these look like cartoons to you?? http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-432045-1.html Taken with my D7200 and zoom lens..


If your trying to copy Rockwell, you have to get the blue "blue" that blue
looks white compared to his ,and the yellow has a to get a lot more vivid than that , and that eagle could be brought out more in the chest area, h
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Jan 31, 2017 20:54:22   #
bigwolf40 wrote:
I agree with you 100% and that is the way I buy all my Canon cameras. Bought a 7D and the new 80D model refurbished. I have had the 7D over 4 years and it is still working like new....Rich


Keep that bb loose wolf pp
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Jan 31, 2017 17:01:47   #
Buying refurbished by the maker is all most the same as buying a new camera , only it's better than new , the biggest percent of them are
Store bought returned cameras, by people who don't have a clue , have no desire to spend time learning, and snapped a few photos, then
Said I can do this with my point and shoot for one tenth of what this coast, so they take it back , and get the $40 --- $100 point and shoot
Then that camera is returned to a nikon or canon , pentax shop to a licensed place who has the required skills to check out , fix , etc .
In some ways it's better than new , as it's all checked out ,and any thing broken is replaced , and the shutter is replaced regardless as that's
About the only moving part in the camera , and all the screws nuts and bolts that matter checked , tightened, etc , a new camera coming off
The assembly is only checked maybe one in every thousand that gets a going over like these refurbished ones do , they have to sell them at a much lower cost other wise no one would buy them , the only people who buy them are people in the know , like people that belong to a camera club , or know a shooter in the business of camereas one way or the other , the only way I would buy new is if you payed thedifference it would cost me to do so , and every time you buy new this is what your doing any way , a refurbished say a nikon D7200 what is that around $600 , and brand new around $1300 or $1500 , I if you find one and buy it , it will probably last you five or six ,ten years
By then you may ready for another refurbished, I was a naysayer just like a lot of others but I smarten ed up ten years ago. It's just about my turn to get that refurbished D500 no ill Wait tell it's cost is $700 or $800 or less, I'm buying Thoms book on it now though , something to read as the price drops
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