Outstanding. Love the contrast.

For those who do make it to the top, here are the views that make it worth the climb or drive.
1st - Tuckerman's Ravine
2nd - Crawford Notch
3rd - View to the North (a scenic stop on the way back down)

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You are most welcome.

Sorry about that. My bad.

If you were considering an older AF-D lens, I would have no qualms about taking a chance on a grey market lens as there are minimal delicate components that can go wonky and any repairs could be made by someone who is handy. The newer stuff with AF-S motors and VR; not so much. A lot to go wrong and Nikon does control parts and service for those lens. It may hit the pocketbook a little more but I think the 5 years you get with a USA warranty is worth the extra 10 to 15 percent you might pay over a lens you acquired overseas.

B&H has the VR II version on their site right now for just about $2100 new and it is a USA model.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=644741&gclid=CjwKEAjw8OLGBRCklJalqKHzjQ0SJACP4BHrJxxd4IDWWEN7rW88tTv_8i-x6_BpbQBGS6trsP74ahoCYubw_wcB&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&is=USA&A=details

Oh, don't be. As long as you recognize the danger and stay true to the craft. Don't be seduced by the tech. Use it to your advantage, yes but don't let it take over.

This ongoing fascination with frame rates undercuts the whole reason for practicing photography in the first place. Between the time when you look through the viewfinder and press the shutter, you are multi-tasking in milliseconds composing, zooming, focusing (pre-AF days), estimating exposure and picking the right moment to pull the trigger. At some point all this technical prowess is going to remove us from the world of the artist and plop us back down as an equipment operator and prevent you from becoming better visionaries.

AC Moore as well.

As consumers I think we have been over-sold on this notion of not missing that magic shot at a sporting event. Which maybe a valid concern if we all were professional sports or celebrity photographers whose livelihoods depend on every shot; be that a one-handed Hail Mary pass reception in the end zone or a wardrobe malfunction on the red carpet. But for the most part we are not part of that world. We do not have the resources to spend 5 to 6 large for an insanely high frame-rate camera and another 8 to 10 thousand for a piece of back-breaking glass to catch that type of action. We also are not credentialed and do not have a spot staked out on the side line. We are in the stands and hoping for a shot that looks good so we can post it to Facebook.
Every camera is a compromise. Figure out what you want to do and work toward that goal. Forget the hype. Where is your happy place?

To illustrate your point I recently shot a snowmobile race with the D800 and a 70-300 VR AF-S 3.5-5.6. The first image is out of the camera and the second is the image cropped in post. The third is a tighter crop on the driver's themselves. Note: No sharpening was applied.

What the D800 lacks in high frame rates and buffering it more than makes up in resolution. It is my all around workhorse. It just depends on whether you need an AR-15 or a select fire M-16 to do the job. The D500 is phenomenal from all accounts though.

The other thing is that modern still cameras are approaching the frame rate of video. So you might as well shoot in video and then grab a frame that works. Slower frame rates force you to be a little more judicious in your shooting discipline. I shoot primarily in Single mode and I decide when to hit the shutter release.

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I fabricate my own square-edged basic frames from pine and here is a list of equipment and materials I use and sources;
10" Delta Table saw on rolling base frame- motor setup for 220 volts (you need the extra power when ripping hardwood and dado'ing) - probably a higher-end contractor supply house and the safety push sticks and handles. Plus a stock roller stand to support the materials as it leaves the table saw.
Irwin Marples 10" 80 tooth saw blade - for real smooth edges when ripping stock - minimal sanding -Lowes (One of your crown jewels and not to be used for regular work; instead use a good Diablo blade from Home Depot)
Hitachi 8 1/4" compound sliding miter saw - shop around
Diablo blades - Home Depot (highest tooth count possible)
Freud Stacked Dado set - will cut a dado up to 3/4" - Home Depot (and the required red steel bezel plate that fits around the dado set while in the saw - Also Delta)
Quick Release Frame Clamp set - Rockler
3/8" and 3/4" Hardwood and softwood V-Nails and hand tool for the miter joints - Rockler and Hobby Lobby
Corner joinery V-Nail clamp and driver (option over doing it yourself with a hammer) - Hobby Lobby (kind of expensive but check their website for weekly 40% off coupons on your phone)
Porter Cable brad nailer and compressor - Home Depot (don't have to use as much since I started using V-Nails)
Rigid 5" random orbital VS sander - hook and loop pad - 80, 120, 220 and 320 grit disks - Home Depot
Gorilla White wood glue - any hardware store
Rust-OLeum Laquer Spray Paint - Home Depot
Pine - absolutely pristine knot-free 1x6 stock (I get three, inch and a half strips from a 1x6x8') - my local (non-big box) lumber yard. Home Depot and Lowes never saw a knotty board they did not like.
Locate a hardware store that has a relationship with a saw sharpener to keep the blades and dado set in top shape. You will need that even more so if you are working with reclaimed materials.
A lot I know, but I have very specific requirements and I have built this up over many years including my time in the construction trades.

Was my pup. Lost her about 5 years ago to a hemmorage from a tumor. She had just come in from the snow.
My wife would take her out in the Loon kayak on the lake. She said everyone on the shore knew her name as my wife would have to say "Sit Ripley, Sit!" frequently.

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Oh, you were talking about my wall. LOL.

You know what they say? It ain't art if the frame costs more.