Raw is mostly lossless in terms of Data information. Sony has a bit of a reputation of lossy compression of data. I know the Pentax K1 and K1 mark II differ in that the mark II applies noise reduction to raw files (it also has a massively expanded iso range). I do not appreciate the compression in the mark II. I would rather be selective in deciding where to apply it. There is no option to turn it off. If It could be turned off I might have chosen to buy the mark II (there was an option to retrofit the 'accelerator' to the mark1) If it's raw it should be raw and not some mock raw. I really don't think the expanded iso range is worth anything. It's still going to be pretty horrible.

A raw file doesn't look like a photograph!
Each photosite records light through a green red or blue filter and there are twice as many green sites as blue or red so most raw files are going to look predominantly green before debayering.

Debaying is an educated guess at what the missing 2 color values should be. If you have a green photosite then the red and blue values can be estimated from the neighboring red and blue sites, it's a bit more complicated than that but you get the principle.

After debayering, you have a very flat image, the subject is washed out looking very little contrast. Sharpening essentially increase the contrast between pixels dark are made darker light are made lighter a contrast curve is applied, darker pixels are made darker brighter ones brighter. there is a cut off point where below a certain value pixels are set as black and above a certain value white. Now this is approaching the final jpeg image where these modified values are written to file.

The way jpegs work is they minimise the colors recorded, mostly it's good enough but with fine color changes such as a blue sky you can get banding and manipulating the tones in the sky can make the banding worse. The limited dynamic range of an image compared to the real thing makes for details to be sacrificed a common issue is skys being white instead of blue because they are way brighter than your main subject. The creation of the jpeg file leads to the brightest details being blown or the darkest details being black those details have been removed from the image. You are very limited in a jpeg as to what details can be recovered from the shadows and highlights. The trouble with a jpeg is you only have the result of the previous manipulations. A jpeg has been manipulated in camera by fully automated methods. If you have shot in Raw many cameras will give many variations of automated methods in camera.

Take the number 12 i'll tell you that it's the result of me adding 2 numbers together but i won't tell you which ones one of them was recorded by the camera sensor the other was added by the application of a curve. what part of 12 was from the sensor value and what the curve?
It's impossible to know, there's people in the camera company that might have a clue as to what curve was applied , possibly.

A raw file is data that is subject to interpretation and a jpeg has been interpreted already. When you look at the jpeg its interpreted again just play with your display brightness the colors change! depending on the monitor calibration say a shade of brown might appear orange on one screen brown on another and it's the same exact file! Even a print will look different under different lighting. As for different people who knows how their eyes interpret the image.

Each camera is going to record the light colors slightly differently the red blue and green filters do not perfectly filter the frequencies of light hitting the filter e.g the red filter will mainly pass red but also some green and blue. This is why a colorchecker passport with known color values is useful it can be used to generate some corrected values , not every value but enough so that 2 different cameras can be profiled to give similar enough results that its very hard to see a difference. Around 5% or less in difference is going to be good enough.

So why edit raw? having all the original data means more freedom to interpret that data. A simple example what might appear to be a plain white sky can have th highlights pulled back down so blue sky is shown and there is detail in the clouds. That detail has been lost in the jpeg file if its white the best you can do is make it all gray or leave it white.

Because there is a contrast curve baked into a jpeg applying a second curve distorts the first curve reinforcing at some points cancelling out at others. This degrades the image.

Most image editors tend to preprocess a raw file initially to something similar to what the jpeg looks like. However if you adjust the contrast curve its being calculated from the raw data not adding a curve on top of a curve giving more pleasing results. You are less likely to see banding in skies , a more reasonable contrast without haloing. Applying the camera profile you generated with the color checker can help colors be displayed realistically. Of course you can wreck an image with badly judged edits quite easily too.

To be fair most people will be unaware of the difference if they are not viewing the same photo side by side and even then they are unlikely to care. So it really is a personal choice of where your pursuit of perfection starts and finishes, if you have a customer they have an expectation but may not be prepared to pay for it. Not every photo is worth spending time on, taking better photographs is a better use of your time.

Better use of light composition and your camera settings wins pretty much all the time and if a photo doesn't work take another.

Wired internet isn't possible where i live so i use prepay sims,unlimited data for 28 days when i top up by 20 euro I use 4G data so a pretty good speed at the end of 28days i swop sim cards and i have 20 euro for calls and texts which i can use anywhere.
If I need data i just take the modem with me, its usb so can run on a usb battery pack or in the car plugged into the lighter.

I keep one prepay phone with a sim for incoming calls requires a 5 euro top up every 6 months I have whatsApp on there so if its on wifi and mostly it is I can call via that for free. My biggest problem if you can call it that is having too much call credit currently around 80 euros. If i'm at home or near my modem i can even send texts via that (texts are free in the 28 day top up period).

I essentially have 2 lans at home my internal lan is based round a router with gigabit ethernet and 2.4 and 5Ghz wireless. Its gateway is a small access point thats only 100Mbit but thats enough for internet traffic and that is wirelessly connected to my 4g modem. By keeping the internet seperate from my lan internal traffic isn't slowed down by passing through the modem, it also still works when i take the modem away. I've done away with TV saving 160 euro on a license, I do have Amazon prime for free delivery mainly but it gives me access to free films and tv shows.

So all in my internet costs me 260 euro a year + 10 euro for the incoming phone. I save 160 euro just by not having a TV (i have sky news via apple tv + others) I think a landline costs 17 euro a month + 25 for internet service call it 500 euro a year + call charges, no i'm wrong the cheapest package is 60 euro a month so 720 a month + the 160, 880 + what ever mobile service i would use on top (maybe my current prepay option) so maybe 1100 a year + being mobile based I can use my connection anywhere in Europe although out of Ireland i'm limited to 6GB of data. My modem is unlocked so if that became an issue a local prepay sim for about 20 euro would be an option. Oh and usually once a month i get another 10 euro of call credit added to the current sim card balance. If there is a downside I don't get sports channels or pay per view, but that does not interest me anyway.

I guess I should also add I don't rent mobiles, I have an iPhone 6 and 7+ mainly for 4k video and using with my drone. My main phone is still an iphone 3 or 4 (it usually will go 3 or 4 days on a charge paid 5 euro for that phone). The incoming phone is an Android phone that sometimes gets used for GPS with offline maps but if I have my modem with me then it can be live data as well.

My one utility bill is for electricity , heating is via a kerosene boiler which isn't cheap but it only runs in the winter, if i had access to mains gas that is cheaper to run but then I would also pay standing charges in the summer, my oil tank is free :) Mains Electricity bills are mostly standing charges, however I use the electricity makes very little difference to the bill since units are about 20% of the cost.

That really isn't true, filmmakers love vintage lenses especially primes. Flange focal distance is the main issue with adopting lenses on DSLRs the focal length of the lens is split between the distance from the sensor to the mount and the physical lens. With a DSLR the split occurs quite far out due to the mirror box, which often leaves very little or no room for an adapter. A glassed adapter usually acts as a teleconverter.

When you are adapting to a mirrorless system the possibilities are endless. Many mirrorless systems use a relatively small sensor, which results in a large crop factor e.g a gh4 would have a crop factor of 2x making a 135mm lens have a field of view of a 270mm lens.

Since 35mm format lenses have a much bigger image circle, there are good quality adapters known as "speed boosters" which compress the image circle closer to the one needed by the modern camera this reduces the crop factor and increases the density of photons in this smaller image circle the over all effect is to create a lens which is faster than the lens was in the 35mm system and a field of view which is also closer to the field of view of the original lens system.

Modern digital lenses can be quite clinical in image quality, which isn't what most filmmakers want, a vintage lens can add character and atmosphere and has manual aperture and a smooth focus ring designed for manual focus.

So vintage lenses can be sort after and actually be worth significant money, many are less valuable too, but somebody will usually be prepared to buy at the right price. Lenses suffering from fungus are fairly worthless but if they haven't been badly etched you may find someone willing to gamble and disassemble and clean the lens.

rice doesn't work, Paper towels can help IPA can work to remove the liquid and gunk but the first thing to do is pull the battery. Trouble with a camera is they are hard to get into to clean them off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxmufw2YQwY

You haven't added a location to your profile so if you look for your location it says in hiding, it's a bit of a joke.

I think i am improving

(Download)

Ok the basic setup me sat in an office chair shooting a barebulb into an umbrella softbox with diffusion the softbox is about 7 feet high on the stand if im on a clock dial the camera is facing me directly and the soft box is to a 45 degree but i'm not getting a triangle.

Can anyone point me in the right direction please.

best light so far

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Should see where the Pentax is Sat :)

Photorec or testdisk from CGsecurity use the image creation option first and recover from the image.
Sometimes its the filesystem that is corrupted with blocks that can't be corrected (not being able to be written to). Oh and if you are on a mac you can double click the disk image and read it just like any other drive even thou its just a big file.

If you have a gmail account the max attachment size is 25MB if attachments exceed that size then gmail automatically saves them to your google drive and inserts a link into your email which is automatically shared with the recipient.

Don't subscribe, it's not like there are no other options. I try not to take photos that can only be fixed in photoshop :)

Thank you for your reply Ed,
I know have 2 AD200 pro's in my kit, with xpro-p trigger

2 43" 110cm Round 5 in 1 reflectors
Phot-R 150x200cm Black & White Collapsible Background

Godox Ad-s7 Multi-functional 45cm Umbrella Softbox Soft Box
Walimex Pro umbrella softbox reflector 109 cm
a couple more umbrellas around the same size.

GODOX S-R1 Round Head Accessories Adapter
Godox H200R Ring Flash Head
Neewer AK-R1 Round Head Flash Accessories Kit (same as godex but cheaper)

Godox AD-S17 Wide Angle Shade Photography Diffuser (mainly for the backplate it can fit the open bulb head inside a bowens/elenchrome speedlight adapter 1 of each)

Godox WITSTRO AD-B2 AD200 Dual Power Flash Head Bowens Mount
2 x ec200 extension cables (allows the flash head to be at top of the stand with the body mounted near the ground to protect it)

Elinchrom bowens adapter ring to fit bowens to elinchrom
Elinchrom , snoot, 7 inch reflector, barndoors, grid 4 x filters octagonal soft box (2 layers diffusion + honeycomb grid)
Bowens beauty dish with grid + diffuser
3 E27 continuous light heads (came with '600 watt' bulbs that were under powered) have 2 105 watt cfl and 1 x 40 watt led bulbs)
3 meter wide backdrop. numerous light stands.
3 Speedlight flash (2 can alter their output auto magically i think) a couple of rt603 transceivers (these also have pc-sync ports)
nd filters various sizes + step up/down rings, flash meter, color checker passport.


I haven't got much in the way of gels, just the 4 from the ak-r1 kit.

I'm thinking of getting the Rogue Grid Flash Gel Kit for 3-in-1 Grid System to use in combination with the 2 round head adapters, they fit under the magnetic rings and are labeled. The godex filters fit in a ring between 2 plastic plates and are not labeled.

Folding Umbrella Strip Softbox and Grid, no idea what size to get or if i would need it to be honest

now i have the 2 ad200 pro's i think I have a fairly portable setup that will transport fairly easily. The trouble with some of the bowens / elinchrom modifiers is the bulk.

I'm not sure what to do with the ad200pro's put them in a big foam case or keep them in the small cases which would fit in a backpack along with my camera + probably another bag for light stands and umbrellas.

This almost seems like a confession, way too much gear but i'd be interested in suggestions for whats missing and the best way to store and transport this.

Hi i have 1 ad200pro. I am thinking about buying a second ad200 or ad200pro. How would you spend my money?

I have a couple of manual speedlights and an elinchrom studio light.

She is far more than a beautiful face, and she isn't ruined. As for critique i feel the right hand side needs more than pretty much blown out sky it's a distraction from the subject.