Posts for: marki3rd
Jun 5, 2017 10:52:19 #
rafikiphoto wrote:
On the 5D Mk IV you can set both the shutter button and the AF-ON buttons to AF. However, if you want to BBF whilst the shutter button also has AF you must press and hold the AF-ON button (or whichever button you have assigned to AF) whilst the shot is taken.
I have read your post several times trying to understand it. When you state "you can set both the shutter button and the AF-ON buttons to AF" do you mean at the same time or are you saying either can be set to AF.
Jun 5, 2017 09:59:20 #
davidrb wrote:
It is you mark who does not understand. The only method to de-activate the AF feature of the shutter button is to go into the custom menu and do so manually. AF is not automatically removed from the shutter button just because another button on the back of the camera now does that function. That is all explained in the manual. The OP may have had a button on the rear of the camera that activated AF but the shutter button is still doing that function.
The OP states he has a Canon Camera. I may be wrong, but I do not believe you can have back button activated focus set up and still have half press shutter button focus. Somebody provide me with information that this is wrong as I would like to know when I am in error.
Now, I shoot with a Canon Camera and a Pentax Camera. The Canon completely switches the AF function to the back button and only the back button. The Pentax on the other hand can be setup to have both buttons AF. On the Pentax you have the option (which I have never understood the reason for) to completely switch the AF over to the back button or leave both buttons capable of AF.
Perhaps it is the Canon vs Pentax difference that causes confusion or do some models of Canon Cameras work that way?
Jun 4, 2017 21:46:06 #
davidrb wrote:
While I do not shoot the 5D Mk iv my other Canon's require the user to de-activate the AF function of the shutter button. Look in the owner's manual under custom functions for the instructions on setting your camera. You can put an end to the frustration. Good luck.
You obviously do not understand.... The OP stated he is set up for BBF and is using BBF.... He therefore has already "de-activated" the AF function of the shutter button. Your suggestion that he would "put an end to his frustration" makes no sense!!
Jun 2, 2017 16:22:09 #
Larry J wrote:
I have been shooting with a Nikon 7100 for about three years. Most of my pictures are nature and landscape. I am not getting the clarity/focus from my 7100. Reading the specs on the D500 with the 153 focus points and the speed looks like it would solve my issues. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
If you think upgrading to a D500 is going to solve your focusing issues you will be disappointed unless the problem is actually your D7100 which is the least likely cause. The D7100 is an excellent camera that produces beautiful IQ images if the shooter does his/her job properly. There are multiple causes of less than sharp images out of any camera, and probably the greatest cause is not "focus" but camera or subject motion, and a new camera will not help with that; only the shooter technique can cure that problem. As stated above, front or back focusing could be at play, and that could be a lens issue, but this is easily checked for. A search will reveal many explanations of how to check for front/back focusing.
Of coarse if you simply have upgrade GAS, and don't mind spending the money, then you don't need advise. Just go for it. Most hoggers will tell you marvelous stories about how much better the D500 is, but the truth is the D7100 is an excellent camera for most users.
Jun 1, 2017 22:53:31 #
a6k wrote:
That is true. The linear dimensions are linearly proportional to the actual, physical focal length. But, it's just elementary geometry that if you double the linear dimensions you quadruple the area and that can affect image quality.
Yes, if the focal length doubles the dimensions would double and so the area would quadruple ( for example - 2x4=8 doubles to 4x8=32 and 32 is 4 times greater than 8). And yes, in the case of an image, that increased area could result in greater image quality. You make a good point.
Jun 1, 2017 15:50:04 #
boberic wrote:
100mm is 1/3 of 300mmso there would be a 33% increase
Huhh?
May 30, 2017 16:13:30 #
May 25, 2017 18:15:23 #
OutBack wrote:
This is the rules almost all pros used for film ca... (show quote)
Who are you trying to impress? What a lot if useless goblygook.
May 25, 2017 17:43:00 #
rmalarz wrote:
I have an older 300mm Nikkor-W lens/camera set up that allows me to vary the DOF within each f-stop. In fact, with the correct adjustments I have infinite DOF. But, that's another day's topic.
--Bob
I have an older 300mm Nikkor-W lens/camera set up that allows me to vary the DOF within each f-stop. In fact, with the correct adjustments I have infinite DOF. But, that's another day's topic.
--Bob
Sounds like you have a tilt going on.
May 25, 2017 17:24:21 #
rehess wrote:
You do realize that your words apply to DSLR cameras only, don't you? The method used by MILC is comparable to what we did in the days of manual focus, quitting only when actually in focus. This won't help you right now, but hopefully Pentax, Canon, and Nikon will find a way of using that technology in their DSLR cameras also.
What the heck are you talking about???
May 22, 2017 22:54:22 #
blackest wrote:
The spot metering attachment i have found used abo... (show quote)
You want to insure what ever you decide to purchase is correct for "Minolta Flash Meter IV". Some of what you found simply states "Minolta IV". Others refer to "Minolta IV F". They may all be using shorthand for the "Minolta Autometer IVF" which is a cheaper less capable Meter. I am not sure but it is possible that while it looks the same it may be different. I know that the one for the Flash Meter IV has a cam on the underside that closes a switch contact that identifies it as the reflected metering unit versus the incident diffuser. I'm just saying try to determin that it is correct for your meter.
May 22, 2017 17:52:53 #
blackest wrote:
Soft case 
Flap empty 
Flap empty Bummer. Just a thought. I guess you have two options that may be fruitful. Find one for sale used (this is possible because I have seen that on ebay) or if Kenko can help that would probably be the quickest solution. I wish you good luck!
May 22, 2017 17:11:52 #
Another thought just occured to me. Did your meter come with the soft case? If it did... there is a little pocket in the flap that is intended to store the unused adapter. You might get lucky and find the reflected disk in there.
May 22, 2017 16:57:26 #
blackest wrote:
I found this page
https://www.intro2020.co.uk/Catalogue/ProductList/digital-meters?catalogueLevelItemID=b226125e-4af6-428d-a0b3-6fe56cbee455
now a fella on B&H website said his minolta spot attachment fit the kenko but the kenko looks more like a different minolta.
So I'm not sure if a kenko version would fit the minolta ( the spot attachment on ebay is less than a 1/3rd of the retail price of the kenko version) they look very very similar.
https://www.intro2020.co.uk/Catalogue/ProductList/digital-meters?catalogueLevelItemID=b226125e-4af6-428d-a0b3-6fe56cbee455
now a fella on B&H website said his minolta spot attachment fit the kenko but the kenko looks more like a different minolta.
So I'm not sure if a kenko version would fit the minolta ( the spot attachment on ebay is less than a 1/3rd of the retail price of the kenko version) they look very very similar.
Kenko manufactures and sells meters based on the original Minoltas but I do not know if they are 100% compatible with the originals, not only in operation but in hardware. I suggest you contact Kenko (email or fone) and ask if they can supply a reflected reading disk for the FM IV.
May 22, 2017 16:41:11 #
blackest wrote:
I think i may be missing something i have the dome for the incident reading but nothing for the reflected exposure.
I think there is a spot meter attachment on ebay for $50
I think there is a spot meter attachment on ebay for $50
You are missing something. The reflected thingy is a black flat disk with a hole in the middle. You should be able to find one on ebay if you look around long enough. The Spot Meter attachment is is a specialized device that has optics you look through to aim it sorta like a miniature spotting scope. You don't need that for general metering use. It only allows taking narrower field of view readings. Are you into the Zone System? Save your $$ and try to find the reflected reading attachment.