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Posts for: marki3rd
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Jun 16, 2017 11:07:33   #
Geegee wrote:
Does it really matter?


Yes!
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Jun 15, 2017 12:56:15   #
jerryc41 wrote:
You'll love the printer. I hate rebates on plastic because it's hard to use that last couple of dollars left on it.


Not hard if you know how. Just offer it as (partial) payment on what ever you are purchasing. Then pay the balance with what ever method you like.
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Jun 11, 2017 18:05:31   #
jimmya wrote:
I can't tell why you "need" to replace your t3i. I've been shooting mine for the past 4 years or so and really enjoy the unit. The t6 wouldn't be much of an improvement anyway.


No, leg down. Look at specs!! If you really want to upgrade you should consider the T6i or T7i.
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Jun 10, 2017 17:16:57   #
MtnMan wrote:
Actually it is good for the battery to fully discharge. Some batteries can build in a memory if only partially discharged and recharged: i.e. lose effective capacity. I don't think that applies to Li batteries, though, which most now are.


No, it is not good for a battery to "fully discharge" As I have explained, if fully discharged, a charger will not apply charging voltage out of concern that to do so will overload the charging circuit.

Yes, there are some that recommend letting the battery run down to the point where the camera will no longer use it, and this condition is often referred to as fully discharged..... But it isn't.

True, some older tech batteries had a characteristic referred to as "memory" where a battery that has been left charging during operation, would not deliver enough current and would run down quickly. NiCad batteries are especially bad in this regard. Li-Ion batteries used in modern cameras do not tend to exhibit this characteristic, Nor Do Ni-Mh Batteries.
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Jun 10, 2017 17:04:48   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Then I suppose this renders the previous cautionary tales against discharging below a certain point, moot. I do carry two at all times as well as back ups for my R200s.


I thought I explained that when a functional working camera indicates an "empty" battery and shuts down, there is still a small voltage across the battery terminals. It is just toolow to power the camera, but it is enough voltage to indicate to a charger that it is safe to charge.

If for any reason the battery is discharged to the point that there is little or no voltage across it's terminals, a functional charger will refuse to apply charging voltage to it out of concern that it may be a shorted out battery (total failure) that would overload the charger and even possibly cause the bad battery to explode.

There are a at least three ways a battery could get in this severely discharged state:

1.) There could be a short circuit in the camera that would quickly empty the battery.
2.) There is a small current flowing in the camera even when the camera is off, and if a battery is left in the camera for an extended period of time, it could empty the battery. The camera manual probably mentions that there is current flow even when off that is necessary to keep certain functions alive.
3.) The battery itself could develop an internal short circuit.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:45:49   #
Sandroots wrote:
Thanks, Sandroots


Glad to help.
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Jun 10, 2017 10:32:34   #
PixelStan77 wrote:
Upload an image to:
https://www.camerashuttercount.com


Wrong answer!!! There is no shutter count info in the EXIF data with his Canon Camera and so your idea will not work. There are some utility programs available that will read the shutter count when the camera is connected to a computer via the USB Port. This information is also available using the "Magic Lantern" camera firmware extension.

I use a utility program called "Shutter Count" by Dire Studio. It costs something like $3 but once you have it you can use it as often as you like on as many Canon Cameras as you like.
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Jun 10, 2017 10:15:27   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
This doesn't reflect my experience. I have two OEM batteries for each of my Nikons. I've run all of them nearly flat multiple times and I've never had a problem. All four are going strong. The first two are 8 years old ; the second two are 4 years old. The only variable that affects their performance is heavy use of live view on some outings.


The camera is designed to not run with a battery that is discharged below a certain level. When working correctly, the camera will not discharge a battery below this level (which is not completely run down). So even if you allow the battery to discharge until the camera indicates no charge, there is in fact some lower voltage available across the battery contacts. It is therefore still chargeable. If a short circuit were to run the battery completely down, the charger will see it as a dead battery and will not charge it. This is an intentional design feature of the charger so it will not apply charging voltage to a dead battery and possibly overload the charger.

My advise to the OP is as follows:
If you have a spare battery, put it in the charger and see if the charging light comes on indicating normal charging. If you do not have a spare battery, get one and put it in the charger!!! Better yet, get a least two new batteries - it is unwise to not have a spare battery.

Once you have a charged battery available, put it in the camera and carefully check the camera out for normal operation.
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Jun 10, 2017 09:20:30   #
daveptt wrote:
If a Li-Ion battery falls below a certain voltage it will not pick up a charge, you can flash them with a higher voltage and they may recover, but don't do it unless you know how. you should never let them go completely flat. I change mine long before the camera indicates change.


You are absolutely correct. If a battery is discharged below a certain level, the charger will not recognize it and charge it. That is probably why the charger light is flashing.

If this is what is happening, the question then becomes why was the battery so run down when presumably it was fully operational when the camera was turned off. Makes me wonder if something was wrong with the camera and it ran the battery down even though it was turned off. I suspect there is nothing wrong with the charger and I am betting it will work normally if a new battery is inserted. My bet is there was/is a fault in the camera. I wonder if the camera will work correctly with a new battery?
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Jun 10, 2017 08:58:02   #
RichardSM wrote:
It maybe a hair or lint of some kind on your mirror.


Since it shows up in all the images made with the camera, it is definitely not on the mirror! Nothing on the mirror will be recorded in images made with a DSLR or SLR Camera. It will show in the view finder only, not in images.
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Jun 10, 2017 08:42:26   #
TB4 wrote:
OK, I do realize the camera automatically goes to sleep after about a minute of non-use. However, during that time it is continually metering as I walk along so my Q was about battery efficiency.


I do not believe the camera is continually metering at any time let alone when in sleep mode. The camera meters when the shutter is half pressed and only for a designated period of time.
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Jun 7, 2017 13:12:50   #
lamiaceae wrote:


Normally you only get oily diaphragms (blades, leaves) if some previous fool oiled instead of cleaning them.


This is not true. The primary cause of "oily diaphragms" is that the grease used on focusing helix's and aperture stop rings breaks down and looses viscosity; i.e. it becomes more oily. When this happens, the oily residue of the grease can, and often does, migrate onto the aperture blades. I would venture to say it would be very unusual for anyone to oil the internals of lenses, especially since to do so would require disassembly of the lens. Oily aperture blades are very common with lenses from some manufacturers, further illustrating that the cause is not some fool oiling the lens.
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Jun 7, 2017 08:26:12   #
Not enough dog images here so another closeup portrait of my favorite model, and yes, he spends all his time attempting to control my time.


(Download)
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Jun 6, 2017 17:50:11   #
boberic wrote:
Any motor will fail sooner or later. Purely mechanical (auto nothing ) lenses can last a lifetime. My canon Fd lenses from the early 70.s worked perfectly when I sold them late last year


In case anyone doesn't know, the Auto Designation on Pentax Takumar and many other old lenses refers to the fact that when set to "A" or "Auto" the aperture remains full open for focusing and in some cases for exposure readout. These lenses then "Automatically" stop down to the f-stop set on the aperture control ring when the shutter is tripped. It accomplishes this feat with a pin that gets pressed in or with a lever that gets moved. Sooo, you see, these lenses are not "auto nothing". They are "auto aperture".
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Jun 6, 2017 09:11:24   #
Roger Lee wrote:
I avoid using fluids especially around electronics. Use a pencil eraser.


Very bad advise. Pencil Eraser is abrasive. Contacts have very thin gold plating that can be damaged by eraser.
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