Have been using the X-Pro1 and X-E1 since they came out in 2012/2013. Still going strong. Finally upgraded to X-H1 and X-T20 a couple months ago.
My niece is now using the XE1.

I use cloud backup of my photos for off premise backup. Got tired of physically retrieving HD from other location(s) to update. I use a couple actually. Two are one price for lifetime license.
iDrive is one. They will also send you a hard drive to load up your files and you send it back rather than do continuous week+ long back up over internet. I got 10TB for $24.50 for 2 years, than $69.50 a year starting the third year.
Also use PolarBackup (formerly Zoolz) which is part of Genie9, a local backup software company. This is 'cold' backup on Amazon Glacier. Files are in deep freeze so slow to retrieve. Can get 5TB (sometimes 2 5TB) for $99.00 lifetime. Have had Zoolz since 2015. Been using Genie9 even longer to back up to an ioSafe Solo.
The other lifetime 10TB is a bit of a pain to use so won't reccomend.

A caution about graphite on aluminium. I too use a pencil. Just did use on filter the other day.
I looked to see if pencils still use graphite, they do, but found that it can cause corrosion of aluminum in the presence of moisture. The U.S. Air Force banned it from use in aluminum planes and gun manufacturers warn against using it.
I guess I can still use on zippers, but not aluminum filters.

What first drew me to Fuji was the aperture ring and shutter speed dial. Old world analog meets new world digital
If you are a jpeg shooter they are wonderful. Film simulations are great. Shoot RAW and camera can output any variant of jpegs the camera can. Can be down simply via computer.
Have used the X-Pro1 and X-E1 (since 2012/2013) like my old Nikon F and Nikkormat combo.
Finally upgraded to X-H1. Menu with multi choices has taken a while to get it dialed in. Bit of a pain. Have new X-T20 as back up and was up and running toot sweet. Less options.

It handles the interpolation of image file automatically. Is adjustable.
If printing different size prints handles the different sharpness that should be applied or not. Also adjustable.
A big one for me is it will print, just below the image, information of that image. You can customize the info.
Can save any printing done as a 'job' in a folder.

Manufacturers usually list authorized dealers somewhere. Here is Nikon's. Go to bottom of page>Shopping Help>Nikon Authorized Dealers (PDF)
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/about-nikon/search.page?q=authorized%20dealers&currentPage=1&facet=Overview

Geometrically speaking there are too many angles around here causing massive diffraction leading to chaos.
For the math maniacs -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAgfnK528RA

Use Canon Photo Paper Plus Semi-Gloss for 4x6 proofing.
https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/semi-glossy-paper 1/2 off.
Here's an article that has a good comparison of Pro Luster and Plus Semi-gloss.
https://www.pointsinfocus.com/reviews/accessories/printers-and-paper/canon-photo-paper-pro-luster/

It only works with the in camera processing engine. Does not affect Raw.
Also only works with Fuji lenses, which Fuji kind of reverse engineer digitally for the known short comings of the optical qualities of the lenses.
The LMO data is not readable in the RAW file to independent editing programs so they can not use it, yet.
Fuji has a Raw converter called Fuji X Raw Studio for desktops where you connect camera to computer to use the camera processing to produce a jpeg. You can turn the LMO on and off while viewing the image. Works fast. 2 seconds with CPU peaking at only 29%.

It is a software thing. I am now just getting into it and will be comparing shots and lenses at different f/stops.
What I have noticed is a sharpening mostly out to the edges of image even at medium f/stops. It is kind of like adding honey to the sweet spot, which is where i shoot mostly due to fear of diffraction.
How did you do those acuity vs aperture shots/graphs?

Fuji also has diffraction reduction function called 'lens modulation optimizer' in their cameras.
Works quite well if you use Fuji's Raw conversion. I am impressed.
Don't hear any talk about it even in Fuji circles.
Capture one has a diffraction module, but don't see much happening in its use.
I am interested in this subject because of my new camera with IBIS presents opportunities to stop down much more.
.

Perhaps use Ilford's own lab. Called Harman Lab. Opened in US a few years ago. Mostly B&W but does C-41.
http://www.harmanlab-us.com/

Photo of poster at the Swanky Bar in Talbert while getting coffee and sandwiches before boarding the Shannon Breeze ferry.

(Download)

A View From Ferry

(Download)

Case Logic SLRC-206
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/693295-REG/Case_Logic_SLRC_206_SLRC_206_SLR_Camera_Laptop_Backpack.html

Capture one has a Luma Range Tool. Automatic, adjustable luminosity range masking.
LightZone has/had a 10 step module for luminosity adjustment. One of their main tools.