We cannot tell what you are responding to. I will note that you are misconstruing the term 'pixellation', which means visibility of pixels (in a specified viewing), not the existence of pixels.

If by 'resizing' you mean enlarging, then of course that is the answer (to making pixellation visible). Pixel count and pixel density are two different things. The higher the pixel density, the less visible pixellation is at any given degree of image enlargement.

Visible pixillation is a matter of the combination of sensor and magnification.

Some are good and some not.

[quote=AllenParkerPhotography]I started out by purchasing a camera bag from Amazon. I didn’t know what to really look for when deciding what camera bag to get so o got the bag that had a high rating with several other Amazon customers reviews.

As of right now, I have a Nikon 5600 with several lenses both prime and kit. My camera came with two kit lenses as I added 3 more over a two year period. I’ve added a Nikon Speed Flash and other miscellaneous items.

I’ve outgrown my current Altura Photo Camera bag. To be honest the Altura bag felt on the cheap side of quality. I always had a slight bit of doubt my equipment wasn’t as secure as it could have been due to the bag.

What camera bags do you recommend that’s the best bag for the buck?

Thanks for your help!


The "best" camera bag is the one which best accommodates the photographer's purpose and preferred process. A bag which holds practically everything may interfere with a photographer's efforts -- for example in a press coverage or a birding outing. On the other hand, on a long excursion, such as a safari or other extended outing, one may need to have everything along. Just shooting a wedding and reception can require a lot of stuff. So, I guess it is apparent that a photographer might need more than one bag in order to be able to take along only what is best for a given outing.

That image from Jake is not from me, nor is it the lens I've offered. Here is an image of my Canon 70-300mm L I've offered. I hope this can put the question to rest.

Not interested, but thanks.

Correct, Michael, it is the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens.

A pristine Canon EF 70-300mmf /4-5.6L IS USM lens (with orig. Canon box, hood, lens case). Asking $800 for this great zoom lens.

I cannot tell what ISO you used, but it seemed in the range of good quality (re. noise), so I'd say you are doing well and should not feel any need to load yourself down with gear when traveling. Granted there are times a person needs a tripod, but generally not for the usual daylight subjects.

Here’s my camera bag with my monopod (18 inches, including ballhead and quick-release mount attached). The bag’s flap and straps capture the monopod, plus a small carabiner is used at the head and a loop of line at the foot (held in a leg clip). The monopod works well with my full-frame Canon and a 100-400mm lens (with 1.4X extender). (NOTE: The ball needs to be set to moderately stiff and the camera handled “as if” being hand-held.) This has served well on a couple of European trips and various birding outings, though by knowing my camera settings (and limits) I do not use the monopod much.

Go as you are now, possibly with a compact monopod (with ball-head and quick release), but set your camera for repeating exposure and take enough to up your odds. You should also now evaluate what ISO and other settings you have been using and identify your personal limit for getting a god photo. (Remember, of course, that a tele photo needs a faster shutter speed than used for a 50mm take.) You have the advantage of reading your EXIF data to see what settings you used on whichever images you choose to review, so you should be able to prepare nicely for your photography on the trip.

Aperture should be wide open for testing focus, since that provides smallest depth of field.

Odd that you say you keep making errors going back and forth between your two "same line" cameras (which doesn't tell us what the differences are), yet you end up saying it doesn't make sense to have two identical cameras.

Each to her/his own, but when tw cameras are used and both are the same, the photographer is freed to concentrate on the intended image(s), which still leaves a fair amount of decision-making to do! I'm sure there would be special exception cases (such as having specialized gear for ultra close-ups, and so on).