Don, the more I use my D3000, the better I like it! I know it's an old camera, but 10 MP gives a very fair image, and very suitable for my needs. I'm running two small monolight strobes (they survived my forced move three years ago, when my house was damaged beyond repair by vicious storms), GN 160 and 120, respectively. They should be suitable for individuals and small groups.

I tried using my on camera flash to fire the strobes, with limited success. The light would fire, but I wasn't pleased with the results. I could see the lights fire, but the subject area was darker than it should have been. I put a shoe adapter into the accessory shoe, added a PC cord, and BINGO, it worked! I did what the literature said couldn't be done without a radio slave. I tried various f stops, (f/4, f/5.6, f/11 and f/16), and I believe that f/11 at 1/60 will work just fine. Shooting at f/11 yields consistent results, as long as I let the lights recharge.

I have my first shoot in about 20 years coming up in a couple of weeks, and I want to make sure that people are in the mood to buy when they see the results.

I would never have expected such vehemence in a forum such as this. I would have thought that this was a place where people could intelligently discuss their experiences, swap war stories, and say what they did to overcome their predicaments.

IN the first place, Mary Kate, most people who buy DSLRs tend to leave them in "Auto," and let the camera do their thinking for them. In the second place, there isn't an on board camera flash that can compete with a professional light setup. In the third place, anyone trying to take pictures lunching off of said professional light setup is in for a sad reality check when they see their pictures. I shot a wedding couple 25 years ago, in silhouette, in front of a stained glass window at the church. One of the (well meaning, but clueless) guests told me I should have used flash.

So, if I stepped on your toes, that's the way it goes in the world of photography. By the way, those first three letters very well suit the person looking back at you from the mirror in the morning. I might even add the last four as well. You know what they say about opinions, right? Opinions are like a******s. Everybody has one, and they're full of **it.

Get to know me better from my posts before you start with the disparaging comments.

Well, maybe the pros could learn something here. The shot is the shot, regardless of whether it is printed, or on a CD. Selling the customer a CD of the photographs actually frees up the photographer from the chore of ordering prints, and the possibility of ordering the wrong print, or the the right print in the wrong size. Let's also not forget the framed picture going to "Uncle Jack" in Tennessee, or "Aunt Jill" in Pocatello, Idaho. Add to that the cost of shipping/postage, cost of albums and archival page inserts and frames, and one can quickly see why this option is chosen.

Besides, if the customer finds a print that they just love and can't print correctly, the odds are that they will come back, to get it done correctly.

I have often said that putting a camera in a person's hand does not make that person a photographer.

I've seen professional studios where I live, exhibiting pure crap.

I've shot a few weddings in my time. Would I do it now? Maybe.

The one thing to remember, even in this digital age, is that, the photographer is the professional. Guests with their iPhones, tablets and digital point and shoots cannot compete with the equipment or the experience that the professional brings to the table. Even if guests bring their own DSLRs, that doesn't mean that they know how to use them. Besides, The PROFESSIONAL has the ideal angle on all poses, and they have their camera set for the conditions at hand.

Unfortunately for me, the last wedding I shot was also my last wedding. I loaned out my proof book to the bride, and when I went to take her order, I found myself looking at a 5x7 of one of my shots, and it wasn't ordered from me. She claimed that is was given to her from a wedding guest. A blind man could see that it was very plainly my shot. I left without filling her order. I should have sued, but decided to end the business relationship instead. I had the negatives. All she could do was get copy prints.

Thanks! I hearken from the days when film was plentiful, and digital photography was in diapers. I have since embraced digital photography and all it can do. It wasn't showing that much promise when it first came out. What I like best about it is that you don't have to shoot roll after roll and get them processed, to see what you have. Now it's shoot, preview, and either keep it or delete it. Some people may be concerned with the "post production." I'm just content to get a good looking photo.

I agree with Seaside7. It depends on where you're shooting, and what you consider important in the shot. If you use a small aperture and the background is really sharp, will it detract from your subject? If so, you'll want to open the lens a stop or two. Lighting is also a consideration. Outdoors, it's better to risk a compromised subject than to have one that is washed out by overexposure.

In the studio, you would want to choose the f-stop that gives the sharpest reproduction of your subject, regardless of pose. If you have a willing subject, take some test shots, starting at f/16 at flash sync. Open your lens and repeat the procedure until you're satisfied with the results. I personally have used f/16, but I have also used f/8. Experiment now, so you'll have an idea what to use when you need to use it.

I heartily agree. You need the Nikkor AF-s lenses to be ale to use the autofocus. Manual mode is fine if you can control the environment, but that is not always possible.

HI, everybody! I'm Doug, and I'm a photography addict. (Oops, wrong group!) Well, I wouldn't say that I'm an addict. I haven't shot anything since a couple of nights ago. :) I was testing out my camera and lights for an upcoming photo shoot in a couple of weeks. I started in photography at Sears Portrait Studio, in Olympia, WA. I did great there, but had a problem with my temper. Needless to say, it was a learning experience. Since then, I've worked for Olan Mills, a couple of church directory companies, and a local chain store, servicing five stores in two states. Say what you want about this type of photography, but it is an excellent way to gain experience quickly. Sales average is the all-important indicator in this type of work, and I was usually on the "honor roll."

I have been away from photography for about 15 years. I tried to get back in once, and bought a Nikon D3000. I still have the camera, and intend to use it next month. I read something in the literature and online that bothered me, so I thought I'd try it and see. All the literature I have seen on the D3000 says that the on camera flash will not fire off camera slaves. Mine does. I tried using an accessory shoe adapter so I could hook to one of my strobes via a PC cable. No go on that.

The literature says that I need to purchase a radio slave. I know where to go to get one, if I do need one, and I have time to order before the shoot. Has anyone else had any luck using "less than recommended" means to fire off camera flash?