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Posts for: CatMarley
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Apr 22, 2020 13:33:21   #
JimH123 wrote:
I have been playing with some software to process astrophotography images and find that using RAW files produces images with a lot more detail. But, Nebulosity is a niche type product, and the demosaicing process it tuned for detail, and not for color accuracy. And the color accuracy is actually horrendous with the image being skewed heavily towards green since there 2 green pixels for every 1 red and 1 blue and apparently, it doesn't do anything with that information. But the results are really detailed, and the difference is the demosaicing algorithm being used.

I will go through an example. First image is the original. I used Lightroom to convert the RAW to JPEG and am posting the JPEG without additional processing.

Second image is the nebulosity output, use the same RAW file as input. The output is very green, but it doesn't matter for what I'm going to do.

Third image is the processed image where the resolution of the Nebulosity file has been transferred to the color image using Hi Pass. And here is how it was processed. Both the original RAW and a Nebulosity TIFF file where loaded into Photoshop. For the RAW, lens correction is turned off. I then caused the 2 images to be loaded as layers with the Nebulosity image on top. Then did an auto align. Next, selected only the top image and set it to "Soft Light". Then went to Filters/Others/ and selected Hi Pass. Set the radius to 3.0. When done, flattened the image and saved it.

The last image is a side by side with the processed image on the left and original on the right. It is a heavy crop showing a small region of the image. The original at this crop level seems a bit smeared whereas the processed file still shows detail.
I have been playing with some software to process ... (show quote)


All I see is increased contrast. You can't add detail that was not there to begin with.
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Apr 20, 2020 13:49:14   #
trapper1 wrote:
In taking pictures in bright sunshine, the subject I am trying to take is often almost not viewable due to the glare from the sunlight on the LCD. Even trying to hold a shade over the LCD does not help much. Do you have this problem and if so, how do you cope with it? Is there any kind of filter to attach to the LCD to cut the glare? Suggestions ae more than welcome.


A very big hat
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Apr 20, 2020 12:07:26   #
billnikon wrote:
Really, to quote you, "they will not be living long enough ", a new low in compassion and hope here at UHH. I really think you could have worded that post differently, really.


The truth is unkind? How many 70+ people think they will be out shooting in 20 years, and how many lenses for the new mirrorless will Nikon bring out before they are no longer out shooting? The use of the old lenses with that clunky adapter is a kludge at best, so for the older generation, it makes sense to stick with the DSLRs and leave the MILCs to the younger folks who can wait for the lens selection to catch up with their new format. I switched to Fuji rather than the new Nikon format, because I am an old bag!
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Apr 19, 2020 16:19:00   #
Gene51 wrote:
You would have been better off getting a D850. Even with the FTZ adapter, A/F performance is mediocre with legacy motorized lenses - and not at all possible with non-motorized lenses (AF-D, etc).


Yes probably the over 70 crowd IS better off settling for the old technology, since they will not be living long enough to collect the lenses that really GO with the new Nikon cameras.
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Apr 18, 2020 16:34:36   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Thanks Cat! I don't have the Fuji X series so I checked only line and found the 16-80 and the 18-135 are about the same price (the 18-135 is a bit more) but looking at the pictures I notice the 16-80 looks a lot better and noticed it has the aperture ring.
So to be honest without knowing anything else I would have the tendency to choose the 16-80 from look alone.


18-135 has an aperture ring as well, and is a very nice lens. But it has a tendency to hunt for focus in poor light. Sometimes I miss a shot with fast moving puppies because of this. Traveling, a lot of what you do is "grab" shots, at least that is what I do, so I don't know if my 18-135 is the lens I want to take on a trip.
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Apr 18, 2020 16:25:46   #
tfgone wrote:
you are correct.
too much distancing to think correctly. How do you like the results ?


Optical quality is par for Fuji which is near the top of the heap. More plastic than the x line which is all metal, but the IQ is excellent, and it is a bit smaller and lighter than its x sibling the 50-200 and has a bit more reach. Cheaper too. I really don't think Fuji makes any poor quality lenses. Fuji makes elegant stuff.
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Apr 18, 2020 13:25:47   #
tfgone wrote:
I can reccomend the XC line of Fuji lens
15-45 and 50-230. Factor in the crop factor and you have a range from 21-345 in only two lens. Image quality is excellent but if you need control of aperture hou must do it thru the menu system.
Prices are very reasonable. I recently took a trip to Thailand and only took these lenses. I can say that I was very pleased with the results


I have 2 Fuji cameras and I have the 55-230 "C" lens. I can use it full manual, and I control the aperture, not thru the menu, but using the rear dial.
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Apr 18, 2020 13:15:14   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Does the aperture ring on the 16-80 mean anything to any of you?


The 18-55 also has an aperture ring. I was my impression that all the X class Fuji lenses have aperture rings, but the C class do not. But you can still use the c class lenses in Aperture priority on the X cameras using the rear dial to control aperture.
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Apr 18, 2020 08:44:39   #
Millsy wrote:
Hi everyone, been mulling over suitable travel lenses for a Fuji X T3. Interested to hear opinions on the 16 - 80 mm and the 18 - 130 mm. Anyone tried both? Open to other suggestions too. Thanks in advance.


I have the 18-135 . Nice lens but slow to autofocus. For travel I want something very quick to respond. The 18-55 is still the best lens Fuji has in the x series in terms of price and usefulness.
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Apr 8, 2020 14:19:21   #
kennmurrah wrote:
All right, I own a Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2 TTL On-Camera Flash Speedlight For Olympus, as well as a Flashpoint R2 TTL Transmitter for Panasonic and Olympus Cameras.

I recently bought a used Olympus EM-1 mark ii, and seller "threw in" a Olympus electronic flash FL36R, a Nissan i40, and Mcoplus speedlite MCO320. I have no idea what I have or how I might use it.

Tell me what to buy. Or if I should chunk these new lights in the trash. Is it possible to control these as extra flashes?

I apologize for the seemingly elementary questions, but I am truly lost and I would appreciate any suggestions, even the snarky ones.

Thanks.
All right, I own a Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2 TTL O... (show quote)


Nissin i40 is a VERY nice flash and nor cheap at all. Treasure it. Use it. You will love it.
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Apr 7, 2020 17:05:27   #
kenArchi wrote:
Can you change exposure at ISO, Aperture or Speed?
Would that give better control knowing what you will get?

It seems confusing using Exposure Compensation.
Do you know what it is changing in your camera?
If it changes aperture, it will change depth of field. That might not be what I want.
So I see how confusing it is because I am not in control.

Am I being correct in this matter.
Or photographers don't care about the end result of their pictures.


If you don't know, you have never used it. Those of us who use it need it. Obviously you don't.
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Mar 22, 2020 16:54:26   #
DeanS wrote:
Many thanks to all who have provided their experiences and opinions. I am in no hurry to replace my Leica V-Lux 4 at this point as it still functions in a somewhat crippled mode. Plan to visit my local b&m after the new Fuji is available.

Tks again.


Sounds like a plan, Dean! I think after you get your hands on a Fuji X, you won't miss your wounded Leica!
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Mar 22, 2020 12:57:13   #
DeanS wrote:
Considering replacing my Leica V-Lux 4 with one of these id’ed above. The material I have seen on the newer Leica, V-Lux 5, was not very positive. My research on the three mentioned makes deciding difficult.

Interested in opinions from Hoggers who have hands-on experience with one or more of these. Please, no conjecture. Tia. 😎


X-T4 is not available yet, but It is likely to have many of the characteristics as the other x cameras, only better! I think it is likely to be the best of the crop format MILC's now on the market. Ease of use, and IQ of the X's are superior to all the others.
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Mar 16, 2020 15:33:14   #
Nature loves GREEN, but not only in Flora.


(Download)
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Mar 14, 2020 09:09:40   #
srt101fan wrote:
Composition is mentioned quite often in UHH topics. Usually it refers to the arrangement of the main visual elements within the image. But is the word frequently misused?

Many posters, when discussing a photo, will mention sharpness, contrast, color, etc. Composition gets highlighted, often with the implication that it is the most important element of a good photo. Usually absent in these discussions is photographic content.

Do some folks confuse "composition" with "content"?
Composition is mentioned quite often in UHH topics... (show quote)


I hope that everyone understands the English language well enough to distinguish "composition" from "content". I don't see how anyone could confuse the actual objects being photographed with the arrangement of those objects in the frame.
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