Even your less favorite shots are beautiful Steve. I look forward to the arrival of my D850 so I can try the focus stacking feature. I do mainly landscapes and it can be a challenge to get a close foreground in focus unless I'm using the 14-24 wide open.

That was my hope as well. It was quite pricey but a great lens. I have sent it back to Nikon and hope they will get it back to the usual high standards.

If the issue is focus, would that result in the center sharpness being comparable and excellent with both lenses but the edges being less sharp in only one lens? I want to make sure I am chasing the correct problem. And to clarify an earlier comment, I did use the same camera with both lenses set on the same tripod with the same settings. So the only variable should be the lens.

If you have a way to contact the repair center I would love to do that. Every person I have talked to at Nikon customer service tells me that they have no way to contact the repair center directly. I have suggested that the tech working on my lens could email or call me so we could discuss the problem directly. The best they would offer is to advise me to put a note in the box for the tech. I have been able in the past to speak directly with the repair centers at both Cannon and Tamron and would love to do the same with Nikon.

Against all odds, I was hoping to simply get opinions from members regarding whether they felt I was correct in my assessment that the lens sharpness is less than it should be now. I have, in fact, already contacted the repair center and the lens is on the way back. Like many members, I am very hesitant to ever post a question for fear of being chided by some of our members. Reading my post, I don't really see it as a complaint, just a question as to whether I should be concerned.

If you read my original question (which I will copy here) it was just to see if other photographers felt that this difference in sharpness is indeed cause for concern or not out of normal range.

" I would very much appreciate the opinions of others on the site as to the edge sharpness of this very high quality lens and whether my concerns are justified."

If you could look at the test images and let me know what you think that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I have not done that. Since the center of the frame is very sharp would an adjustment to the edges negatively affect the center focus?

I recently had my 14-24 F/2.8 lens repaired and after taking test images was disappointed in the edge sharpness compared to tests I made earlier this year and tests after repair using my lens and the same lens a friend owns. I would very much appreciate the opinions of others on the site as to the edge sharpness of this very high quality lens and whether my concerns are justified. I found that at 24mm there was little difference between my lens tested in April, my lens tested after repair, and my friends lens. However, at 14mm, I see a decided drop in sharpness at the edges in my repaired lens compared to the same lens tested in April and my friends lens.

To keep the file sizes reasonable I converted all of the raw images to jpegs in Photoshop. I have included both the original size images and 100% zoom crops of the right side of each image. I used eye test charts to help in gauging the differences. All of the recent shots were taken at F/8 at 1/6 to 1/8 of a second. The two shots from April were at F/8 and 1/13 sec (different light). Thanks.

Phil

My lens after repair at 14mm

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My lens after repair at 14mm-100%

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Friends lens at 14mm

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Friends lens at 14mm-100%

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My lens last April at 14mm-Farther from wall

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My lens last April at 14mm-Farther from wall-100%

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My lens after repair at 14mm-farther from wall

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My lens after repair at 14mm-Farther from wall-100%

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Friends lens at 14mm-farther from wall

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Friends lens at 14mm-farther from wall-100%

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Thanks for the tip. I didn't realize that the self-timer mode also had choices for number of shots and frequency. That should work fine.

Phil

I take a lot of fly fishing pictures and while I often have friends who can model for me, sometimes I am by myself and have to be my own model. I usually use the timer delay for 10 or 20 seconds to give me time to get posed before the shutter clicks. It would be nice to set the camera to take several pictures, especially if there is some action, so I could select the best shot. Having read the owners manual and Darrell Young's "Mastering the Nikon D750", I am still not clear if I can do what I want. My goal would be to set the timer delay for 10 or 20 seconds and then have a burst of 6 or 8 shots 0.5 to 1 second apart. My question is how to combine both the CL and timer functions and if that is possible. At present I just take one shot, go back and review the image, and then repeat until I get what I want. A burst of several shots would be much more efficient for me.

I attached a couple of recent shots showing the type of images I am going for. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.

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I use the Nikon 14-24 F/2.8 for both landscape and star/milky way photography. It is an excellent lens. The main downside is that it doesn't accept filters. The lack of vibration reduction is occasionally an issue in low light but I normally use a tripod anyway.

My first lens for the 750 was a Tamron 24-70 F/2.8 which has VR. It's a good quality lens and produces excellent images at less than half the price of the Nikon version.

I can provide sample images if you want.

I was already planning to buy the new D850, but your initial evaluation of the camera specs has me drooling Steve. Looking forward to hearing your views once you get to test it.

Thanks for the very informative response. I must have the T2 mount as mine slips over the end of the lens and has three set screws. There are internal threads in the lens where an adapter could be screwed in. I found a T2 mount for Nikon cameras on Amazon which looks like the same design as my Canon, so I have ordered it and will give it a try.

Thanks. I think this is just what I need.

Back in the early 80's I took a weeklong nature photography course from two professionals who did a lot of wildlife photography. They used lens from Century optics (actually movie camera lenses) and loved them. At that time I bought a 650mm F/5.6 Tele-Athenar II lens with a Canon mount (the mounts were interchangeable). I switched to Nikon a couple of years ago (D750) and have three lenses, 14-24 F/2.8, 24-70 F/2.8, and 70-200 F/4. Since I don't do a lot of wildlife photography these days, I haven't invested in a longer lens. The 650 has been in it's case in the closet for the past 30 years and it occurred to me that I might just be able to use it on the 750. I recently began scanning my old slides from the 70's and 80's and came across shots taken with this lens and they are pretty sharp, so perhaps this could give me an inexpensive way to shoot a wildlife picture once in a while. It also reminded me how great Kodachrome slide film was.

I was wondering if anyone has used one of these lens or knows if adapters are available to use it on new Nikon bodies. Thanks.

Burrowing Owl, 1986, Canon AE-1, Century Tele-Athenar II 650mm F/5.6

I was there for the first time two weeks ago for just a brief visit and was most interested in seeing the sunset over the mountains. We drove up to Clingmans Dome during the day and it was a zoo, and I understand evening is much the same. I spoke with a park ranger and she strongly recommended Waterrock Knob. It's right on the Blue Ridge Parkway and has a great view west over the smokies. I attached a couple of shots from the one evening I was there.

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