I agree that at F11 everything should be sharp in focus, & applying noise reduction does soften the image. It is surprising to me that shooting in bright day light there should be little or no noise in the shadows. Why F11? F8 would give more light.

To answer your question. Frankly I use different shooting techniques for different homes. For vacant small cottage types that have no electricity I do bring my flash and I don't use HDR. But for larger homes that are furnished and have larger rooms I shoot ambient light and do use HDR. It all depends on the lighting and room sizes. High contrast rooms I do bracket. The issue I am more concerned with is keystone & barreling. That was the original post. I am looking into Canon 10-18mm, but so far I haven't heard much about that choice here.

exactly my point. All to often on this discussion group photographers lose sight that it's only a MLS shoot for little money. All I was considering was to find the right lens to lower the field distortion, most responses were off the scale. I would upgrade big bucks if I had clients that would pay more.

Correct!!!

I am a photographer that would like to own all of the top notch equipment, but I am a practical person as well and It would take years to get my money back if I bought a full frame and a TS lens.

HI Gene thank you for sharing. I would like to add a more realistic view point . Yes I want to get as near excellent as possible photos, but, Gene, I am not shooting for a magazine, corporation or million dollar homes. but for realtors that will only pay $100.00 for a shoot. I am not sure the agents and public really can see what expensive equipment can do. But as a photographer I would want the best equipment. I do know to level my camera to the floor to cut down on some of the distortion. I am really trying to get a wide angle lens that will get me more of the tiny rooms, without barrel distortion or fisheye look. I am looking at the Canon 10-18mm for my crop sensor camera. What do you think about this lens? I have a 15-85mm but it has too much barrel distortion. I am presently using a 17-55mm which has no barrel distortion but limits the amount of the room that I can take. I am not sure buying a full frame camera ,like the Canon 6D2, will help that much. To put 2K into a new camera and lens just isn't practical for this market where I'm living now.
So Gene, what lens would you suggest for my Canon 7D?

do you have any experience with the 10-18mm? I'm using a crop sensor? how is the distortion?

I have gone in a circle, firstly looking at a new full frame camera and lens, to keeping my 7D and adding a new wide angle lens. I decided to keep the 7D and add a new lens. Now I am researching what wide angle lens I will need. I am looking into the Canon 10-18mm but don't know how much distortion it has. It the barrel affect the fisheyes have that I don't want. I can adjust the tilt distortion In LR also by keeping it parallel but the barrel effect I don't want. have you had any experience with the 10-18?

Anyone using the new Canon 6D2 built in HDR? Does it work? I am thinking about buying one.

If there is no motion I suggest long exposures without any lights. Set to aperture priority, F8, a heavy tripod, bracket at +/- 1stop ( setting your camera to bracketing & use a trigger cable) Never touch the camera while bracketing. In post production use HDR. Shoot at different angles, and use soft light from a window if possible.

I agree that some photographers over do the HDR. I use it for the window blow outs. Extending the dynamic range allows for a good outside view, with no blow out. However I have closed down shades because the view outside wasn't attractive. Like you I have been shooting for years, but had to learn a different technique for interiors.

Hi. The agents here wont pay more than $100~150. I try to be competitive and charge $100.00. My technique does not require drones, & lighting equipment. My shoots generally take about an hour. I shoot using ambient light, which requires just the camera and tripod. I set the camera to aperture, F8, bracket 1 step, & shoot 3 shots. I am contemplating buying a Full Frame Canon 6D that has the HDR built in, which saves tons of time PP. I find that the lower priced homes demands more creativity, where the million dollar homes actually sell themselves. I actually spend less time at larger homes. Its these tiny homes that are cramped and are not furnished with expensive furniture.

iPhone

HI. I have been in my own photography business for over a decade doing studio shoots and remotes, & like you I just recently got into doing real estate shoots. I charge $100 per shoot and it take me no more than an hour to do the shoot, another hour PP . More and more agents are using us pros rather than using their iphones. They now see how fast they get showings. The houses here range from million dollar to 100k . Its a beach community and there are tons of real estate agents here.
I discovered quickly that I had to get the right equipment. I use full frame and wide lenses. the rooms are tiny. I got new business cards and a letter of recommendation and started to knock on doors.
You might look into a technique where you use ambient light bracketed in Aperture Priority. No need to bring lights or flashes. The only tricky part of the shoot is the blow out from the windows. Look into HDR. The new Canon 6D has HDR, this will save you lots of time. practice at home . The other part you will need to know is how to send the images so the agent can upload them into the multiple listings programs. I use LR, as it has HDR and I resize the photos at a 4:3 aspect ratio. This the standard that the agents use with Paragon MLS program. I hope you get well. Don't over do it. Lee

That is exactly what I did and I have gotten 2 agents shoots so far in 3 weeks.

I agree with your statements. My area has million dollar to 50K homes, private as well as condos. I have always held myself to doing the best I can no matter what I am shooting or how much I charge.