That’s because it’s your shutter blades.
DO NOT SHOOT WITH IT any more.

A bit off topic, but a story to share.
Have a friend who worked at a camera store a long time ago (film era).
A customer who recently purchased a camera from him came back with a problem.
All of his photos were way, way overexposed, unusable.

My friend examined the camera- seemed to be firing ok.
He opened the back and saw that the shutter curtain was.... missing! (horizontally-moving rubberized cloth shutter).
The customer noticed the plastic protective cover over film plane with dashed lines over the shutter .
He had used the dashed line as a template and very neatly cut the shutter out with an Xacto knife, thinking it needed to be removed to take pictures.

If the shutter blade was hanging up, causing it to close later than it should, it would over-expose that area making it light or white.

LOL!

Just the shutter.
A sluggish mirror would cause a shadow- making it a darker strip, and it too would be at the bottom of the frame.

I've use Rick Riggins at Discount Camera Repair before.
He's very reasonable, but don't expect it to be quick.
Reminds me- I need to see if he can fix another lens I have.

Yep. Great guess.
The trailing shutter blade is hanging up- leaving that area way overexposed, ie: lighter.
Normally they leave a straight image, but something is making the blade go catty-wompus (technical term).
Not a sensor, processor, mirror or card problem.
A shutter issue for certain.

Look at the frame below- the image in the lighter area is blurred with camera motion- caused by the longer exposure from the shutter blade staying open.

mvetrano2- don't use it any more!
You're likely to make it worse.
Send it in for repair, or if you have GAS, now is the time to get that new body you wanted.

(Download)

I may be interested in the Nikon D700.
Depends on price and what's included.
Post some photos and give us a price.

I’ve scanned black & white 35mm negatives on the V700 and get awesome 8x10 inch prints.
Probably would go bigger with no problem.
$395 is a very good price.

Mark it sold in the title.
Nice looking camera for a collector!

Might want to edit the post. I think you meant to say “flashes” and “monolight”
As a classified ad, you can do that on the opening post’s main text.
Look for “edit post” under your ad.
Also, give us a price.
I have two of these, and they’re great units.
I may be interested.
Good luck selling.

[quote=profbowman]Luke, are you not always saving your files in RAW format anymore? The tech expert told me that saving in RAW will always force the highest quality possible, in this case he mean the highest dpi or ppi, whatever you want to call it. But he also said a change in image size or aspect ratio can sometimes change the internally attached dpi value. --Richard[/quote

When I first got my X-E1, I didn’t open the instruction book for a coupe of weeks.
I found the camera so intuitive.
I now have an X-E2 and love it for trips.
The 18-55 “kit lens” is so amazing.
Not cheap plastic like a lot of them.

Pretty good deal!

To get accurate color, you'll need an X-Rite Color Checker Passport and included software to nail all the colors.
White balance is one thing- getting the colors accurate is another.
Nikon, Canon, Fuji, et al render colors differently- heck, even within the same brand and model there are differences. And lenses affect the outcome as well.
The light will need to be even and consistent while you're shooting.
I use matching flashes (Bowens) in softboxes, one on either side of the artwork.
Color Checker Passport link
How to use the Passport

At least you were out shooting