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The pain doesn't last long, especially when you see and feel the quality and fit...

Have you ever even thought of trying to shave with a bird's feather, or with the whiskers of a cat? Much more pleasant to view some things when sharp...

Why go to the trouble editing on the laptop when you have the calibrated desktop monitor? Besides, there is no guarantee the image would be the same after those adjustments if then viewed on the calibrated monitor. Have you tried this?

My main experience with working with an uncalibrated monitor was that the images were too dark when printed. How they look on the monitor is partly influenced by the monitor screen brightness! That is one of the nice thing about calibration, it will tell you if your monitor is too bright. Apparently we want them bright for regular use [documents, emails, websites, etc.] and then do not lower the brightness when editing photos!

Welcome to UHH! Buying a first camera can be a daunting endeavor! But since you had a camera before, tell us what kind that one was. And were you happy with it? Sometimes familiarity can go a long way toward learning a new camera because the systems and logic tend to remain similar if not the same over time.

First thing is to do some research on what is available in your price range. New is always nice, but as others have pointed out, you can get more camera for the money if you go with pre-owned. [My principle is to buy the best you can afford. Don't worry about whether it is a "starter" or more advanced. They have a lot of similarities and a similar learning curve.] But buy new or pre-owned from a trusted vendor so you have options such being able to return if it is not what you like or not in the condition expected. The trusted vendors generally don't send any clunkers! [Adorama [NYC], B&H [NYC], Cameta, KEH] Living in New Jersey, if you are within a reasonable driving distance to NYC, you could go to B&H where they have just about every camera you could want, including a selection of pre-owned that have been examined and graded so their condition is well-defined. Same thing for lenses. [Located at the corner of W 34th St and 9th Ave] In the meantime, you could use their website https://www.bhphotovideo.com to do some research. It is always good to narrow down your choices before going to any store so you are less likely to succumb to the sales pitch of someone in a camera store. [My experience with B&H has been that they will NOT pressure you. In fact, I had one of their people tell me that the lens I was considering [pre-owned] was NOT going to produce the performance I wanted!]

Be sure to read specifications as well as reviews. To understand the letters and numbers used in descriptions, I know that Nikon has a glossary that is very helpful http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Photography-Glossary/index.page
Other companies probably have something similar on their websites. And feel free to come back with more questions! Everyone has their preferred camera system, so in the end you really need to decide for yourself. The three major companies are Nikon, Canon, and Sony [for mirrorless especially], all of which produce good cameras and have a wide selection of lenses.

I am in the DSLR camp, own Nikons, but many prefer mirrorless, which have come a long way in recent times. A lot depends on what requirements you prefer in a camera. For instance, is weight an issue? You will probably want to look at crop-sensor cameras because there will be more choices at your price point. The sensors are smaller, but the quality is good - technology has come a long way, and the crop and full frame cameras share many features in common. Do not forget that you will also need to decide what lens or lenses to buy. Many cameras come "bundled" with what are generally termed as "kit" lenses, which are often quite good. Just have to determine what kind of a lens would suit your photography objectives. Many lenses have vibration reduction, which is good to have if hand-holding the camera when shooting. When I first started with DSLR, I had 2 kit lenses - 18-105mm and 70-300mm. Those were my "training wheels" and kept me happy for a couple of years before I decided to upgrade. The principle I followed was to have lenses that would cover all or at least most of the focal lengths for a variety of photographic situations. There are "all-in-one" lenses that cover a wide range of focal lengths, and many love them for the convenience. Just keep in mind that the longer the focal length range, the less likely a lens will be sharp throughout that range.

Hope this helps!
Susan

Like so many other aspects of photography, it seems like the best answer to "what should we consider when assessing a photo's merits?" would be "It depends!". Photography has so many aspects, depending on the photographer's objectives, that there is no one definition of what is right. I do my best to make photos that include as many of the qualities important to the image as I can. Not being a pro, the end result may not be as exciting as I would like! And I do not have a list to check off when evaluating. But I DO asses other things besides sharpness! As Gene pointed out, there are times when sharpness is important, and as you, Linda, pointed out, there are times when softness is important! And most important of all, is having fun with photography and getting results that I like [and hopefully others like them too...].

Looked at your photos - very good! You have certainly figured out how to work with what you have.

As for shooting .jpg, lots of people do that by choice. However, if you DO want to switch to RAW, that is a different story. I know that when I got my first DSLR, I started shooting in .jpg because I was convinced to do so by listening to what other people said. Later, I did switch to RAW and regretted not doing it sooner because I began learning to use more advanced editing programs and could see the benefits of more information in the image. I actually enjoy the editing process!

Just wondering about your "computing power". Is it actually too limited, or is it a matter of handling everything that is on the laptop? Some who use laptops will store all photos on external hard drives which frees up space and RAM. Storage is not expensive these days, which makes it a good solution until a more powerful computer purchase is possible. One thing I have done, also, is to separate out other programs from the "C" drive, which only has the operating system and some programs that refuse to go anywhere else! I have a desktop, so the extra HDs are inside, but that would still work with externals for the laptop.

Susan

Had to ask! There are other reasons why a tripod and camera can tip over, but that was the first one to come to mind.

The plate will keep the camera from rotating, but the tripod is what has to be stable enough to handle the camera-lens combination you are using. How sturdy is the tripod?

First, have you talked with him about why the first camera got lost, and what he would do this time to take better care of a camera? This would be a gentle way of letting him know that his actions can have consequences, and might make him realize that he is not going to be getting a new camera every time he loses one! No need to be harsh or accusing, he does sound like a good kid.

You ought to discuss the choice of a new camera with him. What kind of camera would he choose? Of course you will let him know about the price limitations. Open up a website such as B&H, go to cameras, and choose the price range. Then you would not have to wade through a lot of more costly cameras. You can also choose a brand if you like, and any of the other filters that are appropriate. Have him look at them with you and point out what he likes! He is old enough to make choices, and would appreciate that you respect that and want him to help you choose.

A camera should not be a status symbol ["cool"!], it is a tool. Hopefully he can understand that, especially if he knows that this is a "starter" camera where he can learn principles of good composition without having to deal with a lot of other settings. If he continues to enjoy this camera, and wants to upgrade, that would be a possibility.

Hope this helps!

I think the idea of planning your organization system ahead of time is a good one. As you can see, everyone has their own idea of the best way for them. You have to decide what would work for YOU!

A lot of people like dividing images up by years, others like to use categories and topics, some like to completely or partially change the file name, others like to leave that alone. Of course there are variations within each of those preferences which can work as well. My own system is a combination of categories, topics, and years. It works for me because I like to keep topics/locations together, regardless of when the photos were taken. So I put photos from different years into a year folder, but within the topic folder! I could go into more detail, but I think you see the overall concept. For file names, I keep the numbers, using the prefix to designate which camera, with a minor change to that when the numbers roll over at 10,000 so I won't have duplicate file names. I also will add numbers, letters, and/or words [abbreviated] at the end to indicate different versions or types of versions. [HDR, Pano, Composite, etc.]

As for how to begin, I think the first thing is to divide the images into different groups, depending on how you choose to organize them. If by year, that is where to start - create folders for each year and just start dropping images into the right one. If by topic, then you could set up major topics folders and start dropping images into the appropriate one. Don't even think about anything like whether they are keepers or duplicates. And do not initially worry about sub-groupings.

Once the first groupings are done, that is when the real work begins! Most topics have sub-topics, so those need to be chosen. Most years will have sub-topics as well that will need to be chosen. Note: both of these statements are relevant whether you are using a date system or a categories and topics system!

The most important thing is to keep it as simple as possible, and also true to the way you think, and that would make it easiest for you to find images when looking for them.

Since you are using PS only, that suggests putting the images into Bridge. That way you can easily move them in and out of PS. I have the Adobe CC subscription, so all my images are organized within LR, and can be moved between LR and PS very easily.

The topic of external drives was mentioned - don't start out too small! With the number of images you have now, 4TB will work. If you think you will be doubling your number of images within a year or so, then get a larger external HD. Two drives would be better so you can back up the backup. It is not a matter of IF a drive will fail, rather it is WHEN! I went for years without a failure, then a drive I had owned for less than a year failed! I was very glad I had another backup, so I would not feel anxious while waiting for the replacement drive to arrive. [Replaced by the manufacturer under warranty.]

Any questions? Want more details? This will take time and patience, and surely more questions will come up as you move along.

Susan

JD750 made an excellent suggestion for getting to know your camera better. Study mode works best with camera in hand! And Gene51's comments pretty much cover the rest.

I still can find a few things to say!

First, you do not say if your 70-300mm is a crop sensor or full frame lens. Nikon has 5 different versions of this lens, 3 are FX, the other 2 are DX. The use of a FF lens on a DX camera means that your images are essentially "cropped" in camera, while the DX lens will show more of the background. Different "angle of view" is the culprit behind the difference - both have a maximum magnification of 300mm. You can go to Nikon's website and do a comparison yourself of these lenses. [Choose Lenses --> DSLR --> Shop All.]

Second, you state that you would like to acquire more lenses. If you want quality lenses, it will cost more and be more expensive, plus they tend to be FX lenses and heavier than the DX lenses. If you want to own 3 lenses that are considered the most "classic" of Nikon's selection, they are: 14-24mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8, 70-200mm f/2.8. These three cover all of the basic wide angle up to zoom ranges most people need, and are all pro-quality. For longer zooms, there are a number of lenses to consider. Nikon makes the 200-500mm f/5.6, Sigma makes the 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Sport [better than the Contemporary version], and there are others I am not familiar with. Of course there are really fine prime lenses at all focal lengths, and the longer the heavier and more expensive! So there are lots to choose from.

It is good you are studying the exposure triangle [shutter speed, ISO, aperture], because that is key to understanding all of the shooting modes, but especially manual mode. The more you practice [indoors in the winter, of course!], the more intuitive your settings will become, based on the situation.

Unless you are going to a site where the lighting is significantly different from what you see out your window, you could pre-set so you don't have to do too much of that once you go outside. At least a good starting point. The tripod is nicer to travel with if it is collapsed, but under the circumstances, consider setting it up at home so the height with camera mounted is comfortable for you. Then all you have to do as soon as you get there is spread the legs, mount the camera, make a few adjustments, and point it where you want to take the photos. Do you use back button focus? That can help because you can set focus once at the scene and it won't change unless you want it to. A wired remote can also help with the cold hands because you can keep the hand in your pocket!

I like manual mode, because often I am looking for a different result than the other shooting modes will produce. A test shot when first arriving will help with exposure, which I often find is best set lower than what the in-camera meter says is "correct". As long as the shadows are not too dark, you can get back good detail in post processing. Or you could bracket shots for HDR.

One of our members on UHH, Burkphoto, posted an excellent commentary on why to use the different shooting modes. There is more than what I am sharing here, but this is the most relevant part for now. [I recently asked him if I could pass this on to others, and he said to go ahead.]

You will probably have to expand this once I post it!

Welcome to UHH! Your bird photos are great, keep up the good work.

Not familiar with Canon cameras, so cannot make any lens recommendations. But I do concur with the suggestion that you look for a pre-owned lens. Places like Adorama, B&H, Cameta, and KEH have excellent reputations for quality, prices, service, and returns policies. Plus they have clear standards for how they grade the pre-owned gear. eBay lets its vendors choose whether or not they take returns, but if an item is not as represented, eBay has a return policy that vendors need to follow. [I'm not familiar with how it works, but it ought to be explained on the site.] There are plenty of great items on the site at excellent prices.

As others have pointed out, you do not need a 500mm lens to get the appearance of having used a 500mm lens. That is because of the "crop factor". This means that a full frame 300mm lens on a full frame camera will show the same magnification of the subject, but more of the background, than a crop sensor camera. This may mean that for a close-up shot taken on a full frame camera, more cropping may be necessary. On a crop sensor camera, you get the same magnification, but the sensor only captures the middle part of the full frame lens, essentially cropping it in camera, therefore less need for cropping in post processing. So you could purchase a full frame lens, either zoom or prime, that takes images at 300mm and they will be cropped in camera to appear as though they have the reach of a ~450mm lens.

If you want a true 500mm magnification, then you are talking about much more money. But it is worth looking online for a pre-owned lens. The 150-500mm lens from Sigma comes in 2 versions. The Contemporary is less expensive, supposed to be a decent lens, but the more expensive Sport is much better. I do not know anything about the other companies' versions, but you could use the UHH search function to find this type of discussion of choosing a lens. And keep in mind that these big lenses tend to weigh in at around 5 pounds.

First, Welcome to UHH! You will get a lot of good advice here, plus a lot of differing opinions. It is up to you to decide which posts best answer your questions!

As you can deduce from the responses, the "best" or "truest" answer would be "it depends"! Gene51 and Burkphoto spoke about this in a clear, easily understood way.

It appears you have some understanding of the exposure triangle [shutter speed, aperture, ISO], but it would help a great deal if you would study it in more depth. Each adjustment of one component affects the others. Sometimes adjusting just one is impossible, and it is difficult to make a generalized recommendation on which one to consider first. Often after changing one setting, further tweaking of all three becomes necessary! With experience, you will be able to sense the best configuration for the situation, but in the meantime it is important to experiment.

Steve Perry's website has lots of good information, and there are tutorials in many places. Search for them and also when you see a photographer's work you admire, check out their website - many offer advice - both free and paid - that can be very helpful. UHH has a search function that you can use to find posts on different topics. Another source is CreativeLive.com - they have a schedule of "On Air" programs on all different kinds of information. Their photography video tutorials are given by very good instructors. If you can watch them at the time scheduled, you can watch and learn for free, plus the videos are available for sale. I tried several different sources for learning when I was getting started with my first DSLR, before settling on a selection of what I consider to be my "mentors"!

I use RRS L-brackets. The quality is exceptional, worth the price. However, they do not switch between models of cameras like a "universal" L-bracket would. This is a factor to consider.

As another person said, they are configured to fit your particular camera, not only for the openings, but also for fit against the camera body. This prevents rotation. Their camera plates are the same type of design. This is also a factor to consider. The "universal" L-brackets and camera plates are flat, so when using a heavy lens on a tripod, there is more risk of rotation [unscrewing from the body].

I also agree with the suggestion to look for pre-owned if you want to save money. You may not find the right one right away, but it is up to you whether you are willing to keep searching or buy new.

I have 2 cameras, each with its own L-bracket, that stays on that camera all the time. I also credit the L-bracket with helping to prevent damage to my camera when I took a fall, with it on a strap around my neck. [Also the lens hood helped.] The camera got a bit muddy, the L-bracket got a ding, but camera and lens survived with no damage! There was undoubtedly a bit of luck too, but luck always prefers a little help!

Hope this helps with your decision.

You are quite right - cloud backup is so you know you can get to those photos if all else fails. Eventually.

Do you have at least one backup drive? Storage on any drive should be backed up on another in case one of them fails. Then you can still get to the photos right away.