twosummers wrote:
Hi there again experts.
I take photographs for UK estate agents for their property advertising on MLS portals. I am routinely now asked to "blur out" any photographs (wall mounted or free standing on furniture etc) featuring people (sadly for obvious reasons). Often I can remove the photographs from the shot but this is not always possible nor desirable.
I see MLS photographs with such pictures neatly and evenly blurred but cannot figure out how this is achieved.
Over to you.........
Hi there again experts. br br I take photographs... (
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Hello. I am a real estate photographer and having a problem with one of my agents that cant upload my shots into the Paragon system. im emailing her image dimentions of 640 x427px @72 which has a file size of 150~200k what size do you send your clients ?
Hi every one. I am addressing this question to real estate professionals of which I am a real estate photographer and having trouble with my real estate agent being able to upload my shots to the Paragon system.. I am sending an image size of 640x427 pixels @ 72 resulting in a file size of around 150~200k. I don't understand why she cannot get them into Paragon . My client says she cant "resize" to fit. I don't know why she needs to resize what Im sending since Paragon told me the dimintions should be 640x480? Help.
I don't know how Paragon comes up with 640x480? what can I do to bring the 427 up to 480? Paragon tech told me the size could be up to 10mb. I have always sent out around 1mg files with no problem..
Bill P wrote:
Sorry, I did not interpret cabilbrated Mac to calibrated monitor. Actually, I have been told endlessly by highly skilled Mac users that the monitors can't be calibrated and others that say they don't need it. As an ordinary poor person, I don't know about mac's but I do know that there are many complaints of too dark prints.
Hi Bill To clear up a misunderstanding about "Mac calibration", Most computers today have the monitor built into the computer, as in a laptop, or other manufactures... When you calibrate your computer you are calibrating the monitor. That cleared up, you have been sadly misinformed about monitor calibration. Any monitor PC, desktop or projector can be calibrated. You may want to upgrade your knowledge about this subject... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HV3RqTWirNQ
ngrea wrote:
I’m volunteer in a nursing home and am currently doing portraits of the residents, who will then decorate frames to have them to give to family as Christmas presents.
One resident always wears glasses with dark brown bifocal lenses. I have little trouble dealing with reflections on clear lenses, but the dark lenses are giving me problems. The resident isn’t able to follow directions on how to tilt her head or change her pose, and I’m not sure if I can get her to pose again, so I need to take care of it in editing. If I clone or airbrush enough to remove the reflection, the lens looks solid, rather than semi-transparent. Does anyone have suggestions? The best I’ve been able to do is tone down the reflection so it is less noticeable.
Per HIPPA (healthcare privacy) regulations I can’t post any example.
Any ideas will be appreciated!
I’m volunteer in a nursing home and am currently d... (
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Hi thank you for taking their Christmas photos.. Have you tried bouncing a flash off of the ceiling? can you position them next to sun lit window?
via the lens wrote:
Check on what paper they use and what else they do to the image (add templets?). You can look at one of your images in Proof Mode, a box that is checked at the bottom of the screen in Develop Mode, and it will let you see what the image looks like in a variety of papers. You can create a Proof Print, it's simply a virtual copy, in Proof Print mode and then you can edit that copy for any particular paper you want to use. The paper used makes a lot of difference. Don't let the lab edit your images, you've already done that, and if you use Proof Mode you will know what the image will look like on the paper they use. You should be able to get their ICC profile if you ask and then you can edit to that.
Check on what paper they use and what else they do... (
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Hi I agree that the paper is a factor as well as soft proofing their ICC profile... The temples you asked about, are part of their services... I do youth picture day for youth sports clubs, in which the parents choose a variety of packages ranging from memory mates which have their child's image as well as their team included on 1- 8x10, to sports tickets .. each print has a templet added.. I feel however that me editing and them editing and the printer ICC profile interfere with each other... I am satisfied with them doing the editing and me just sending them straight out of the camera... I save lots of time... I also wonder about the fact that I send them a JPEG. How does a color lab edit a JPEG? Shouldn't they edit raws? TIFFS? I think they really don't edit them but put them into their printer and the printer is set to an average not a custom edit....
Bill P wrote:
Do you calibrate your monitor? I'll bet the lab does. Using an uncalibrated monitor is notorious for resulting in too dark prints, because viewing on a monitor is , well, lit up. The statement that you have a bad lab is based on ignorance. If you send it edited and indicate non changes, you get exactly what you sent.
It will help if you read my opening statements... "Just a quick reply. I shoot picture day for youth sports clubs, & after a shoot I wind up with around 80 to a hundred images from LR quick selection. I outsource my images to a color lab where they add templets. I have for yrs spent hours on LR doing a full color and exposure post edit procedure ( adjusting using a calibrated Mac, and using the histogram as my guide to exposure), only to get photos from the lab, that are dark, over saturated & little or no detail in the blacks. After post editing the RAWS, I export as a JPEG, ( as per their request), and send them to the lab. I know the lab does some editing to my images. Soooooo recently I decided to export all RAW images, converted to JPEGs, to the lab straight out of the camera, & to my surprise all photos were excellent.
I am confused as to why this happens.. Could it be that my editing is not compatible with their printers ICC? Any ideas?"
So to be clear, I use a calibrated monitor, as well as using the histogram in LR to assist on exposure corrections. I also stated " Soooooo recently I decided to export all RAW images, converted to JPEGs, to the lab straight out of the camera, & to my surprise all photos were excellent". I still would appreciate your input about my question," I am confused as to why this happens.. Could it be that my editing is not compatible with their printers ICC? Any ideas?".
I have through the years has a wonderful relationship with this company and wish to continue using them... In summery; I will save my time and continue using their printing services, However I still don't understand why my LR editing comes back unsatisfactory. that in fact was my question that went unanswered. & since I am satisfied with their prints without my editing I will still use them... Hey Bill think of the hours of time I will be saving...
HI let me put my 2cents in... There is a difference between shots from a full time commercial photographer, that makes his living taking photos & one that does not. As a business I shoot for my client, giving them what they ask me for. I have an art background so composition comes naturally... I think a person looks at a photo to see what interest them.. For portraiture obviously its the face and what it relates. Its an open book at what others see in a landscape.... Actually Black&White photography is most dramatic and most difficult to artistically capture.... hope that helps
DennisC. wrote:
Do you change the exposure much when you edit? The Mac monitors are overly saturated and bright for printing, especially if the lab is using a Windows machine.
Hi Dennis... I adjust my RAWS in LR and use the histogram for over exposure. I do not understand how to get the correct brightness on my screen. This is why I adjust using the histogram.
Gene51 wrote:
Bad lab. But now with the autoadjust feature, which can be put into a preset, will get you very close to ideal, usually with only a slight adjustment necessary.
Hi Gene. It has been a while since we chatted.. I moved down to the NJ shore... Been busy settling in.... The thing that confuses me Gene is why are the prints good when I don't do any post editing in LR?
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
Time to get a better Color Lab, or at least one that understands what color is.
Hi thanks for your comment... I wasn't sure if it was my post editing or theirs... All were shot in camera RAW and sent to the lab as JPEGS.. I wonder why their prints came out excellent? I also sent them JPEGS that I had edited from my raws and told them not to edit print as is... The prints turned out excellent.. I think there is some reason why the prints are bad when they edit my edits...
Just a quick reply. I shoot picture day for youth sports clubs, & after a shoot I wind up with around 80 to a hundred images from LR quick selection. I outsource my images to a color lab where they add templets. I have for yrs spent hours on LR doing a full color and exposure post edit procedure ( adjusting using a calibrated Mac, and using the histogram as my guide to exposure), only to get photos from the lab, that are dark, over saturated & little or no detail in the blacks. After post editing the RAWS, I export as a JPEG, ( as per their request), and send them to the lab. I know the lab does some editing to my images. Soooooo recently I decided to export all RAW images, converted to JPEGs, to the lab straight out of the camera, & to my surprise all photos were excellent.
I am confused as to why this happens.. Could it be that my editing is not compatible with their printers ICC? Any ideas?
Just a quick reply. I shoot picture day for youth sports clubs, & after a shoot I wind up with around 80 to a hundred images from LR quick selection. I outsource my images to a color lab where they add templets. I have for yrs spent hours on LR doing a full color and exposure post edit procedure ( adjusting using a calibrated Mac, and using the histogram as my guide to exposure), only to get photos from the lab, that are dark, over saturated & little or no detail in the blacks. After post editing the RAWS, I export as a JPEG, ( as per their request), and send them to the lab. I know the lab does some editing to my images. Soooooo recently I decided to export all RAW images, converted to JPEGs, to the lab straight out of the camera, & to my surprise all photos were excellent.
I am confused as to why this happens.. Could it be that my editing is not compatible with their printers ICC? Any ideas?
lsupremo wrote:
Ok you real estate Hoggers, which of my lens on my Nikon D7100 would yo use for inside panorama photos?
1. Nikkor DX 18-140mm, 1:3.5-5.6 set to around 18mm.
2. Tokina SD 11-16mm, f2.8 DX set around 13 to 15mm.
My concerns are primarily about distortion and sharpness.
As to the distortion question... You need to have the camera parallel to the floor in order to keep the lens distortion at a minimum. Bring a level or eye it in live view.
Gene51 wrote:
That's called keystoning, and it's not really a distortion. It is a viewpoint visual phenomenon. If you look down a railroad track, you will see the rails appear to come together in the distance. This is exactly what is happening when you point a camera up or down, or the sensor is not parallel to the wall surface - you will get these new, and sometimes multiple vanishing points.
You would edit in DXO Viewpoint. It works best when the lens and camera you are using is in DXO's database of lenses and cameras - and you have the original raw file that it can access to make automatic lens corrections prior to messing around with the viewpoints and keystoning. You'll find DXO's lens profiles are way better than those in Lightroom and Photoshop.
That's called keystoning, and it's not really a di... (
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Thanks for the correct technical term... What about the lens? does this add to the Keystoning effect? I am not interested in a tilt/shift adapter or lens.... Ill check out viewpoint..
Gene51 wrote:
Are you talking about curved distortion - usually barrel in wide lenses - or keystoning from not holding the camera level?
I use a couple of tilt shift lenses, but the tripod and camera levels are your best friends in this situation. Then to correct minor keystoning you can use DXO Viewpoint 3 - which does a really good job at correcting keystoning while having the least amount of negative impact on the image.
A tilt shift lens will have a very small impact on your shooting time - you still need to level your camera. Then you shift to include more top, bottom, left or right. I use shift to create a simple pano using just the shift to hit all the areas I can without moving the camera. That often works well for me.
Are you talking about curved distortion - usually ... (
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Hi Gene.. I am not sure what the correct term is... but it is when the walls are tilted ... Not curved... There is a tilt "horizontal and vertical" in LR ( under "transform" edit), that I have been using for quick tilt or shift... It works ok but I like better.... I am not at all satisfied with " edit in abobe photoshop" Edit/transform.. I tried all of the transform choices, finding it warps and takes forever..... Im going to try the DXO viewpoint.... Can I edit in that program and not leave LR, Like I do using "edit in" and save it back to LR..?