Here's another vote for Airmap for ease of use. It's a lot easier than when we had to call ATC for "notification" but the person on the other end, thought it was "permission" and it became a "thing" where I had to call supervisors etc.

Honestly, I think the only thing that seemed (off) was the clarity of the people. I'm thinking maybe adding some fog? The atmosphere seems dark and "polluted" (can't think of another term for it) and they look tack sharp.

I like the image, I just thought that one thing kind of stood out, so take it for what it's worth.

Nice job.

As ArtBob says, check your color space. I noticed mine changed between LR and PS, so when I exported something that I worked on, the colors became ridiculous, like any changes are super red, but the parts I didn't touch were washed out.

Once I thought to look at the color space, and made everything sRGB, everything was back to normal. Of course, I wasted a bunch of time before figuring it out.

I have a "gaming" laptop and desktop. Both have 2, 1tb SSD drives, one for programs and OS, the other for storage of files I'm using.

Here's something that I found helpful, the graphics card does help to an extent, but often times for photoshop, it runs better if you disable it. I do some video, so I do have a beefed up graphics card, but the thing that helped me most was having 32 gb of DDR4 RAM. Between the awesome amount of ram, and using SSD hard drives, the computers are both screaming fast at boot up, launching Photoshop, which used to take me forever, boots up almost immediately, and doing things like using the smudge tool don't bring everything to a screeching halt.

Kenbar, read the original post. Where does it say that he/she is using an older manual lens?

Bingo! That's what I was going to say. Your camera is doing exactly what it was designed to do. Slow down your shutter speed, or up your ISO, and your image will get brighter if you want to keep it at F11

The only things on my photo computers are photos, no other files, those are on my "other" computer. So I use LR to copy or move files to another drive, and ignore duplicates.

What really is awful is uploading my back ups to the cloud (also, not backing up the system, just the photos) The only internet available in my area is satellite (extremely expensive) or my air card, extremely slow.

I'm not a "brand" guy, but I can tell you from experience in the past few years of shooting in sub zero temps that I've been able to continue shooting with my Nikon equipment, when Canon's froze up.
The big limiting factor for me was that my lenses froze, and wouldn't autofocus, even though I had them wrapped up with hand warmers and hand towels.

It was still better than the other cameras with their shutters frozen. Now, maybe my hand warmer thing kept the body warm enough to stop from freezing.

Shutter speed, or possibly ISO, but not Aperture. The first 2 will change exposure without affecting the depth of field. Depending on the light conditions and your particular camera, ISO could be problematic with noise, but I believe that if you are combining images, a lot of the noise would disappear, or would at least be easily removed.

The Shutter Speed would still be the first choice, but experimenting often results in fun and unexpected results. Just like Photoshop, there are several ways in photography to get what you want.

I've used a ton of different straps over the years, and I agree with the OpTech strap suggestions.

The really nice thing is that if you carry different bodies, you can easily switch between cameras without having a strap on each camera. You just buy the clips for each camera.

They also have a really nice dual sling strap system, that really does a great job of spreading the weight out across your shoulders instead of on your neck.

Ever see makeup commercials? Like I said, I don't normally process that way, but sometimes the mood of the photo fits it well.

Not the same genre, but look at https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-615655-1.html

He did mention about the eyes not being what he wanted.

The way I do it (when I feel it's warranted) is to basically make a copy in lightroom. Take one copy and drop down the clarity to a pleasing level, then I open them both in photoshop, put the soft one on the top layer, use a mask and bring back the eyes, mouth, and anything else that "should be sharp"

Not sure I understand the second question, but on your third question, I believe the issue is that all you need to do is change the first 3 letters from DSC to whatever you want (DVP in your case) Don't add any numbers, because the camera will automatically start at DVP_0001

I think that's what you are saying. I have my D-200 set to D2C D-7000 is D7M D7100 is D71, and my D-500 is D5C, that way I know what camera I was using at the time.

I like this photo. It does lend itself to the soft focus look. In all, I generally don't care for the look, but sometimes, it just works. I do like this image.
Care to expand your method for giving the soft look? I know the things I've tried, and what works for me, but I'm interested in how you achieved your look.

The only real critique, as you mentioned is that upon download, and zooming in, it is much more blurry than it looks in the "thumbnail," but the thumbnail looks pretty sharp, except the lips seem sharper than the eyes.

All in all, I think it is pleasing.

Hi, I love the composite. I've done a few of flower girls myself. Something magical about the little girls dressed like princesses of sorts.

Did you make the background yourself, or did you purchase a digital background. That's one area that usually frustrates me, but yours is gorgeous.

Very good question.
I still bring my tropod, but it generally is only used as a place to set my camera than as an actual tripod. I do use it for portraits or other things, but not often at the weddings.

My main reason is that 10 years ago and before, I was using a D-70 or D-200, or film. Those early digital cameras took great photos, but anything above ISO 200 was getting to the point of unusable. Film got grainy if you needed super high ISO, and you couldn't change ISO between locations, and I am too cheap to keep changing rolls of film based on location, so that's why tripods with lower shutter speeds were mandatory. I rarely used film faster than ISO 400, maybe 800. To me, 1000 looked like a photo made of sand.

With the newer bodies today, and it doesn't even have to be a D850, my daughter sometimes shoots with me, and her D-3200 is very capable of shooting usabie photos at as high as 1600. I was shooting over 3200 a few weeks ago on my D500 in a fairly dark barn, when my flash batteries were low, and I couldn't stop to change them, and those photos were perfectly fine. Would I blow them up to 30x40? Maybe not, but at normal viewing distance, they'd probably be OK too. Normally, any more, my wedding photos end up in an album, so are rarely larger than 10x10, or the occasional (but it has to be stellar) a 2 page spread of 10x20.
So yeah, I still have it with me, if anything, as a security blanket. It's also handy if you want to grab a little video to work in with the slideshow.

I have the conversation every so often about the program modes (A P, and S) I'm not a manual snob, but I just find it easier. When I fuss with "modes" more often than not, I'm still messing with dialing in the exposure compensation, so I'm not sure how that's any easier, than quickly spinning the front dial to change aperture, or rear dial to change SS? One dial or the other, vs. looking at the top of the camera to switch between modes, then to find the exposure compensation dial, and start moving that up or down based on if there are a lot of light clothing, or dark clothing, with bright backgrounds, etc? To me, that's more confusing, but if it works for everyone else in the world, it's no skin off my nose. I just do what I find quick and easy, so I can change my settings without ever moving the camera from my eye. I can meter off the skin, or part of the scene that I want to meter off, and spin either dial depending on what I want, until I get what I want.

I tried to access your page, but a lot of pages are blocked here at work. I do think you shared that link before, and I saw it from home, and thought you do some fine work, so how you work is doing well for you, and that is all that's important.

Thanks for posting.