Thanks for the kind words, peteto, raymondh, and sailorsmom.

It is second to my 85mm 1.8 as far as time spent on my camera. In order to use autofocus it needs a camera with an internal focus motor. Autofocus is therefore slower than a AF-S lens.

I find my copy a bit soft at f/2 but extremely sharp by f/4. I normally use it @ f/4 and 1/200 or faster. I find my usable images drop significantly below those settings. That is unless I'm on a tripod shooting something that does not move.

I read the defocus control makes very subtle changes to the focus area, either throwing foreground or background out of focus sooner. I've tried using it a few times on a tripod shooting motionless subjects and my old eyes cannot detect a real difference. I no longer use that option at all.

Here's a couple showing lights and focus fall-off @f/4:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-431955-1.html

Although the above images were shot at slower shutter speeds, I was using a tripod and the subject remained motionless.

And, another, again @ f/4. (She moved so much during this shoot, nothing was sharp enough for me at f/2.8 or below).

It's a very good lens. But, if I were buying today... I think I might opt for the Nikon 105mm f/1.4. Or, if I really wanted another 135mm, the Zeiss Apo Sonnar T* 2/135 ZF.2 (no AF but ultra sharp @f/2).

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I appreciate you taking the time to comment, Rob48.

Thanks, par4fore.

Thank you, kpmac.

A close up shot with 3 speedlights, a reflector, and a few gels.

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The test I'm referring to takes all communication between camera and flash or trigger and flash out of the equation.

Ideally, I would set up my flash light meter and hold the flash in hand... press the 'pilot/test' button and record the output changes at different power settings.

Absent a meter, I would do the same hand-held test and look for a short recycle time at 1/128, and a long recycle time and louder pop at 1/1.

If the power is changing hand held, the problem could just be faulty or dirty contacts at the flash foot, faulty transceiver(s), or maybe even a dirty camera hot shoe.

Anyway, best of luck.

Rick

Cute 'head shot'. At least you didn't call it a 'portrait' as so many love to do.

Portrait - noun - a painting, drawing, photograph, or engraving of a PERSON, especially one depicting only the face or head and shoulders.

That expression is the same one my dog wears when he wants a treat. And he wears that expression about 18 hours a day.

Out of curiosity, did you confirm that the power output does not change when adjusting and triggering using the flash "pilot/test" button off-camera?

I just bought the Streaklight 360 from Adorama about a week ago. I haven't had too much time to play with it yet. I bought the manual version. They had it with a battery pack and R1 controller/receiver for $299. They also sell it as a standalone product, but it is useless without the required external battery.

They have more expensive models that are Nikon and Canon TTL compatible, but I rarely use TTL for flash.

Even the manual model is HSS capable if you use HSS capable transceivers. I tested it using my yn-622n transceivers. It was able to cleanly sync at 1/4000 (max shutter for my D750).

Although larger than any speedlight I've seen, it's still more portable than my Paul C Buff monolights (since I don't have the Vagabond battery).

It does need a speedlight adapter speedring for softboxes. I already owned two different types. The Bowen's S mount type allows the bare bulb to fit further inside a softbox.

It gives plenty of light with it's 360ws/56m(iso100, 28mm) guide number. I hope to try it out a bit more in the near future. It has already caused more g.a.s. problems. I bought the two to one power cord adapter for the power pack. I have a fresnel spot attachment on the way, and I'm waiting for a long throw reflector to be re-stocked at B&H.

I'm not sure what type of experience your local camera store has had with Yongnuo flash products. I own seven of their speedlights, eight transceivers, and one controller. None are less than one year old. None arrived with defects. None have failed in the 1 to 5 years I've used them.

I have had one battery door break on a transceiver and one battery door break on an older 560III flash. Each failure was due to my applying too much pressure. It cost $3 to $5 each for replacement doors, and the repair for the flash took me about 30 seconds.

I've dropped one or two units. And, the wind has blown over one on a light stand. They all still work. I guess I've just been lucky. But, I really don't worry so much about these units... because they all cost 1/3, or less, than the price of my Nikon brand speedlight.

This is not to say with any certainty that Liam's flash is not defective... All brands experience failures at times. I just would not want to paint this brand as inherently inferior.

Even if you have no light meter you can start here for a simple output test. Turn off the camera, any trigger/receivers, and (with fresh batteries) place the flash in manual mode. Test fire it at 1/128 with the button marked 'Pilot' two or 3 times rapidly. It should recycle very fast and be ready for the next test fire almost immediately.

Now change to 1/1 and repeat. It should take almost a full second or longer to recycle. You may even notice the "pop" is louder and longer. If there is no difference in recycle time your flash is likely defective.

If it appears to be working correctly, make sure it is set correctly for however it is being used.

Make sure you do not exceed your camera's shutter sync speed (unless HSS is enabled on your camera). Sometimes you can assume the flash output is too low, when your scene is really only lit by ambient light because the shutter speed is too fast. Even if your camera has HSS your off camera trigger/receivers may not be set correctly for HSS. It's easier just to stay within normal sync speed while troubleshooting.

Make sure the yn-568 has the correct foot contact pattern to fit your camera's hot shoe (Canon or Nikon)... if it is being used on-camera.

You did not say how you were adjusting and triggering off-camera (optical controls or radio controls(brand/model)).

After looking at your previous posts, I believe you are using a Canon camera. If so, and using the 568 as a optical remote, be sure the flash display shows E-TTL and the correct Channel and Group in the lower left corner of the screen.

If you are using the 622 series radio controller and transceivers, be sure the flash display shows E-TTL with no channel or group indicators in the lower left corner of the screen. Make sure the flash is mounted on the correct model yn-622c transceiver and that the transceiver is in TTL mode, and that the transceiver is set to the correct channel/grp.

Although I don't have a Mitros, I do have several Yongnuo products including the 622 series transceivers and controller.

If your Mitros accepts Nikon iTTL power and zoom adjustment commands in the hotshoe of your Nikon camera, it should work just fine mounted atop a 622n off camera and controlled by the 622n-tx on camera. The yn-622n series is designed to provide power and zoom adjustments (if Zoom is available on the flash) for any Nikon compatible iTTL flash.

In order to be adjusted remotely, all compatible iTTL flash units that are mounted on a yn-622n must stay in iTTL mode at all times, even when being set for remote 'Manual' flash adjustments. There will always be a pre-flash using this system, unless you switch to manual at the individual off-camera flash units (but then you lose the ability for remote adjustment).

And finally, I did find an Amazon review where the reviewer said the 622 series worked flawlessly with his Mitros (for Nikon).

When you finish, it should look like this.

If the panel says "Region" and has sliders it is parametric. If there are no sliders it is basic point curve adjustments. The button that cycles between the two is on the far right of the same line as the words "Point Curve: Linear". Before you go to the "Point" adjustment screen reset all tone sliders to 0.