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Jun 21, 2018 11:03:59   #
From experience what lens do you use to limit the distortion of the walls on each end of the frame? I have a Canon 7D ( cropped sensor), & am using EFS-17~55mm F2.8.. I am looking to cut down on editing time (HDR) by straightening the walls... I am aware that distortion comes from the lens not being parallel to the floor, but that is not always possible... Tilt/shift? I am just getting into real estate photography, & have done a few shoots and am willing to invest in the right lens for this type of shoot...
No offense to my fellow photographers & I know many here have opinions, but I am interested in those suggestions from experienced real estate photographers.....I am aware of ways in Photoshop to straighten walls... Just looking for a way to cut down on editing time..
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Jun 20, 2018 11:09:08   #
btbg wrote:
For what it's worth I shoot sports and I shoot raw. No reason to shoot jpeg unless you shoot for Reuters. Can process and convert to jpeg to email in 30 seconds or less. When I have time to go to the office they want tiffs for printing anyway, so there is no reason to shoot anything other than raw. Not only that, you can set photoshop up to batch process, so it can do the work and process one memory card while you are still shooting another one. Doesn't really take any time and gives better results especially in low light sports than shooting jpeg will.
For what it's worth I shoot sports and I shoot raw... (show quote)



HI.. There might be a reason to shoot JPEG, when shooting sports or action, because of the faster upload ,(buffering).
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Jun 19, 2018 10:52:45   #
david vt wrote:
Hi

Well, now taken lots of pictures, and have been working on improving those skills (thanks to help from many of you). I am an amateur, and while I would like to be a good amateur, I don’t aspire to go further than that. Will be a hobby for me, not more.

On the post processing side, I feel stuck. for the last year, I have been shooting jpeg+raw. Starting with the jpegs in photos on the Mac, as I knew it, but dillegently saving the raws for when I would take the next step. I have taken advantage the basic editing capabilities of photos, but want to move to the next step (and get off the family shared MAC)

Well, I now have a windows machine capable of running post processing well (along with good backup routines) but I just can’t seem to pull the trigger on picking a post processing system and learning it. I know many of you use LR for organizing and it has a a good basic editing program (or at least more than I will need for a while). But, feel intimidated by LR for use by an beginner, and worried that if I start down that path, with what appears an elaborate library system that stores the raw “edit files” separate from the raw file, that I will be stuck there forever.

Should I feel this intimidated? If I start with LR (likely Classic via the Creative Cloud photo subscription), is there a path to something else if I don’t like it without losing all of the edit efforts up to that point?

Is there a good alternative? I have tracked and reviewed the threads here for about a year, and while there seem to be good basic alternative editors (e.g. affinity), but have not seen much discussion of on the other side of LR, its organization/library function.

So, what advise do you have for a beginner trying to pull the trigger. Should i just try LR and see if it seems to work for me? If not, what SIMPLE alternative library/basic editor software(s) would you suggest?

Thanks in advance for your advise (and indulgence)
Hi br br Well, now taken lots of pictures, and ha... (show quote)


Hi.... I suspect that you have trouble with anything that is new & learning new things. Please don't take that as demeaning ... I have a partner in my Photography business, who is very smart and comprehends quickly BUT she fights learning new things, change, & keeping up with the new stuff that comes up in our business.. When she does take the time to learn new things it comes fast..
Unless you take hundreds of pictures at one time on a shoot you really don't need LR.. Adobe photoshop, is a miracle program, for simple or complex editing.. Learning PS is an ongoing process, learning as you go.. I suggest you use youtube videos for your learning...
I have been using both for yrs and I still go to youtube for updates...
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Jun 17, 2018 21:36:21   #
out4life2016 wrote:
I shoot this photo a few weeks ago and decided to see what it was like blown up to a 20x30 and framed it since I liked it so much. Several coworkers have asked if I was willing to sell it and I'm trying to determine a fair price. The print was 20 dollars and the frame and matting was another 115 dollars. Any advice would be helpful. I am including a photo of the finished item and the original copy below. Thank you for all honest opinions.


HI OUT4LIFE... You may have just hit on something... Maybe you have just discovered you have talent, & maybe you can make some money at your hobby.... I would not sell myself short and give away my talent... I suggest cost + talent as the price.. Obviously the shot is more than just ordinary, enough for someone to want to buy it..... People are reluctant to spend money but if they really want something they will spend ...... I suggest that you go to a local outdoor art show and see what the range is in your area.
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Jun 17, 2018 21:19:07   #
CaptMD wrote:
New to photography, five years. New to Ugly Hedgehog...love it! Photography was suggested to me in a PTSD group, they were right, life looks brighter now . Anyway, I like Luminar and Aurora, easy to use, easy to understand. What concerns me, I want to join some photography workshops hosted by (for Example) 'Arizona Highways', however when the "golden hours" are finished, the rest of the time is spent working on your photographys using...what else, Lightroom and Photoshop. Why? Are those two processing programs the oldest kids on the block, is that the reason? Insights would be appreciated.
New to photography, five years. New to Ugly Hedgeh... (show quote)


Hi Capt.... Since you are New to photography or should I say Digital photography, I think it is important that you understand what "DIGITAL" means in todays photography..Computers represent everything as numbers. In fact, they represent everything using only two numbers, zero and one. Expressing numbers as zeroes and ones is known as using binary code numbers. As example, a specific hue of red is (11111111,00000000,00000000). So what comes out of your camera are code numbers...These numbers create a picture made up of pixels. When you shoot in RAW all of the "DATA", coming from your camera sensor, is put into a RAW converter program to make a picture.... Once inside the program (photoshop or LightRoom) you can EDIT or change the numbers and change color and other things... Now to answer your question; LightRoom is special raw converter program that is used when a photographer takes hundreds and hundreds of pictures at a shoot, as do wedding photographers... They use this Program because its designed to sort and select quickly, where photoshop is a program designed to work with pixels. There you can move pixels around and do some spectacular graphics edits...
I use both because, as a professional photographer ( full time career), I need LightRoom to sort and select and on occasion I will use photoshop for editing...
Imagine taking 800 shots and you need to select the best ones, thats LightRoom, but on a few I need to remove, lets say some telephone wires or a tattoo from a brides arm, from the shot, thats Photoshop... Most here do not need LightRoom because they don't have to select from hundreds.. Both LightRoom and PhotoShop have the same RAW converter and editing controls...
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Jun 16, 2018 00:00:59   #
Transbuff1985 wrote:
If a person is shooting ISO 1800, shutter speed of 1/125 can you still get motion blur or is camera shake or something else?
Thank you
Bob


Hi Bob.. If you have a steady hand than its the subject that is moving... I shoot at 1/1000th for movement... Big problems shooting in low light without a flash, because you need a fast lens ( 2.8 or better), a camera that has low noise at ISO 800~1500%, Just to get a shutter speed at 1/1000. Using a flash ( if permitted) it will have a strobe effect in that it freezes motion ( make sure your flash is set to Highspeed above 1/250th) .... In daylight it isn't a problem. I would shoot in Aperture priority setting the aperture to the Depth of field you want and keep an eye on the shutter speed.
If you are shooting sports it is artistic to allow a little bit of motion blur, IE. the pitchers hand slightly blurred...
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Jun 11, 2018 13:43:35   #
out4life2016 wrote:
I am currently shooting with a canon T3 and would like to purchase a flash unit for this camera. Unfortantly I have no clue what to look for when buying a flash. My budget being a single parent is limited to about 100 dollars. Can anyone give me some details about what I need to look for in a flash or any links to study about flashes. Ive tried the internet and youtube but the terminology used is something I know nothing about. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you all for any advice. Reason for this purchase is for a friends up coming wedding that I am shooting for free due to they can not afford a photographer and its a chance to practice. I have made them aware that buy no means am I a professional and this is just a hobby of mine but I still want to give them the best photos I can.
I am currently shooting with a canon T3 and would ... (show quote)



You are not responsible for what you dont know, However there are consequences.. You are very brave to do something that pros do, for the first time.. This is an opportunity to learn but hopefully not at the expense of losing a friend.. I suggest that you donate $ to her wedding photographer, or ask the photographer if you could be a second shooter...
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Jun 11, 2018 13:27:48   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Besides pros want to work as little as possible. There is no joy in the work. Get it done and get paid.


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Jun 11, 2018 13:26:21   #
canadaboy wrote:
Having fiddled around for some time and missing out on way too many photo opportunities fiddling with manual settings, these days I simply set my camera on "P", ISO on Auto with a maximum value set to control the shutter speed, and rely on the number of focus points that I choose to set the depth of field by virtue of the camera selected aperture.

Who else actually trusts their camera and their ability to operate it similarly?


Hi when I do weddings or special events, I have an assistant, but she is not experienced enough to use any mode but "P". She backs me up and I would say she gets about 1 out of every 10 shots she takes... I know, others here will say its not the Program mode but her in experience, which to some small degree I do agree... Low light shooting especially weddings does call for experience.. It is more like a "point and shoot " for her... "P" mode is not fully automatic in that you can tweak the exposure compensation wheel or bracket... It is just a matter of learning how your camera works and Manual will easy...
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Jun 9, 2018 12:43:33   #
Studio work... The hours of waiting around... clients not showing up on time or cancelling an hour after shoot time.....
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Jun 8, 2018 12:23:37   #
BebuLamar wrote:
The OP didn't ask such a question..


Correct!
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Jun 7, 2018 15:59:49   #
I shoot for a living, so it's the business side of photography that I dislike mostly... I am passionate about taking photos, and the passion is still there after over a decade of being in the business side of photography....
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Jun 7, 2018 13:49:47   #
To add to my original question; how many here photograph for Money? Are in the business of photography and what manufacture's camera do you use, & why?????
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Jun 7, 2018 13:45:49   #
torchman310 wrote:
Just remember: Nikon cameras and lenses are used on our Space Station and other missions into space !


Hi torch man....To be fair, its not the Canon bodies that are at issue with NASA, but their lenses ...https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/9952054
Not likely that the rest of us would be shooting in outer space...
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Jun 7, 2018 13:23:11   #
appealnow wrote:
Maybe the Nikon users remember to state the camera they have in posing their questions.
It also bugs me that even when cameras or lenses are mentioned, the poster forgets to note if it is full frame or crop sensor. While I am pretty familiar with the Nikon products, I have no clue about the other manufacturers.


Appealnow... So true and you raise a good point... I wonder how many here use FF? That would be interesting!
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