Full Frame means you get more of the scene and a crop sensor crops off 1.6% of the scene. this is very important when you are shooting in tight spaces and need to get all of the scene.

Hi again. I am looking at the Canon 6D body for around $1K not sure what lens. Looks like around $2k for the body and lens.

thank you for your response. If I decide to go for a FF what would you suggest?

To all of those pros out there that shoot real estate, I need some advice. Long time photographer and have just started shooting real estate. My question is; what lens is best for interiors that would be wide yet have little to no lens distortion or barreling?
I have a Canon ( cropped) 7D and canon EFS 15~85mm. Which is wide but with barreling. I also have EFS 17~55mm, wide enough but will no barreling . ( actually I straighten out the edge distortion in LR).
I am contemplating buying a "full frame" and a new wide angle lens. Since this is a business I have a fairly good budget to work with. Or keeping my 7D and buying a better lens .
What do you think is best for me; buy a new camera & lens or up grade the lens and keep the Canon 7D?

Hi I just hopped over to the alien bees mono light, which I use, and this is the source; Flashtube
14mm flashtube (daylight-balanced and UV-coated) seems to me that I've only added more uv protection with the uv sheets. The bottom line is that I still get hot spots on the glow shirts and have not found a way to eliminate them...

Right on point Gene. the photos are reduced to thumbnails and quality is reduced. My objective when shooting a home is to show the rooms as spacious. I will look into pano. any suggestions about technique to get the best pano will be much appreciated. It has been my experience dealing with RE agents that they are notoriously cheap. They make their 3~5% on each sale but wont spend $100 to get good pictures so they can get more showings.

Hi Bob. As a full time real estate photographer, I use 15mm since I need as wide as possible for small bathrooms and other rooms, to make them as spacious as possible. Using less wide angle crops out the full room.

Hi here is a simple way to learn exposure in a practical hands on way. Set your camera on a tripod, then set your camera to Aperture Priority using an aperture of F8. Look at the numbers on your camera to see that the Aperture has not changed from F8 as you circle around the room, but note how the numbers on the left ( shutter speed) do change. The numbers will tell you how the shutter changes with different lighting while keeping the Aperture ( lens opening) the same. Get a good feel for how shutter speed works with dark or lighter ambient light. Next go on line to YouTube and learn what a histogram is and how it works in your camera. Once you have a general understanding of what info the histogram is giving you, you can now see how shutter effects the histogram. Eventually you will use the histogram as your go to guide. In a short time you will shoot in Manual. I must also say that shooting in Manual is not always the best mode to shoot in. In a studio setting where the lighting is fixed, Manual is ideal. Shooting outdoors where the lighting is variable perhaps Aperture Priority might be best. You can do the same test using Shutter Priority for shooting movement. I do studio shoots as well as on location. For example when shooting real estate I use, exclusively , Aperture priority since I don't use any flash or lighting just ambient light. Shooting this way takes all of the guess work out, all I do is set the aperture for the maximum depth of field which is around F8~16mm and the camera sets the proper shutter for me. ( since I do HDR I bracket my shots -3 +3 exposure steps) but this type of shoot is for another day) Lee

The explanations from others here are generally correct, but the main thing you must understand is that the histogram is the correct exposure for lightness and darkness, ( the width shows light from 0~100),*not the monitor, or what you perceive to be correct lighting. What is important is that the monitor needs to be "COLOR CORRECTED". Your histogram will show you the correct "lightness and darkness" exposures. You look to your calibrated monitor for correcting color to your taste, not brightness = ( exposure and highlights), mid-tones = (shadows), .blacks = ( here you can adjust for details in the black and dark areas). I strongly recommend that you work in Adobe Light Room. Note also there is no such thing as a perfect historgram SHAPE. Turn on your histogram's highlight clipping and shadow clipping indicators. This will be your correct luminous settings no matter if you monitor is too bright or too dark. Adjust your monitors brightness to what your histogram is telling you.

Hi seem like you lost sharpness.

Interesting question. From my point of view, I know that subject sharpness is most important as is composition. Composition is what frames the subject, so its important that the subject is the focal point of the picture.
For everyone else the only thing that matters is the subject, no matter what the composition is or if its not sharp, dark, or not color corrected.
We as photographers are more concerned with technical things, where others only see the subject.
As a working full time photographer in my own photography business, I have to be concerned with detail since I'm getting paid.

Hi Burk. thank you for the correction. the only thing I don't know from paragon is the file size limit. I did not select the box to limit to 100K, so as a result the file sizes range from 150k~350K should I check the limit to 100k box ?

I do studio shoots for youth sports clubs where on occasion a team will be wearing "glow" shirts, which have a neon glow. I use mono lights and I use UV sheets attached to the umbrellas. I understand that the glow shirts have a chemical in them that glow when in contact to UV light. The UV filters work to some small degree, but I still get the blown out hot spots no matter what the light outputs are or the aperture settings! I have tried moving the lights further away from the subjects also. Any photographers have any suggestions.

Hi Burk thank you for your response. I am using a 4:3 aspect ratio for image dimentions, a resolution of 72ppi, quality @ 100%, and the image size varies from 100K ~ 330K. What image size do you recommend that I use if I click on the "limit size to:"box?

HI Gene. I figured out the aspect ration which is 4:3. I am using 72 as my resolution. I do not know what the maximum file size should be Gene. I don't want to make it so small that it affects the quality of the image.. can you advise? When I export using 4:3 ratio the file size varies from 100k ~220k I want to assure that the image quality stays good. I read that Paragon wants image sizes less than 100K. If I click the "maximum file size box to limit 100k, will that give me poor quality?