Posts: chrisg-optical | Ugly Hedgehog

Hope Spring's Eternal!

Back to the Future - manual focusing on mirrorless

CHG_CANON wrote:

Honestly, if you need a center-frame split prism t... (show quote)

Honestly I don't need the split/micro prism to manually focus but I think camera makers have not optimized manual focusing on modern mirrorless cameras - focus peaking and spot zooming leave much to be desired. I was just suggesting as an additional option to other manual focusing aids the old familiar and simple split/micro prism aid which was simple and quick on film cameras (would be most appropriate on retro cameras like the Zf) ...on modern cameras can be enabled/disabled, and even re-positioned and resized which was not possible with real glass. Also modern cameras have too much info in the EVFs...less is more. Thanks for the tips.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Back to the Future - manual focusing on mirrorless

billnikon wrote:

I have not missed them since I switched to auto focus camera's more than 30 years ago.

I remember it well as I grew up in that transition phase from manual to auto focus. I even remember some saying at the time you weren't a "pro" or serious photographer unless you shot manual focus with manual exposure. Then gradually AE and AF cameras became accepted into the pro arenas with Minolta Maxxum and Canon EOS cameras. God forbid if you used the Program mode, however. How did we manage with manual focus back then before AF cameras and lenses became available? We survived somehow with fast fingers and quick thinking - and we took great pictures and even many action shots with manual focus by anticipating where the action would be - at home plate, at the finish line, in the end zone, at the front door of a building, or at the goalie's net for example. We used higher f numbers to make up for any fudge factor.

Now today we are so spoiled we expect our cameras AF system to almost read our minds! Using manual focus almost seems so Fred Flintstone these days, but for certain genres (macro for example) manual focus is an advantage. Somehow AF does take some of the fun away too, but on the other hand, it also opens up a whole bunch of other decision making factors - which AF mode do I use, how many focus points do I need, continuous or single, face/eye/animal/bird detection, etc. Interesting times.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Back to the Future - manual focusing on mirrorless

BebuLamar wrote:

I hate that microprism ans split image focusing aid. When I bought my Nikon F2AS back in 1977 the first accessory I bought was the type D focusing screen with all ground glass.

I know what you mean - when I was actively using the OM film cameras I had a half dozen screens, including one with a fine ground glass and one with a clear field, but micro prism only no split - the last one I had to use with my macro setup which included the auto bellows and a 20mm macro lens. One problem with the micro prism (ground matte glass version) is that it could not be used with lenses greater than f 5.6 or 8 minimum aperture, or for extreme macro with the bellows where the light levels would be dim - I used to hate that so I got a set of screens back then. The clear field screen was very bright, even with long macro extension.

Well what I am proposing would be optional of course - can be turned on/off as with any mirrorless function. Also for those that do like it I was thinking that unlike it's analog counterpart, a digital micro split prism could be moved around the EVF, and/or changed in size - that would be cool - something not possible with an glass screen. You would think with retro cameras such as the Zf, Zfc and Fuji X series they would also make their finders look retro too...but of course that also means their software development team would have to put a couple hundred extra hours I'm sure.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Back to the Future - manual focusing on mirrorless

I was playing around with a couple of my older OM film cameras the other day and noted how much I liked focusing with the micro prism/split prism viewfinder focusing aid. I was thinking why modern day camera makers have not made a digital simulation of that focusing aid in our EVFs on current day mirrorless cameras. Do you think something like that would be welcome, or do you know of any that implement this feature? Yes, I like focus peaking too but sometimes it's a pain.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Old CDs

CHG_CANON wrote:

Hopefully, the entire UHH Community who gleefully creates physical media will finally once and for all realize they're wasting their time and risking their memories. We've been here for a decade talking about this risk: consumer-grade physical media will not last, not your CDs, not your DVDs. If your only copy is physical media, and these memories are important, get them copied back onto actively used and actively backed-up and actively maintained equipment, hard-disk and / or cloud.

Two other options - MDISC (a bit more expensive than regular DVD/BD media-100 year lifespan-you also need a drive capable of recording M discs) and LTO tape (up to 30 years -very expensive generally for medium to large enterprises). These media are good for longer term storage that is not regularly accessed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC

The intermediate solution is a local NAS storage device with RAID5 stripping, backed up with cloud storage. I got a Buffalo unit from Egghead last year for about $650 and came with 16 TB native, 11 TB with RAID5 overhead. Works well and is well made (in Japan!). Paired with the cloud it works well for off site redundancy against theft and fire.

Least budget option is multiple hard drives stored securely but keep in mind spinning hard drives and SSD media have shorter term data integrity, so get an M disc drive if you can for the "precious" files. Also how any media is stored is just as important for its longevity....think media safes....it must be rated for computer media.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Nikon repair

bobforman wrote:

My D7200 and I were caught in a rainstorm yesterday and now it refuses to turn on. Battery's good and I get a quick flash on the led screen when turned on and then nothing. I love the camera but am unsure of the economic utility of sending it to Nikon for a looksee. Having never sent a camera in for repair I have no idea what Nikon charges to gain an estimate. Soliciting thoughts as to how I should proceed.

Bob

It may be a little to late for this but for future reference...first aid when a camera gets waterlogged (fresh water) :1. Turn it off or don't turn it on. 2. Remove the battery. 3. Dry off the exterior parts, lens (fully extend barrel).. 4. Inspect interior parts to see if water got inside - just don't touch mirror or shutter blades. 5. Remove lens, place mount side down on dry paper towel....6. Fill a larger Sterilite container halfway with dry rice, uncooked. Place a new dry paper towel on rice and then camera mount side down...cover the container and leave it like that for a few days. 7. Install battery to check how it all works, but still get it serviced for a CLA repair even if all is fine.

Everything depends on how the camera got wet - rain, splashing or outright dunking in a pool, or body of water. It usually takes a dunking to get water inside the camera. Saltwater/chlorine vs fresh water - salt and chlorine water will quickly corrode metal parts/contacts and usually spells the end for that camera...unless if it's IMMEDIATELY serviced in a strip down repair, where it MAY be saved.

(Main Photography Discussion)

70-200mm lenses

Golfstitch wrote:

I am currently deciding on a 70-200mm lens to use with my new Nikon D850. I’ve watched many YouTube reviews on the Tamron f 2.8 G2 and the Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS (HSM) Sport. My budget is more in the price range of these two lenses. I’m not opposed to used lenses that are rated like new or excellent. In that case any suggestions for reputable companies to buy from would be appreciated. I would like to know what opinions members of this group have. Thanks in advance.

I got a used 70-200 2.8 AF-S VR of 2003 vintage, on KEH in EX+ condition for about $850. I use it on my Z6ii/Z7ii with great results, but it is a heavy lens with IF/zooming so the length is constant too. It was one of the last NIKKOR lenses to be made in Japan (with a brass plate on the barrel). This is the exact lens - https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product-archive/camera-lenses/af-s-vr-zoom-nikkor-70-200mm-f%252f2.8g-if-ed.html

(Main Photography Discussion)

Will Nikon do this, or am I waiting for something that will not happen?

Fredstersphotos wrote:

Nikon does make a camera with a cropped sensor it is the ZFC not the ZF since I picked up the ZF I have not touched my Z8 Z9 none of them.

The Zf has been getting rave reviews by youtube photography channels. It is a portent of what's to come for the Z6iii soon, in the modern skin of the Z cameras.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Will Nikon do this, or am I waiting for something that will not happen?

DavidPine wrote:

The Z50 is as good as the D500 or you can put your Z8 in DX mode and achieve the same effect.

The Z50 packs a lot as it is for the price, but can be easily enhanced by Nikon to make it really competitive - IBIS, 24mp, BSI/stacked sensor, global shutter (?), dual Expeed -7 or maybe -8 processors, advanced AF modes, 20-30 fps full RAW, pro-capture mode, and maybe more. The rumored Z90 or Z50ii is supposed to be something of this sort. If this Z90 becomes real it will be a wildlife/birding/sporting beast in the likes of the D500, and then I would consider the Z ecosystem "complete" and "well rounded." We'll see! Happy New Year!

(Main Photography Discussion)

How much noise can we tolerate?

User ID wrote:

Around here, daylight can be low light and interior lighing can be plentiful. Seems like actual illumination level is more important than whether theres a roof over your head.

Right, but simulating daylight requires bright artificial lights. Even if it's cold outside you can quickly take a series of shots of a scene while the sun is out....no setup required. Are you in northern Alaska?

(Main Photography Discussion)

How much noise can we tolerate?

selmslie wrote:

I did a quick test with my A7 II (converted to mon... (show quote)

Try the same test in daylight. Shooting high ISO in daylight (for higher speed e.g.) will usually produce quite acceptable noise levels (without additional NR), compared to indoor artificial light, due to higher signal level.

(Main Photography Discussion)

Will Nikon do this, or am I waiting for something that will not happen?

Bridges wrote:

I currently am using a z8 and z6ii but am hanging on to the D500. I would like to go all in for mirrorless but Nikon so far hasn't built a replacement for the D500. I like using the 500 with a longer lens since it turns the 200-500 into a 300-750. The z crop sensor cameras are not a replacement in my opinion but more of an entry-level camera. Does anyone think a more professional/enthusiast crop sensor body is likely?

Same here but I am not holding my breath anymore...my fingernails were starting to turn blue. It seems that a Z500 or whatever it may be called is not on the immediate horizon, as Nikon concentrated on the FF market. There is speculation on a Z50ii but not sure if it will have specs similar to or surpassing that of the great D500. As some will point out sure you can place a Z8 into crop mode for about 19 mp but it's not quite the same as a full sensor readout of a native DX camera. I think eventually late in 2024 or 2025 they MAY release a native crop version of the Z8 perhaps - perhaps also it may have a global shutter, BSI/stacked sensor, IBIS, and maybe 26-33 MP. The specs and performance of a Z500 camera should exceed that of the D500, to keep up with the trends. Price point around when the D500 was introduced would be sweet too.

(Main Photography Discussion)

GAS attack or a good upgrade?

Overthehill1 wrote:

Wondering if the Nikon 16-80mm 2.8-4E would be a good replacement for the older 24mm 2.8 and 35-70mm 2.8 AF Nikkors I've been using for years. My primary camera is a D500. I'm assuming the 4 means it has a variable aperture. Thanks in advance.

Hmmm...probably best to stick to your 2.8s - as they say everything is great at 2 point 8!

It really depends on your shooting locations, indoor/outdoor/low light, subjects, and whether you plan to migrate to mirrorless. AF Nikkors will not autofocus with the FTZ adapters, for example. If you plan on keeping the D500 indefinitely, then stick with the lenses you now have. It is nice to have a prime lens in the kit. OTOH, the 16-80 is a great all around "walk around lens". It will go down to f/4 at 80mm, but if you're shooting daylight would not matter too much. The AF-S lens will probably AF focus much faster than the AF lenses. The 16-80 will autofocus with the Z cameras, if that is in your plans. If you're shooting static subjects, AF is not that much needed anyway. Hope that helps you consider all the factors in your decision. If it were me, and just speaking for myself, I would keep the older lenses and get the 16-80 just to add to the repertoire in the kit bag...yes a bit gassy on my part!

(Main Photography Discussion)

Some Photoshop Alternatives - For Free!

jerryc41 wrote:

From YouTube - free alternatives to PS.

Photopea - best - ads
GIMP
Keira
Paint.net
PhotoScapeX

If you want to spend a bit of money - just once -
PS Express
Pixel Express
Affinity. $165
Oscillator Pro $50

GIMP has been my favorite go-to app since v1.0 for quick graphic edits, crops, re-sizes, etc. For photographic images, I prefer Ps with it's close sibling Lr. For $14.95/mo you get both plus 1 TB cloud storage.

I'm all for the free apps - Inkscape, LibreOffice, Blender, Total Commander, Notepad++ are my other favorites. The "pay once" software is kind of a trap. If you don't expect to ever update the software, it's fine. But if you need or want software updates every year or so you will have to either pay for the new version, or an "upgrade" version. With these annual or semi-annual costs, it averages out to a monthly subscription anyway. I also use CoffeeCup software for web design - great software for a "one time" cost - and they usually give you a few updates from purchase date. Every year or so CoffeeCup updates their software with new enhanced versions, bug fixes, etc., which sometimes requires a full purchase license. If you're a web designer, I think MobiRise is even better - it's free to start, but for only $99 annually, you get oodles of templates to work with. It's also very simple to use.

Sooner or later, you will have to update the software anyway, as OS updates and new versions are released, or computer hardware is updated. I do know people who are still using CS6 and still happy with it. It really depends on your use cases and budget.