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Posts for: CSI Dave
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Sep 13, 2013 13:16:08   #
lighthouse wrote:
My advice would be for the Sigma 10-20mm 1:4-5.6 EX DC HSM.
Cheaper, smaller and therefore cheaper filter size.
...


I also have the Sigma and would recommend it. However, it does take 77mm filters, which I don't consider all that small or necessarily cheap.
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Sep 3, 2013 16:27:41   #
dmeyer2m wrote:
I didn't get through all 5 pages of responses, so sorry if this has been addressed already. I believe there is one significant difference between the D5200's sensor and the D7100's--the D7100 sensor has no low pass filter and should, in theory, have an edge on sharpness over the D5200.


I mentioned it just a little while ago, but I'm surprised it didn't come up sooner.
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Sep 3, 2013 15:10:26   #
Radio wrote:
Now all you guys who are looking for super sharp pictures there is a solution for all brands of cameras to produce extremely sharp pictures,its called spending the $275 and having the AA Filter removed you get amazingly blazingly scalpel sharp pictures.

Radio


For $275 I'll glady remove the AA filter from your D7100 :wink:

It doesn't have one in the first place, which, at least in theory, would give the D7100 an advantage in IQ over the D5200 even with the same sensor. I haven't done my own testing, so read the reviews if that's something that might sway your purchase choice.
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Aug 20, 2013 12:58:27   #
Trudy wrote:
......


3. TO STORE THIS INFO. Go to menu > set-up menu > save user settings > choose U1 or U2 and > SAVE SETTINGS.

To use the U setting simply turn dial to whichever U1 or U2 you have chosen.....



Trudy has outlined the process very well.

I'd like to add that BEFORE you save your settings either U1 or U2, make sure you are in the appropriate exposure mode (e.g. Aperture Priority or Manual, not Shutter Priority. You will want your HDR shots to have the same aperture and vary the shutter speed for consistent DOF.) The D7000 won't let you switch between these modes once you are in U1 or U2 -- it only lets you use whatever mode was saved previously. It's a strange limitation, since you can temporarily override many of the other settings in the User modes, and it will still remember your original saved settings when you return to that User mode later.
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Aug 4, 2013 00:50:21   #
TedPaul wrote:
with those on the market today, what would you consider a good way to go. I have considered a zoom kit lens with which ever way I do go. I have a feeling you have more knowledge and experience than I. I have owned an R8--M8 and that is it. I thin k I would probably not want to use leica all the time although with the M8 i pretty well kept the 50mm on most of the time. Thanks


I'm sure we've officially hijacked this thread by now. Sorry to the OP, but in the spirit of all good discussions, side bars are a good thing :) TedPaul, feel free to PM me or start a new thread so we don't stray too far from the original post. I'm not sure how to answer you exactly. I have the zoom kit lens with my NEX 5n, but I never have used it. I bought it with the sole intention of using my old manual focus lenses, and I've really enjoyed it. However, I have a (relatively) full set of autofocus prime and zooms for my DSLR, so I only use the NEX setup when I want to slow down and use primes and manual focus in a small package. You're changing crop factors from the old M8 to the M, so I don't know if you'll still prefer to keep your 50mm most of the time or not. As always, it depends on what you want to shoot, please elaborate. On my 5n, I typically use a 24, 28, or 35mm, which, with the 1.5x crop gives me a slightly wide to normal angle of view. The 50/1.4 Topcon lens is absolutely brilliant, but I find it's a little long for general use with the the APS-C sensor. The Zeiss 20mm I have is nice, too, but quite large to carry in the pocket for casual street shooting.

Overall, there are tons of variables to your question, so it's hard for me to say much else without further input.
cheers!
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Aug 2, 2013 18:40:09   #
TedPaul wrote:
CSI Dave,I have M lens 35, 50 and 90 my Rs are 50,135, 28/70 and a very long fixed 8-500. Whatever I buyI may keep as a back up.


Nice collection of glass. I'd be anxious to get the M body, too!
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Aug 2, 2013 18:37:10   #
TedPaul wrote:
CSI Dave Thank you for your time and input. I have checked into a Fuji, Olympus as well as the 5n. The 5n seems to make sense with an EVF. Thanks again. Wonder when I will see the M


Had I been looking now, I would have checked out the Fuji and Oly, too. At the time I got the 5n there were much fewer choices out there. I do have to say that the focus peaking is very very nice to have when using manual focus lenses. I now consider it an essential feature in a compact camera. I don't recall off the top of my head if the Fuji or Olympus offer focus peaking. I do wish the NEX had a sensor-based image stabilizer, though.

Remember, the 5n EVF assessory is expensive, hangs off the camera like a wart and begs to get caught on jacket pockets and gear bags. That reason alone might make the NEX 6 a better option now.
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Aug 2, 2013 18:18:38   #
TedPaul wrote:
Do you have a suggestion as to which camera would be a good fit with my Leica M lens. I am waiting for an M240 and am W/O a camera. I have 3 M lens and 4 R's suggestions?


There are inexpensive adapters available for several of the ILC (interchangeable lens compacts, aka mirrorless) brands. I went with the Sony NEX series, primarily because the m4/3 systems have a crop factor of 2x, whereas the NEX had the APS-C sensor with a 1.5x crop. This made the "equivalent" focal length of my old lenses more usable for my tastes. The NEX 7 wasn't out yet, but that's a good option now (with an important caveat, which I'll reference toward the end). The downside of the 5n, I think, is the lack of viewfinder, so that was a mandatory added expense for me. The NEX 6 is nice because it's built in.

I use the NEX 5n with an exakta adapter, which allows me to use my old Zeiss, Topcon, Angenieux, Meyer lenses with great results. For kicks, I got a Hasselblad V-mount adapter to use the Zeiss lenses from my 500C. While it's fun to play with and gives sharp(!) results, it looks ridiculous and is impractical to carry around such a big lens with the little 5n hanging off the back :)

I don't have any M lenses, but the guys at Luminous Landscape have used M lenses with the NEX cameras with generally positive results. (That caveat has to do with the 24mp sensor of the NEX 7 and purple fringes on the corners using certain lenses). This is a good read:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/sony_nex_7_rolling_review.shtml#legacy
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Aug 2, 2013 13:41:15   #
I have done quite a lot of side-by-side test shots between my NEX 5n, Nikon D300 and D7000 with various lenses. One important factor not mentioned here yet is that the Sony tends to have more aggressive in-camera jpeg sharpening applied compared to Nikon defaults. This does give the initial impression that the NEX has sharper images sometimes. Play around with the sharpening settings in the Nikon before deciding to return it. Better yet, compare using RAW files from each camera.

Also, a comment to follow up on all of the VR discussion...
Interestingly, while doing these tests I have occasionally forgotten to switch off the VR while the camera was on the tripod, so I would turn it off and reshoot the exact same scene/setup. Even when blown up to 100% and trying to be critical, I couldn't tell the difference between "VR On" and "VR Off" shots. I suspect it might make a difference with different shutter speeds, but not the middle ranges that I was using.
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Jul 14, 2013 00:10:28   #
winterrose wrote:
Consider that just because the "coating" on a cheap filter may not appear to be immediately affected by some cockamamie cleaning method it doesn't guarantee that what is most definitely a much more sophisticated surface material of the lens will be similarly unaffected. Why not try turpentine, paint thinners or the good ol' soap and water and a big scrubbing brush and be done with it?


Excellent idea! Just make sure you get one of those high quality steel wire brushes, not some wimpy nylon one. :)
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Jul 13, 2013 20:39:13   #
bunuweld wrote:
How about lens coatings?


Good question, I'm not sure what the manufacturers say about that. If you get liquid propellant on the coating I have no idea if its difficult to clean or if it causes any damage. At least you can experiment on a cheap filter. I'm still sticking with my rocket blower, datavac blower and zeiss wipes.
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Jul 13, 2013 19:27:07   #
bunuweld wrote:
I don't for the same reason I am not using the hair dryer for the camera until I make it certain that will not cause damage of any kind. I have used both, however, to blow the dust out of my computer and keyboard. The cans of compressed air (really fluoroethane rather than air) release a powerful blast of the chemical that evaporates very quickly, but might leave a fluoride residue. How that might affect sensors or lens coatings in the long term is a worry for me although many people use the compressed "air" with no apparent problems.
I don't for the same reason I am not using the hai... (show quote)


Even the manufacturer of the compressed "air" has a warning label on the can NOT to use on camera sensors. At least on the cans I've seen.
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Jul 13, 2013 12:50:22   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
There is a very seldom contributor in the UHH Macro section with access to a research electron microscope at a Medical university. He has submitted some amazing images--but I cannot recall his name. I'll see if I can locate his last post.


It's not me, but I often use our SEM. However, my purpose is usually not to get a pretty picture, but to get elemental data from the electron microscope.
I use optical microscopes with a digital camera all the time. I should go through the pics and see if there's anything worth posting.
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Jul 13, 2013 12:39:27   #
I have a rocket and it works very well. For home use (not as portable) I've had good luck with the datavac
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
It has a powerful jet of air, way more than a hairdryer. It was recommended in shutterbug magazine, which is how I found it.
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May 3, 2013 13:16:08   #
Wahawk wrote:
So true, especially if you remove the card from the camera and use a card reader to load onto the computer! The 'fastest' and 'best' ones may not help the 'in-camera' speeds, but may greatly improve the efficiency of transfer to the PC.


I agree, but you'll need to have a USB 3.0 port and card reader to take full advantage. It cost me around $35 to upgrade to 3.0 and now the card to PC transfers are SO much faster! Highly recommended.
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