Thanks Linda. One reason for my delayed reply is that I have been trying to read directions for sending images. I did not see where the limit is given.
Actually, I was shooting with both the m10ii and the m1ii. Sorry for the confusion. The Olympus nomenclature is awkward at best.
Thanks for your rapid reply. I am having trouble sending images. This is the first time I have tried to do this. The UHH program doesn't seem to want me to send more than one image at a time. No clue why, but I cannot select more than one. They would be raw anyway. I deleted most of my jpeg originals in LRCC after having made the edits I wanted. Trying to save space on hard drive.
Hi, All,
I have a question that I hope I don't already know the answer to.
The problem is isolating the foreground and creating a blurred background for sports (soccer, volleyball, football, etc.) with a MFT camera, Olympus OM D M10ii, to be precise. I have ordered a Zuiko Pro f/2.8 40-150 lens, but am not able to get the separation I want. This lens has marvelous IQ, but is ungainly for a walk around lens. It is well within the time period in which I can send it back. I can and am considering the Zuiko Pro f/4 12-100 lens, which also has great IQ, according to the tests done by Imaging-Resource.
I can always use Photoshop to blur the background, but it takes about 15-20 minutes per image to make it look good. This requires carefully selecting the subject, inverting and blurring the background. It works, but takes more time than I care to spend, except for an exceptional catch.
So...Finally to the question. Can the MFT sensor isolate the subject in some way that I do not yet know? Or do the physics involved make this possible only for a full frame sensor and an f/2.8 lens? Am I seeking the impossible?
Because I take lots of types of pictures and because I am pretty heavily invested in MFT, I don't want to spring for a full frame and a mammoth lens which I would only use for sport.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks
I have a Lumix zs50, a pocket camera with a 1/2.3 sensor like yours. I chose this camera because unlike yours it is only 12 magapixels, so the pixels should be a bit bigger than yours and gather more light. Still, mine is not very good in bad light. I do not like to push it beyond 400 ISO. ButI have come up with a couple of ways to improve results.
The first is simplest. Use the in-camera HDR function. This will take--at least in my camera--three images with varying exposures and average them. Since noise is random, not all of the noise will appear in the finished picture. The result will be JPEG, on my camera at least.
The second is more complex, but once you have things set up, it is easy. I can use burst mode to take six pictures of the same thing. In Lightroom, either from FILE or DEVELOP, I choose edit in... At the bottom of the page that opens, click on OPEN AS LAYERS IN PHOTOSHOP. It takes a moment or two for all the images to open as layers. Select all layers. Then align the layers. Then convert to smart object. Then set stack mode to MEDIAN. The resulting image should have far less noise than any of the individual pictures. This might seem complex, but if you create an ACTION in Photoshop to do this, it becomes real easy.
Try these before getting rid of your otherwise fine pocket camera.
Hi, Hoggers.
I am contemplating the purchase of a Sony A7.
I have a lot of lenses for my Sony a6000.
I also have quite a few for my Olympus OM D M 10 II.
Can I use my e-mount Sony lenses on the A7? If so, how well will they work? That is, will the image from the lens cover the ff sensor, or will I get a cropped effect?
Almost the same question for the oly lenses. What are some good adaptors, and again, what will be the impact of a mft lens on the sensor.
I guess in both these questions, I am wondering if I will lose pixels, and how many.
Thanking you in advance, I look forward to your help.
Thanks, but seems like too much of a load. I would prefer to keep it simple.
Thanks. This is why zoom lenses are so useful.
Hi, all,
I need advice on which lens for a safari in Kenya. I have a Lumix FZ1000, which has a 400mm equivalent zoom. I also have an Olympus OM-D E-M10 II with (among others) a 14-150 zoom and a 75-300. With the 2x crop factor, this equals, respectively, a reach of 300 and 600 mm.
the Oly reaches farther and the body itself is a good bit smaller. It also has a larger sensor (mft vs one inch).But the disadvantage is changing lenses in what may well be dusty conditions. And the lenses are not bright at the extreme end of their range (f/ 5.6 and 6.7)
The Lumix has a built in zoom (hence no changing of lenses) and retains an f/4 throughout its range (25-400 mm equivalent).
The question is: will 400 mm be sufficient to photograph the wildlife I might see? Don't quite know what to expect. Big mammals, of course. But birds, and others?
I would appreciate any advice any UHHers, especially those who have taken a safari, can give.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the input, but I never use bridge. I did not send from a collection. Any other suggestions? Are there any settings in PS or LR that might have gone awry?
I frequently send images from Lightroom to Photoshop. Normally when I save from Photoshop, the images return to Lightroom. Recently they do not return.
1. Is there any explanation for this?
2. How can I make Photoshop send altered images back to Lightroom.
I would much appreciate any help that Hogs in the know might offer. Thanks in advance