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Posts for: CraigFair
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Oct 14, 2014 12:06:54   #
treadwl wrote:
The night I went to photography the Milky Way I arrived early at the lake to get a position for after dark. Since I had chosen a clear night (so I could shoot the stars) I was not expecting much in the way of a sunset. However I did manage to work up something a bit different for a sunset photo. Hope you enjoy the shot.

Nikon D800 24-70mm lens @28mm. ISO 320, f20, 1/40 second, GND Filter, cable release on tripod.

Thanks for looking. Comments appreciated.

Larry


Nice nice nice, I'll bet you got some stunning Star shots too.
Craig
Oh yea we also have a Astrophotography section too.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-109-1.html
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Oct 14, 2014 08:16:42   #
dmsM43 wrote:
I just realized that you Pentax lenses will probably also fit on the current Pentax digital camera bodies. You may or may not need an adapter, depending on whether the lenses are M42 screw mount or bayonet mount. Again, they would be manual focus and manual diaphragm.


The Pentax K-mount, sometimes referred to as the "PK-mount", is a lens mount standard for mounting interchangeable photographic lenses to 35 mm single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras. It was created by Pentax in 1975,[1] and has been used by all Pentax 35 mm and digital SLRs since; it is also used by the Pentax K-01, a mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera introduced in 2012. A number of other manufacturers have also produced many K-mount lenses and K-mount cameras.
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Oct 14, 2014 04:05:37   #
marcomarks wrote:
Or you could wait and use adjustable noise reduction in Photoshop CC, Lightroom, or Paintshop Pro to take control of how much is applied, making it less obvious.


I just tried in Camera, without any NR, Long Exposure NR, High ISO NR then Both NR's.
5 sec. ISO 3200, f/2.8 and all 4 had the same Noise to my eye. Rather modest settings I think.
It was not till I got into LR that I could reduce any Noise.
Craig
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Oct 13, 2014 17:37:24   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Seeing was only fair with strong high winds making it tough to get a really strong focus.
All of these shots are as shot without processing other than converting to JPG from RAW.
Oh yeah, Canon 7D on these for the crop sensor boast.


Ya Hoo!!! You finally got some clear skies Congrats and some mighty fine Photographs too.
Craig
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Oct 13, 2014 14:39:35   #
GTinSoCal wrote:
Regaeding sighting the sun, an easy way to get roughly sighted in is to look at the shadow of the scope.
Just align it until it is a circle.

GT


GT that sounds to simple and logical for our complicated minds. :thumbup:
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Oct 13, 2014 14:37:19   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Well the shot was oriented correctly on my screen. But I am at work.

Good set-up. Can I use a glue stick to keep it on the OTA? Something I can clean off between uses?
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 18:48:07   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Photo mat board works really well. It's stiff and thick enough to resist bending.


Photo mat board works really well.
OK I've got that covered. Pun intended
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 18:32:22   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
The first filters I made using old UV filters
Oh yeah.. throw away that junkie UV glass..
;)


That is exactly what I'll do then is use the worthless UV scratched glass filter frame for the 600mm. On the 8" I'll use 1" styrofoam and a piece of a file folder???
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 18:16:48   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
One other thing. Before each use, hold the filter up to a strong light and look for tears or holes.
This includes when you build it although the chance of a hole in new film is very slim as they coat both sides of the film to avoid even pin holes.
Also when sighting the scope for solar viewing do not use your spotting scope in fact put the covers on it to be safe.
I mount the filter on the scope and then view through the lens mount to get the sun into view since you will be looking through the solar film. It seems odd but that's the easiest way to get it in view.
One other thing. Before each use, hold the filter... (show quote)


Wow that is brilliant. I'll order my film today and get to work on the frames tomorrow.
Thank you for being so patient with me on this. I think I'll use my Mirrored 600mm and the Meade 8" I still do not intend on using an eyepiece to look at it I'll use Live View.
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 17:17:01   #
CraigFair wrote:
Thank you very much that's exactly the answer to the process I wanted. As you know Astrophotography is what I am really trying to get into.
And this Thread is all about NR. I do OK with terrestrial shots.
When you use high ISO NR that's going to leave you with JPEGs in Camera right???
From what I've read here High ISO NR would be good for what we like to shoot, for the Hot Spots, in long exposures & black backgrounds?
Craig


Everytime I use NR in Lightroom I get horrible artifacts.
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 17:12:48   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
The key to this film is not to try and stretch it. The directions that come with it are very clear. I use foam bard as my mount and photo mat board to make my locking cover. I can post a pic of the finished pic if you would like.


Yes please post the pics thank you.
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 17:05:19   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
I have been making and using Baader solar film filters for all my lenses including the new 11"

http://www.astro-physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/solar_acc/astrosolar

This site usually has decent deals on large sheets.

This was shot with this film. Granted its my 77mm Canon but I get just as nice of results with my 8". If the clouds ever let up I will try the 11" out and post some of those.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-234341-1.html
Yes a filter is a must when imaging the sun.
Be safe.
I have been making and using Baader solar film fil... (show quote)


Yes now I remember seeing that post, some great work in there. What I worry about making my own filters are wrinkles.
Do you use cardboard for frames?
Craig
PS: I just read the whole post and get the idea for making my own.
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Oct 12, 2014 16:07:40   #
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
Nicely shot.
Did you tweak it or as shot?
I however setup my scope so it would be acclimated.
Clouded out.
In a few months will get yet another chance.

Hi Albuqshutterbug, It's been a bad Summer for Seeing over there for you too.
Craig
In Central Calif Coast
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Oct 12, 2014 15:57:35   #
GTinSoCal wrote:
Wow, Craig, that's a loaded question.

I almost always try the NR in ACR to see if it will make do what I want it to do.
A lot of the time, it works fine and I'm done. Sometimes it is just a start, others it softens more than it reduces noise (not often though).

When I need additional NR once I'm in PS, I will often try the NR first, to see which direction I'm going to go. I take a snapshot of that (or them), then proceed to do whatever I wanted to do on the image. After I get it the way I think I want it, I'll then use whichever NR technique I previously thought would work the best.
Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.
If it doesn't, I'll try one of the other techniques.
Then save the PSD, and finish for whatever output I'm looking for saved as a JPEG.

I hope I made sense :-)

I'm guilty of reading LONG exposure NR into this thread :oops:

I'm guessing that's because High ISO and long exposures go hand in hand for me.

It's not that often I need to crank my ISO for anything but astro photography.

I going to try the high ISO NR on the next new moon :-D

GT
Wow, Craig, that's a loaded question. br br I alm... (show quote)


Thank you very much that's exactly the answer to the process I wanted. As you know Astrophotography is what I am really trying to get into.
And this Thread is all about NR. I do OK with terrestrial shots.
When you use high ISO NR that's going to leave you with JPEGs in Camera right???
From what I've read here High ISO NR would be good for what we like to shoot, for the Hot Spots, in long exposures & black backgrounds?
Craig
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Oct 12, 2014 14:45:45   #
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Me too, Craig. I have the one by J. Dennis Thomas. Good book. I have it highlighted, underlined and notes in the margins. It is a great quick-reference tool.

Yep, and lots of Post-Its
Craig
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