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Posts for: Joe Blow
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Aug 10, 2018 23:44:40   #
JD750 wrote:
What about condensation on the sensor?


If you get condensation on the sensor then you have a serious problem. Condensation forms on surfaces that are exposed to the warmer, humid air. The sensor should be safe if you leave the lens on.

However, a zoom lens that extends has to breathe. That means as the front moves in or out, it expels or sucks in outside air. That can bring in humid air to condense inside the lens. That would be the most dangerous situation. The insides of the lens should be allowed to warm up as well as the outside.
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Aug 10, 2018 23:35:05   #
I could never get a straight picture of my Aunt Eilene.
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Aug 3, 2018 00:11:18   #
Unless there are No Stopping signs posted the you should be able to just pull off. Just get as far off the road as practical and leave your Emergency Lights on. Do not climb any fences either.
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Aug 3, 2018 00:07:03   #
About 25 yrs ago a buddy volunteered to change an alternator on a FIAT Spider. The dealer wanted over $1,000. We ended up having to pull the engine and remove the exhaust manifold, oil pan and pump, and some other crap. The dealer cost was probably on the low side.
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Jul 21, 2018 07:29:35   #
Wonderful shots, thank you for sharing.
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Jul 20, 2018 20:06:34   #
My choice would be an FD 70-210 f4 manual lens for Canon film cameras. Incredibly sharp. One ring to push-pull for zoom and turn for focus. I picked mine up, along with a broken AE-1 at an estate sale for $10 around 1985.
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Jul 18, 2018 22:05:39   #
amfoto1 wrote:
True. But actually it might be more accurate or understandable to think of f-stops as a "ratio"... F = focal length.... So an F-stop is "focal length divided by X". (In fact, many lenses are actually marked with a ratio such as 1:3.5, instead of f/3.5. But when discussing f-stops, we tend to write the latter.)

For example:

A 100mm lens at f/4 will have an opening that's 25mm in diameter (100/4 or 100 ÷ 4). At f/16 the same lens aperture is closed down to give an opening that's 6.25mm in diameter (100/16 or 100 ÷ 16, which will allow less light to pass through).

On a 200mm lens f/4 would make for a 50mm aperture, while f/16 would provide one that's 12.5mm in diameter.

On a 50mm lens f/4 is 12.5mm and f/16 is 3.125mm.

When you think of it as illustrated in the examples above, it might make more sense why the higher the number, the smaller the aperture opening.

F-stops regulate the amount of light that can pass through a lens. Each "full" f-stop smaller reduces the amount of light being allowed to pass through by one half. Full stops are f1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32, etc. (Note that every other smaller f-stop the divisor "doubles".... 1, 2, 4, 8, etc. and 1.4, 2.8, 5.6, 11, etc. This can help when trying to remember the sequence of stops.)

F-stops ALSO control depth of field (which is also effected by focal length & distances). Basically, a larger aperture makes for shallower depth of field (the "plane of apparent sharp focus"), while a smaller aperture increases DoF.

Hope this makes sense... it only took me about 10 years to finally "get it"!
True. But actually it might be more accurate or un... (show quote)


Not to overly quibble, however, ...

Full stops are 1 : 2 : 4 : 8 : 16 : 32. The half stops are 1.4 : 2.8 : 5.6 : 11 : 22. (With each being a fraction) The slope is exponential because it relies upon the area of the aperture, not the diameter. One half of 1 is 1.4, not as often thought, 2.0.

Mechanical cameras were picky when choosing an aperture and only went by full and half stops. Modern digital cameras can choose intervening f-stops.

You probably know this but I wanted to get the "full vs half" right.
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Jul 18, 2018 21:33:25   #
TriX wrote:
Are you sure the card is wiped, and if so, how? If you haven’t already formatted the card, I’d download a copy of Recuva and give it a try. There’s a difference between wiping out the file allocation pointers and actually erasing all the data by writing zeros to every location (which is unlikely).






To add,, if you isolate the virus on your computer, you can also scan any cards and thumb drives too.

I fully agree that Recuva will recover any files that are still there. They may be out of order, but you can recover them unless they were written over.

NOTE: The major cause of SD card failure is removing them from the camera and putting them in a computer or card reader. That causes wear on the contacts and may result in failure. It is safer to use a USB cable to d/l the files. The bonus is most cameras won't allow an outside source to write to the card, which would prevent your current problem.

I don't want to suggest never pull the card from your camera. Just keep in mind that it is safer to use the USB port whenever possible.
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Jul 18, 2018 15:08:33   #
AndyH wrote:
Scotchguard is good stuff. I use it on lots of fabric products. But you're not going to get my Billingham into a washing machine without prying it from my cold, dead hands.... LOL

Andy


Maybe I should add that this bag is all canvas with nylon inserts. I would not recommend leather being washed in a machine.
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Jul 18, 2018 14:54:13   #
scuff wrote:
Went to the beach for sunset pictures. I took my camera out of the bag and as I was moving to close up the bag, my daughter flung her sandles and got sand all inside it. After vacuuming it out well, would you trust it? Or just get a new one? I'm a little nervous about using it again.


It's happened to me on more than one occasion. I never over worry about it.

I just vaccuum out the bag, using the narrow tool to get into the corners. When it is dirty I toss it in the washing machine and hang dry. After thoroughly drying it, I treat it with Scotchguard to waterproof it, spraying inside and out. The zippers are brass so I don't worry about corrosion.

I bought this bag in 1986. I'll estimate this has been machined washed 10 or 12 times. My M-I-L has repaired a seam for me, the name tag fell off years ago and the zipper handles have broken. I put some key rings through the zipper handles and they work fine. The plastic clasps still work great. The foam inserts and velcro are great.
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Jul 18, 2018 14:44:56   #
AndyH wrote:
Good advice. However if the canvas is waterproof, or even water resistant, this treatment will likely destroy the waterproofing.


Scotchguard will help waterproof and treat it.
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Jul 18, 2018 14:42:33   #
Kiron Kid wrote:
Clean and vacuum out the bag. Put the daughter up for adoption. :-)


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Jul 18, 2018 14:21:15   #
mrchunko wrote:
I purchased a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens for some portraiture I have coming up soon. How best do I get full benefit from this lens? I’ve watched some tutorials on YouTube and according to these experts and go-to folks, the results that can be obtained are stunning. I’m doing a run through with a friend to make sure I’m fairly proficient with this lens before actually doing the scheduled shoot. Anyone have suggestions/cautions, that might be helpful? Appreciate all your assistance!


A Canon 50mm 1.8 can take decent portraits and head shots.

First, you don't need to shoot wide open at f1.8. F4 or even F5.6 can give a comfortable DOF. Keep your subject in focus. While you want the background out of focus, that can also be achieved by moving away from the background.

Play with different angles, as well as different poses. Most important is to use side lighting. That creates shadows which makes the subject more three dimensional. Having someone hold a large white card, or even a sheet, can reflect enough light to help. Using only a front light will flatten your subject. Using both can give nice effects. Again, try different angles.

For most portraits you will want to shoot at eye level. Shooting down diminishes your subject. Shooting below attaches a superior attitude. Usually just taking a knee is low enough. This makes a big difference with children.

Hands and arms are very important. Just hanging down ruins a photo. Have the subject put their hands in their pockets, fold their arms, hands on hips, and even folded on the lap. Just don't dangle loosely.
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Jul 18, 2018 14:03:59   #
lloydl2 wrote:
probably not the best choice for head shots.. Can work for full length, 3/4 length and environmental type portraits or groups.. Getting close enough for a headshot will cause perspective distortion even with the crop sensor which will still capture the same image but a cropped view of it. Too close will make features like nose, forehead, ears, larger and sticking out more. head will be too large for upper shoulders/body. Longer lenses tend to compress features making for a more pleasing portrait (especially head shots)….
probably not the best choice for head shots.. Can ... (show quote)


If there is any distortion on a prime lens, then send it back.

The Canon 50m 1.8 is a good lens with no noticeable distortion.
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Jul 18, 2018 13:35:48   #
That was me before I met my wife.

Aahhh, the memories.
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