This question is for current and former Nikon entry level model users. Have you ever had trouble outdoors in bright light reading the exposure meter and settings in the optical viewfinder? It can be so hard to read at times, even when wearing a hat, that I sometimes have to use an auto setting and just hope. The higher end models probably have a brighter readout in the OVF, but after having used a Fujifilm X-S1 with a very impressive EVF prior to the D3300 (chosen because I still have very old NIKKORs) I am considering the X-T[nn] line or X-H1 with IBIS over the D750, not for IQ although either route would be an upgrade, but just to be able to shoot outdoors more easily. Anyone else had this issue? Is the D750 easier to read in bright light? I have not tried a X-T10, etc. but if the EVF is anywhere as good as the X-S1, that might do it even if it isn’t FF like the D750. For other reasons I am not interested in Canon, Sony, Pentax, or M4/3, all great but not on the list right now.

Most of us have either experienced or at least seen the effects of shooting a person too close and too wide. The results are terrible, with the wide nose and odd shaped cheek bones.

I've recently started shooting a Canon crop body camera and I am wondering if the distortion is less than it is with a full frame?

Lens opening / Crop Body Equivalent
16mm -------/ -----25.6
24mm ------ / ------38.4
35mm ----- / ------56
50mm ----- / ------80

If I had a full frame and a crop body both, I could test this myself, but since I don't, I'm reaching our for thoughts??

Thanks!

In the attached image you can see what appears to be lint in the image in the upper left portion in the sky. I've been mirrorless cameras for over a year now and have noticed that the sensor is very hard to keep clean. I preformed a test using 2 mirrorless cameras and 2 cameras with mirrors. The camera specs were very similar, full frame with the same native resolutions. Each camera used a 300mm telephoto lens. Each camera was set up with aperture priority and an ISO of 400. The dust became noticeable at f-stops f16 and smaller on the mirrorless camera (f-16 thru f-32). The smaller the stop the more noticeable. The mirrored camera were free of any noticeable aberrations. Each lens was cleaned prior to the testing. The mirrorless camera sensors were cleaned according to the manufacturer instructions and then manually cleaned. All the cleaning did was move the aberrations around or even create new ones. Does the mirror protect the sensor in cameras with mirrors? Does the sensor in mirrorless cameras attract dust because of an electrical charge? Has anybody else noticed this issue on their mirrorless cameras? It is usually most noticeable in clear blue sky like the attachment.

In the attached image you can see what appears to be lint in the image in the upper left portion in the sky. I've been mirrorless cameras for over a year now and have noticed that the sensor is very hard to keep clean. I preformed a test using 2 mirrorless cameras and 2 cameras with mirrors. The camera specs were very similar, full frame with the same native resolutions. Each camera used a 300mm telephoto lens. Each camera was set up with aperture priority and an ISO of 400. The dust became noticeable at f-stops f16 and smaller on the mirrorless camera (f-16 thru f-32). The smaller the stop the more noticeable. The mirrored camera were free of any noticeable aberrations. Each lens was cleaned prior to the testing. The mirrorless camera sensors were cleaned according to the manufacturer instructions and then manually cleaned. All the cleaning did was move the aberrations around or even create new ones. Does the mirror protect the sensor in cameras with mirrors? Does the sensor in mirrorless cameras attract dust because of an electrical charge? Has anybody else noticed this issue on their mirrorless cameras? It is usually most noticeable in clear blue sky like the attachment.

I would appreciate it, if any of you have used software to removed unwanted objects or people from a photo. I would seldom want to use it, but I have this lovely photo of my granddaughter (6th grade), that is doing hurdles for the first time. I do have Photoshop Elements, but I haven't learned how to do layers, and I don't even know if that would do the job. I am planning on attaching a file of one of the photos I am interested in removing people from. The girl in blue is my granddaughter. Thank you kindly for any suggestions. (This is a enlarged, cropped version of the original.)

Well, is it the manual dials on the visceral Fuji XT3 challenging or do you prefer menu systems, or...? I use both FF Nikon D800 and Fuji XT3 & XF100. I prefer the Fuji gear for the following:

Size, weight, visceral manual controls that are also confirmed in the fabulous EV, the film-like colour options, it’s ability to make people look soooo good (colour), pricing, absolutely pristine lens options, flash options combined with leaf shutter, and on & on. Yes, my tank is Nikon gear is wonderful in its own right, just not wonderful enough to make the grab when I head out the door 95% of the time.

If you don’t prefer your Fuji gear, there is a well-established second-hand Fuji market out there.

Cheers!

Up to a point, you are correct, but if you tilt a camera up, having the sensor not perpendicular to gravity does create 'unnatural' view that the brain rebels against, and this effect is more evident as the view becomes wider. For example, both views below were taken last Spring at 10mm with my Pentax KP. In both views I held the camera over my head, but the second one, the one I actually used by cropping out much of the street, all buildings appear to be basically parallel, as they actually are - the first one, tilted up it turns out, the leftmost and rightmost buildings look unnaturally tilting towards each other..
..

Ok... So this IS a perspective issue ( I said earlier is was not, without a sample)(keystoning), caused by the camera/lens pointing up or down slightly. Sensor is not perfectly parallel to subject. It can be corrected in light room.

One way to minimise this is using a tripod, and make sure it is level in both directions, and use a nodal rail.

This may help....https://digital-photography-school.com/why-are-my-buildings-falling-over-a-short-guide-to-perspective-distortion-and-correction-in-photography/

I own a Nikon D750 and my lenses include Nikon's 85mm f1.4, 24-70mm f2.8 and 70-200mm f4. I want to get a wide angle for landscapes but I just don't want the bulbous front on the 14-24mm. I use NISI filters on many occasions and want a bit more ease attaching the filter system. I've had my eye on the Nikon 16-35mm f4 and the prime 20mm f1.8 but I would love your advice on a wide angle you use that I haven't researched or if I'm on the right track with one of these two lenses. Thank you in advance.