Lithium batteries have protective circuits in them. That prevents overcharging and over discharging. However, those circuits also need a very minimal current to keep the battery working. Even sitting, a small amount of energy will discharge. When the charge reaches too low a voltage, it will go into a deep sleep or hibernation. Sometimes it can not be woken out of this sleep and the battery becomes useless or dead.
There is no magic number of when a battery goes too discharged to be used. Normal use and charging cycling though is more than sufficient to get a lot of mileage out of your battery. Your camera or phone will usually shut down with enough energy left in the battery to keep it alive.
The best advice is to charge the battery every 6-8 months. Fully discharge the battery (using the camera flash helps discharge it quicker), then fully charge it and store it again. Store it in an air tight bag in a dry location.
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NOTE: While dead Li-on batteries may sometimes be revived, it is not a given and is usually prohibitive. A totally discharged battery (reading 0.0 volts) is usually damaged and not recommended for reuse. Trying to force charge a dead Li-on battery may cause an explosion or fire.
Good luck
Huey Driver wrote:
Stat's that are hard to ignore
Some stats are very easy to ignore.
1) Arrests are not convictions.
2) The governments does not release crime statistics for the year until a few months after the New Year. Some are well over a year old before the FBI releases them. The FBI has not released any crime statistics for human trafficking for 2018 and the 2017 statistics were released in September of 2018.
3) There are two statistics the FBI collects and reports for human trafficking; sex worker and involuntary servitude.
4) The numbers are not sourced. The two links on the graph are not credible.
In short, as a statistician for over 30 years, there are problems with your graph. Considering that it is a home made graph from "public.tableau.com", I think you were conned.
I found #1 just a touch busy, but the longer I looked the more I liked it.
I love #2. Fantastic.
I found #3 too confusing.
True, but not for the reason you think.
The lens projects a circle of light on the focal plane. The sensor fits its 36 x 24mm wide rectangle into that circle. To make that square would require reducing the width equal any rise in the height. My quick calculation is the square frame would need to be 30 x 30 mm to cover the same area as a FF shot.
A suggestion.
Mount the drawing on the wall without any glass. Tape a small pieced of whitest paper you have directly beneath; a small 1" x 1" will work. Use whatever light you wish to illuminate. Set the camera at 90 Deg, in the center. A tripod is best to handle a steady shot with long shutter. Use your best glass at f8 or f11. Frame the shot to include the white 1" paper.
Open the photo in your photo editor. Get your white balance using that 1" piece of paper. Adjust your contrast until you find a result you like. Crop to size and there you go.
NOTE: You can use artist's gum to mount the drawing temporarily. It is tacky and won't leave any residue. Mounting on white board stock will suffice to get that white balance. I do not advise using a flash, but if you do, bounce it or use a diffuser.
Good luck.
The standard questions to this include:
What Operating system are you using and is it up to date?
Have you updated any of the drive's drivers?
Have you tried a different USB cable and or port?
Have you tried a different computer?
If the answer to those is positive, have you tried a recovery program? I recommend CC Recuva,
https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva
Using an EF-S lens will give you a cropped image. Thus, an 10-16mm lens would show ~16-28mm result.
EF-S lenses are cheaper because they are smaller and made for the consumer market (cropped cameras). The glass is smaller, most importantly, on the rear, to match the smaller sensor size of Canon's cropped line-up. When an EF-S lens is used on a full frame camera, it will give a heavy vignetted image. However, because of the distortion around the edges, you would need to edit crop even more of the image for a satisfactory photo.
The focal length of DSLR lenses is standardized for projecting an image of 36 x 24 mm. When a smaller sensor is used, the same formula is applied even if it doesn't use all the projection. That is why sometimes you will see even a bridge camera's zoom referred to in the equivalent full frame 35mm (36 x 24mm) nomenclature. This formula standardizes the focal lens descriptions so everyone knows what they have.
To clarify one aspect of the difference between cropped and full frame. An EF-S does not magnify the image. A 100mm EF-S lens will still project the same size image that an EF 100mm lens would. It is the sensor size that actually magnifies the image. It does that by trimming the edges so there is less picture to see. If you were to take a FF image and cropped off 15% of each side, you would have the equivalent of a cropped camera. Your crop did not magnify the image but it narrowed the view so it appears magnified.
I prefer #1 with #2 as a close second.
Good catch.
WestTnGuy wrote:
While my iPhone 7 does make decent pictures, the only time I have used it in shear and a half is to take pictures of my banged up legs when I was in the hospital. While phones will replace the simple point and shoot cameras I just don’t think they will seriously compete with the true DSLR or mirror less.
Phone cameras continue to improve though. I am often amazed at how good they are. Plus, they can do video in a pinch at a very respectable quality. And, 95% of people are quite happy with the quality and can even play it back on their phones.
I should point out that I use my phone camera much differently from my Canon.