sgbrown wrote:
I like the way you have the plant in the bottom corner, it gives it even more depth. Very nice!
It sure does! This is a really fine composition with elements that capture one's attention and draws the viewer in to linger awhile
and savor the scene.
Terrific shot Larry and thanks for sharing all of the in depth info about the shoot. It takes a lot of time and effort to compose and write something like that.
nikonshooter wrote:
mborn wrote:
Look at lightroom LR 3 is great trying out LR4 beta Awesome , easy learning curve
I am going to agree with Mborn - LR offers both the file organization that everyone needs combined with post processing capabilities that improve with every release. There are fewer and fewer cases that need to be roundtripped into Photoshop.
I might add that Lightroom also has a "Publish Feature" in the Library module that will upload images to Flikr, SmugMug, or Facebook already to go or you can pick any other service you like and it will track the images for you. Pretty slick. By the way, it has a slide show editor too!
PNagy wrote:
I am not criticizing any of your pictures, but the last one of the skyline is terrific.
Thank you for the compliment. It is one of my favorites and it is included in one of my portfolios and I also intend to make an enlargement of it and have it framed.
I do a lot of photo walks for a whole afternoon several days a week when the weather is good (what more photogenic city is there? not to be snobbish).
This is one of my "grab" shots, just noticed the birds descending and shot it.
Same story with the others --- top one --- I was shooting the Blue Angels from a pier at Fort Mason during this years fleet week and happened to see this young seagull out of the corner
of my eye and "grabbed" a shot of it.
The ones of the gulls feeding in the middle of the street is another such "grab shot" I was walking along Jefferson St. in
Fisherman's Wharf and these started to feed just after some cars went through.
Mr Pass Port wrote:
Here is a pic I took on saturday with canon 50mm 1.4 lens Im finding on camera the colors are great however on laptop the color suck. Please any advice??
Super image on my calibrated 27" Imac. Others responses about lap tops are right on the money.
The only photo related tasks I use our Mac Book Pro for is to back up images from memory cards on trips and key word in Lightroom if I have the time and inclination.
I have an external firewire enabled drive that I back up to as well as keeping copies on the Mac Book's hard drive and only then do I put the memory card back in the camera and format it.
As the saying goes "Better safe than sorry."
joe-fl-mt wrote:
I have been told that object extending to the corner of a picture, such as the wagon tongue in this picture from Bodie, are a "no-no". Any comments?
I think that you have a very nice image --- the depth of field is
good by having the buildings in the far section of the background in focus. Over all it is sharp, has good tonality and contrast, and the colors are very good --- it doesn't have an over processed
look.
So I think you have a composition to be proud of.
BuckeyeTom73 wrote:
I go down the middle - Epson Premium Luster or Ilford Galerie Smooth Pearl. Has very good blacks without Matte Black ink and great color depth. Only a bit of shine/glare to deal with.
I'll add my vote for the Premium Luster --- I use it a lot in
8.5 x 11 for making portfolios. It works well with both of my printers --- one uses dye ink and the other pigment ink.
Paul14850 wrote:
Noob question time, sorry if this has been addressed before. I recall reading somewhere that when taking long exposures (night primarily) that Image Stabilization/Vibration Control should be turned off to prevent blurring. I ask this because I was shooting the moon the other night with a 70-300 Tamron, Canon 60D (on tripod of course!) in manual focus, hand held shutter release, no wind. in some photos focus was dead on, in others blurry, random. f/5.6, ISO 400, varying shutter times. Could IS/VC be the culprit?
Noob question time, sorry if this has been address... (
show quote)
Movement of the moon has been covered in some of the responses below; however I'd like to add my two cents worth to the subject.
Remember that both the moon AND the earth are moving in relation to each other --- the moon in a some what westerly direction to the earth, which is ROTATING on it's axis and moving through the heavens at 24,000 miles an hour in an easterly direction which is counter to that of the moon.
blondieone wrote:
I am a finalist in a photo contest would you take the time to see if I am worthy of your vote the site is reasonstoloveidaho.com My photo is Sailing Free at BayView Idaho Thanks for you help guys
Just added my vote --- very nice composition and great colors.
JimH wrote:
Lens Micro-Adjustment tends to be body-specific. Some offer it, some do not. If your menuing system has a choice for something like "lens micro adjustment", you do.
Most entry level bodies will NOT have this option. My 50D does but the Rebel series do not. Fairly certain the 1D, 5D and 7D have it. Not sure about the 60D but I strongly suspect it does.
Micro adjustment is a LENS thing, not a CAMERA BODY thing, per se. In other words, if you do one lens and it needs an adjustment, you can't assume that ALL your lenses are going to need it. You must test each one in turn, and there may be no adjustment at all needed.
I tested mine and they were OK. But I'm thinking that if any of my glass absorbs a good solid KNOCK on something one day, I will probably have to re-test.
Lens Micro-Adjustment tends to be body-specific. S... (
show quote)
I have a 5D MkII and both a micro adjustment for the camera if all lenses are not focusing and also an adjustment that is lens specific is in the menu.
I have On One software and they are very helpful. Go to their site and click on the support tab and look through the FAQ's to see if your problem is mentioned
there.
If not, call them on their 1-800 number to get a very helpful REAL PERSON as
I have done a couple of times.
The lens align is nice but you can make up something your self and save the $79.95
Get some lined graph paper (available everywhere --- Walgreens, etc.) with a black magic marker and a ruler trace a heavy black line on each of about 7 or 8 of the major one inch marks on the paper. Place this paper on a floor to use as a target and on one of the lines about mid point in the bunch place a target to aim at with the center focal point of your camera.
Mount your camera on a tripod and direct it at about a 45 degree angle to the paper and 7-8 feet out from it.
Next, set your camera to manual mode, set the lens wide open, focus on the target and take a shot of it. To be assured of a well focused image use a cable
release or set the shutter release timer.
If your camera is focusing properly it should be right on the target with about equal sharpness on the major one inch line both in front of and behind the target.
If it's not on the target and is more in front of it that's front focusing and the
opposite where it is behind is back focusing.
Some cameras have a menu where you can do an in-camera adjustment yourself.
Better to send it off for a good cleaning and adjustment though. Depending on the lens it will cost on average about $110 roughly.
Also you can find some sites on the internet that can give more info on this and how to do it.
Jud51 wrote:
Just a thought ,how many cameras would one person need or is it just the right lens you need to take the picture?
Of course it's all a matter of opinion, I like to carry two at times depending where I am and what my agenda at the time is. This
way you don't have to be constantly changing out lenses and you
can be ready for almost anything. Also having a second body is good insurance in case of a malfunction.
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/camera-exposure-infographic/
Picture Correct.com has a vast library of great tips and techniques
in all aspects of digital photography.