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Posts for: CraigFair
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Sep 24, 2014 19:07:36   #
[quote=Gene51]Mostly right, but with a few additional considerations:

1 and 2. Kit/consumer grade FX lenses are ok on DX. If you intend to get FX in the future, make sure you stay clear of the turkeys. Nikon makes some very good consumer FX lenses, but the 28-300 is not one of them.

From experience I agree with Gene, the 28-300 FX Lens was fantastic on my D5300 DX but when I moved up to the D600 FX it just could not make the grade any more.
Craig
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Sep 21, 2014 14:38:37   #
Gene51 wrote:
I locked myself in a room and didn't come out until I figured it out. The develop module was not the issue - but the catalog threw me a curve. Once I let go of trying to manage files in the OS folder system AND Lightroom, it all made sense. Once you start using Lightroom you are best served if you use it to do all file management. The other "stuff" is similar enough to other editing programs and fairly easy to learn.


I can NOT figure out where Lightroom is putting all the Imports and Exports???
Craig
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Sep 19, 2014 21:48:54   #
[quote=redhogbill]a bridge is a structure that goes from one land mass to to another land mass to give access over a gorge or river!!!
a smart file is any file that is on my computer!!!! {because they are smarter than me!
:D LOL, sorry I could not let it go!!
by the way bridge is an Adobe program "SIMILAR" to light room!! SIMILAR !!!!for all the light room haters[/quote

Thanks Bill we need a little humor around here
Craig :thumbup:
I don't hate either one yet. I just figured out how to turn em on!!!
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Sep 19, 2014 19:57:30   #
Mark7829 wrote:
I don't understand this process. Is this a raw image you brought into PS? A better work path is Bridge - ACR - PS. Bring it into PS as a smart object. You can do crop and level inside ACR. No need to create a duplicate layer. Why save as a jpeg at the end? What happened to the psd file?

What is Bridge and what exactly is a Smart File. I think I understand Saving JPEG's they're universal.
Craig
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Sep 19, 2014 19:52:15   #
jcarlosjr wrote:
MY first step, is to save the file as a .PSD This stops any accidental saves in jpg format when I am rushing to close the program.

Next I duplicate the background layer. I turn off the eyeball and keep this layer as a reference.

Then I do a level (if necessary) and rough crop. This gives me an image that i can then apply any adjustments, exposure changes, filters etc.

I again save the .psd with a -e after the file name, or a number to indicate it is an Edited or revised version of my first .psd save.

Finally I do a precise crop and save as .jpg. my file names will include the crop ratio: empirestate9911-8x10.jpg or empirestate9911-5x7.jpg. The 9911 in my examples is the last part of the file name assigned by my camera. This way I can search and find the original as-shot image if necessary.
MY first step, is to save the file as a .PSD This... (show quote)


JCarlos thanks I've been working on saving .NEF's to .PSD's and working on them a bit
Craig
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Sep 19, 2014 17:42:40   #
Mark7829 wrote:
Not exactly... They can be two different areas. In ACR/LR in the Detail Panel you use the masking slider to specify/limit where the sharpening will occur. You don't sharpen the whole image ever. You don't sharpen blue sky so you mask it and prevent it from sharpening. If you hold down the ALT key as you move the masking slider, the white area is to be sharpened and black not. You increase or decrease the area. Luminance comes in and takes care of the broader area where noise is. The order does not matter. What does is that you zoom into at 100% and evaluate your image as to what it needs. Noise may or may not be present. Can you recognize the different kinds of noise? If you can't, time for some instruction that will help you be better at post processing.
Not exactly... They can be two different areas. I... (show quote)


Thank you Mark, I just got PS & LR a couple days ago. I've got aways to go to get the skills you talk about. I worked on layers a little last night, I'll see if I can figure out what you just told me about Masking.
Craig
I just printed it out.
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Sep 19, 2014 16:08:11   #
steveg48 wrote:
Sharpening should be done after noise reduction. Otherwise you will be sharpening the noise.


This makes the most sense of anything I've read about Sharpening and Noise Reduction.
Craig
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Sep 19, 2014 09:03:50   #
brucew29 wrote:
Hi gekko11,

Per our earlier PM and your approval, here is a Photoshop rendering of your photo... this is only one interpretation and I know many different versions are possible...

Hi Bruce can you tell us what steps you took in PS or LR to clean up this shot???
Craig
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Sep 18, 2014 18:19:38   #
GTinSoCal wrote:
Nicely done, brought out details and another galaxy!

GT


Thank you GT, I just got PS and LR 3 days ago so it was purely by accident.
I wish I could duplicate what I did.
Craig
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Sep 18, 2014 15:48:32   #
Bram boy wrote:
small differences ? if you or every one else reading this believed it . there would be no more 80-400mm nikons or of canon L lenses sold in that range . unless
they were the same price as the tamron. 150-600mm . and I have seen pages of comparisons . and I'm no pro . but the difference is there believe me . and it's the canons and nikons who are the winneres by a long shot . your not going to see any pro's switching to tamron for there wild life or sports shooting . not by a country mile .

I did not make this up here is the Full Frame test from DxOMark
http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tamron-150-600-5-6p3/2
And here is the APS-C test
http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tamron-150-600-5-6p3
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Sep 18, 2014 11:42:55   #
Bram boy wrote:
from what I under stand the D800 , 800e really likes the top of the line lenses , that tamron might not do it justice ? any one heard anything about that . as every thing I read the d800 shows every nook and glitch in a len's
that is not up to par with it .

Here is what I read at DxOMark and I might be reading into it what I want to hear??? Craig
While the Tamron may not be at its best at 600mm, none of the other lenses we're looking at reach that long at all. So to make a fair comparison, we have to look at how they match up across their shared focal length range. For example, in these tests the Sigma 150-500mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM is no sharper at 500mm than the Tamron is at 600mm. Meanwhile Canon's ageing EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM simply can't keep pace with the Tamron's far more modern optics; it's simply not as sharp when compared like-for-like on the EOS 7D.
This lens review uses DxOMark data thanks to a partnership between dpreview.com and DxO Labs
Compared to the recently-announced Nikon AF-S Nikkor 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR, the Tamron manages to keep pace optically across the shared zoom range - there are some small differences in measured sharpness here and there, and the Tamron has slightly higher CA at 400mm, but overall the lenses are more similar than different. The only lens that comes out noticeably ahead in any way, in fact, is the Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6 G SSM II, which offers spectacular sharpness wide-open at 400mm.
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Sep 17, 2014 13:34:32   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Which filter did you add?
Light pollution?
This has a bit more detail.


The only things I did was filter it in Lightroom.
The optic filters I have only fit the Meade 8"
which will happen tonight I hope
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Sep 17, 2014 02:05:33   #
CraigFair wrote:
Thank you
I have a filter that will give a lot more definition to the big fuzz ball.


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Sep 17, 2014 00:42:57   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Looks a little foggy... ;)
Nope.. looks pretty good.
:thumbup:

Thank you
I have a filter that will give a lot more definition to the big fuzz ball.
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Sep 17, 2014 00:33:45   #
CraigFair wrote:
Nikon D600
Meade 8" 2000mm
#1 SS 1/60"
f/10
ISO 1000
I pushed the ISO to see what happens.
#2 SS 1/30"
I stuck a BAADER 17mm Lens in between the Telescope and the Camera.
In this very light cloud cover I just can't get crystal clear shots
Craig


Moments ago I just shot the M31 for the first time through my 1000mm Russian Reflex Mirror Lens


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